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Troubleshooting CD Players

Ok.. I'm on the RF board now.. scratch that above post. I'm assuming you are having me check the eye pattern waveform?? It's not looking normal....
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If the scope is set to .5V/div, which it looks like it is, then the laser power is ok and you need to adjust the focus offset and tracking balance (offset) You can ignore the method in the manual for now and adjust for the most stable and largest amplitude eye pattern. Leave the focus gain and tracking gain at the center of the controls' rotation.
 
After playing around with these adjustments, I was eventually able to get a fairly stable eye pattern waveform. The table of contents loads immediately now but the tracks won't play? Anything else I can check that comes to mind?
I was able to also set the PLL frequency as per manual as well.. seems like the adjustments are in the ballpark??
 
After playing around with these adjustments, I was eventually able to get a fairly stable eye pattern waveform. The table of contents loads immediately now but the tracks won't play? Anything else I can check that comes to mind?
I was able to also set the PLL frequency as per manual as well.. seems like the adjustments are in the ballpark??
Could be a problem with the sled motor or sled motor drive. Connect a scope to the sled motor and push play. If the voltage goes up but the sled doesn't move, either the motor has a bad spot or the sled is hanging up.
 
Could be a problem with the sled motor or sled motor drive. Connect a scope to the sled motor and push play. If the voltage goes up but the sled doesn't move, either the motor has a bad spot or the sled is hanging up.
It seems that these players have an issue with a sled sensing coil of some sort? The sled rides in a magnetic channel ?? I got the unit all dialed in but the problem is the sled won't track the songs. If I manually pull the sled out of home position, the TOC won't load. Too bad for this one . Thanks for the learning lessons Doc!!
 
There was a lengthy thread here while back on these players, that coil goes shorted or open. Only fix is to rewind the coil for the linear sled motor. Apparently it can be done successfully, but is quite the undertaking.
 
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It seems that these players have an issue with a sled sensing coil of some sort? The sled rides in a magnetic channel ?? I got the unit all dialed in but the problem is the sled won't track the songs. If I manually pull the sled out of home position, the TOC won't load. Too bad for this one . Thanks for the learning lessons Doc!!
Make sure the sled is free to move. Often the oil gets gummed up and the sled binds. With the power off, tilt the unit back and forth. The sled should just scoot along by itself. If not, you must remove the machined post that the sled slides on, clean it off with alcohol, clean the bearing on the sled / laser with alcohol, reassemble and apply a few drops of light machine oil on the post on either side of the sled, then move the sled back and forth to spread the oil. Dupont Multipurpose Lubricant With Teflon is wonderful. https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflo...text&ref_=fplfs&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&gQT=1&th=1
 
Make sure the sled is free to move. Often the oil gets gummed up and the sled binds. With the power off, tilt the unit back and forth. The sled should just scoot along by itself. If not, you must remove the machined post that the sled slides on, clean it off with alcohol, clean the bearing on the sled / laser with alcohol, reassemble and apply a few drops of light machine oil on the post on either side of the sled, then move the sled back and forth to spread the oil. Dupont Multipurpose Lubricant With Teflon is wonderful. https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflo...text&ref_=fplfs&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&gQT=1&th=1
The mech moves almost friction free. Thanks for the advice but I gotta shelf that one me thinks.
 
General question for the hive mind here:

I’m considering picking up a Studer CD player and was curious if the full necessary recap would require re-calibration of laser power etc which I cannot do.
 
General question for the hive mind here:

I’m considering picking up a Studer CD player and was curious if the full necessary recap would require re-calibration of laser power etc which I cannot do.
A recap is unlikely to put it out of calibration. You don't have to replace all the caps, just Frako and Rifa. You should research and see if spare lasers are available.
 
Thanks.

It’s a Philips CDM2 so reasonably popular. At least parts can be found anyway. That’s a big part of me even considering it.
 
Thanks.

It’s a Philips CDM2 so reasonably popular. At least parts can be found anyway. That’s a big part of me even considering it.
There are no lasers available for a CDM2 and you would have to replace the entire CDM unit. That's the way it always was and there are none. If you manage to find spare CDM units that are good, buy at least one.
 
True- located an early Magnavox player with a CDM2 and a TDA1541 working donor. Less than a loose CDM2 as they weren’t popular… (made in Belgium so it’s a Philips contract build)

I’ve learned not to invest in cool stuff I can’t repair (finally).
 
Hi all I got a weird problem with my CDP-C8ESD. It's been doing this for ages and it's annoyed me so much I switched to a different player (a CDP-302), but now that one's gone wonky as well and is much worse off than this one. I've included a link to a video showing the problem:

Any help would be appreciated! I've been looking for another instance of this for ages and haven't found this exact problem.

Editing cause it's probably good to know what I've tried so far.

I've disassembled nearly the entire thing to inspect for cracked solder joints as this is a super common problem I see, and I wasn't able to find any. I am not sure where I should be looking though, so it is possible I could have glanced over some broken ones.

I found one odd thing: there was a screw that had been removed from a labeled hole and put into a non labeled one. This likely means someone who owned this before me also opened it up and didn't pay attention to Sony's markings. I suppose it's possible that this was a factory error, but I feel like this is unlikely. I replaced the screw to its marked position and this did not fix the problem.

I noticed that the plastic gears underneath the bottom panel that drive the tray have a toothed belt. This belt is quite loose, but it still seems to drive the gears just fine, albeit with a bit of slack. This seems to me like it could be what I'm looking for, but I didn't want to do anything drastic like boiling it before I asked around.
 
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Hi all I got a weird problem with my CDP-C8ESD. It's been doing this for ages and it's annoyed me so much I switched to a different player (a CDP-302), but now that one's gone wonky as well and is much worse off than this one. I've included a link to a video showing the problem:

Any help would be appreciated! I've been looking for another instance of this for ages and haven't found this exact problem.

Editing cause it's probably good to know what I've tried so far.

I've disassembled nearly the entire thing to inspect for cracked solder joints as this is a super common problem I see, and I wasn't able to find any. I am not sure where I should be looking though, so it is possible I could have glanced over some broken ones.

I found one odd thing: there was a screw that had been removed from a labeled hole and put into a non labeled one. This likely means someone who owned this before me also opened it up and didn't pay attention to Sony's markings. I suppose it's possible that this was a factory error, but I feel like this is unlikely. I replaced the screw to its marked position and this did not fix the problem.

I noticed that the plastic gears underneath the bottom panel that drive the tray have a toothed belt. This belt is quite loose, but it still seems to drive the gears just fine, albeit with a bit of slack. This seems to me like it could be what I'm looking for, but I didn't want to do anything drastic like boiling it before I asked around.
You have to think about what it's trying to do. It looks like it is having trouble finding the CD position. First find the sensor that detects the CD positions in the circular tray. Maybe there is a clump of dust that is blocking it. If not, look at the signal coming from the sensor on a scope. It should be a clean square wave with no noise on it. On a CDP-C5 I worked on, there was a cap on the line from the sensor and Sony put in a cap that was the wrong value; a factor of 10 too low, so the noise wasn't getting filtered out and it did the same thing as yours.
 
You have to think about what it's trying to do. It looks like it is having trouble finding the CD position. First find the sensor that detects the CD positions in the circular tray. Maybe there is a clump of dust that is blocking it. If not, look at the signal coming from the sensor on a scope. It should be a clean square wave with no noise on it. On a CDP-C5 I worked on, there was a cap on the line from the sensor and Sony put in a cap that was the wrong value; a factor of 10 too low, so the noise wasn't getting filtered out and it did the same thing as yours.
Alright, few days later and I'm pretty sure I've fixed it! I found the sensor you were talking about under the turntable. I don't own an oscilloscope (yet), so I refrained from digging further in and decided to just give the sensor a really good cleaning. This is usually the first thing I'd do, but I figured it would be a mechanical / alignment problem so I just didn't before. Put it back together and stress tested it 100 times, didn't mess up once! It's been back in my hi-fi setup since and has been working perfectly. Thanks!
 
Moderator, please make this a sticky. I am tired of repeating this info in multiple posts so I want to make a memory dump in one place.
1. CD won't play:
Observe the mechanism with no disc loaded and the cover off (don't look directly at the lens!) When the player starts, the first thing the micro does is make sure the drawer is loaded and the mechanism has risen up to the play position. Then it will reverse the sled motor until the home position switch closes, then it moves the pickup forward a bit until the switch opens. (If the pickup doesn't move at all, the CD mechanism may not be in the fully loaded position, or there may be a problem with the sled drive or motor. Check the loading belts.) There is a switch that tells the micro that the pickup is in the home position so it can stop the motor and keep the pickup from jamming. If the switch gets dirty the micro keeps the motor on in reverse and the pickup won't move. With no CD in the player, turn the player on and watch the laser pickup (don't look directly at the lens!) If the pickup moves toward the disc motor then moves back, the switch is ok. If the pickup moves toward the disc motor and doesn't move back, the switch is dirty and doesn't close. On Sony based players, the home switch is a leaf switch located on the board that the disc motor is on. There is a plastic cover on the end of the leaf switch. Note what position it is installed in, and gently pull the cover off. Then clean the contacts by drawing 600 grit sandpaper through them just a couple of times. Then flush the debris out with contact cleaner or alcohol and gently replace the plastic cover. Depending on the construction of the mechanism, you may have to remove the disc motor board in order to get to the switch.
After the player correctly senses the home postion, the focus search starts and the laser pickup lens moves up and down. If the lens doesn't move after the pickup finds home, either the pickup is bad or the cable for the pickup is broken, or the drive IC is bad, or there is a power supply problem. Some players have IC protectors that look like transistors with only 2 leads. They go open.
If focus search starts, load a CD. If the disc spins, focus search was successful and the player achieved focus lock. The pickup may be good. If the table of contents is displayed but the player doesn't play, the pickup is either bad or the internal adjustments must be performed. A scope is necessary for this. If you have a scope and can see the RF waveform, it should be 1.2V - 1.5V peak to peak, on a player with a Sony chipset and many others as well. Use a commercially recorded CD, preferably an older issue, because newer issues can have lower reflectivity. If the RF waveform is lower than 1V peak to peak, the pickup is probably bad. Do the adjustments and if the waveform doesn't improve, the pickup is bad. Panasonic / Technics players have lower amplitude on the RF waveform, I think it's 1V peak to peak. Not sure about Philips players, I think they are 1.2 - 1.5V.
If the CD doesn't spin, the pickup could be bad or the disk motor, or disc motor drive could be bad. If the player does focus search and the disc doesn't spin and you hear a sizzling sound, the disk motor is bad. Try giving it a turn with your finger, it may start turning. If you replace the disc motor, the disk table height is critical. Measure the height before you replace the motor. You can use a ruler or calipers or feeler gauges. A good trick is to find something, a piece of wood cut to the same dimension, a nut, several feeler gauges; that fits under the disk table and you can use that as a gig to remount the disk table on the new motor, shoving the table down until it hits your gauge. The disk table must be glued to the motor shaft with a drop of superglue.

2. Skipping CDs:
There are several causes of skipping CDs. The most common is the top bearing of the disk motor is dried up and a couple of drops of light weight machine oil will cure it.
The second most common cause of skipping is the suspension of the CD mechanism is sagging and the CD chuck that holds the CD in place is rubbing on the arm that supports the chuck. This is cured by stretching the springs on the mechanism by the length of one turn. You must be sure to return each spring to the same position on the mechanism, because they are different tensions to account for the weight of the motors. If the player uses rubber bumpers instead of springs you can either replace them, replace them with springs if you can find some, or install washers under the bumpers to bolster them up.
On Sony 5 disc players that are sensitive to vibrations, open the top and insert a CD. Observe the chucking arm and magnetic chuck. On some Sony players the plastic chassis warps over time and the magnet is no longer centered in the chucking arm and rubs against the inside edge of the hole it rides in. If it appears not to be centered, push on the arm, from the front, sides and back to determine which edge the chuck is scraping on. You will be able to hear it scrape. If it does, remove the chucking arm. There is a screw in the back of the arm that adjusts the height of the arm and secures it, along with a spring. Remove the chuck from the arm by twisting the 2 halves until the plastic tabs line up with the openings. Now that the chuck is free, file or cut the hole in the arm on the side that it rubs, to enlarge the hole by about 1/8". Don't overdo it or the chuck will fall through.
Remove all burrs and plastic shavings and re-assemble the chuck and install the arm in the player. Adjust the height of the arm so that the chuck floats in the arm with equal parts above and below the arm. The improper height of the arm is another cause of skipping.
If the chuck is not off center, is it riding too low in the arm and scraping on the arm? If so, adjust the height of the arm if it is adjustable on this model.
Sometimes the machined posts that the laser slides on need to be cleaned and re-lubricated, especially if the owner had pets. Clean them thoroughly with alcohol and then apply 2 drops of light weight machine oil to each post on either side of the laser.
Clean the lens. Use a Q tip moistened with ethanol (NOT Isopropyl alcohol, it can cloud plastic!), distilled water or Kodak Lens Cleaner.

3. Drawer won't open / stay closed:
Replace the loading belts.

This covers most of the problems found in CD players.

Well done! :trebon:

This should be a "sticky".


Q
 
Experts,

Have a peculiar problem with this Krell KPS 28C player. It seems to have the Teac VRDS transport (not sure which model). After doing the belt and lubrication, the laser sled moves but stops just outside of CD diameter and does the focus search. When a disc is inserted, the sled advances from its rest position about 1cm. As the laser cannot 'see' the disc from there, it shuts down and resets. If the sled is nudged so that it can see the disc before the reset, it advances in 1cm steps until it finds the TOC, and is fine from there on. If the power is turned off and on before the reset, the laser advances 1cm each time. It appears that the initial 1cm step should be more than 2cm, so that the laser can see the disc and seek the TOC, but I don't know what governs this movement. When manually push the laser towards middle of the CD, the disc spins and reads TOC. It also plays from 1st track to last track. I have lubricated the sled and all the associated gears. The laser freely moves when the unit is in off. When its off there is some resistence to it. Will post a pic later in the evening.
 
Experts,

Have a peculiar problem with this Krell KPS 28C player. It seems to have the Teac VRDS transport (not sure which model). After doing the belt and lubrication, the laser sled moves but stops just outside of CD diameter and does the focus search. When a disc is inserted, the sled advances from its rest position about 1cm. As the laser cannot 'see' the disc from there, it shuts down and resets. If the sled is nudged so that it can see the disc before the reset, it advances in 1cm steps until it finds the TOC, and is fine from there on. If the power is turned off and on before the reset, the laser advances 1cm each time. It appears that the initial 1cm step should be more than 2cm, so that the laser can see the disc and seek the TOC, but I don't know what governs this movement. When manually push the laser towards middle of the CD, the disc spins and reads TOC. It also plays from 1st track to last track. I have lubricated the sled and all the associated gears. The laser freely moves when the unit is in off. When its off there is some resistence to it. Will post a pic later in the evening.
There should be a switch to detect the home position. Every player except the Philips swing arm players have something to detect the home position.
 
Thank you dr.audio. I noticed a place where I think during handling a piece might have come off and can’t find it. But seems this is some kind of switch. I tried taking it out and manually engaging it but no effect. Could this be the switch. It’s the lower end of the pic IMG_5439.jpeg
 
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