Unknown subwoofer

[Sunil Paul]

Hello all,
I won a subwoofer at GW for $14.99. I am attaching the pictures. I cannot make out the make and model of it. Do anyone here seen or heard of these subs? Is it custom-made?

 

[swechsler]

Could be custom, hard to tell without better pictures. The amp does appear to be of reasonable quality with the built in EQ. The labeling of the power input as "AC MAINS" suggests UK/European manufacture, or at least design.

If nobody else recognizes it, once you receive it you can post some better pics, and possibly pull the woofer to get a picture of the magnet and the inside of the cabinet, that would probably give us more to go on.

 

[crazy-in-az]

That is a Dayton subwoofer driver and plate amp. Looks like someone either built the cabinet themselves, or cannibalized another cabinet. As long as that particular driver is designed to work in a sealed cabinet it should be pretty good.

 

[swechsler]

That is a Dayton subwoofer driver and plate amp.

Nicely done. Looks like an earlier version of the SPA500 (note the lack of heat sink on the OP's).

 

[Sunil Paul]

Thank you @crazy-in-az and @swechsler. Once I pick it up, I will open it up and attach more pictures. The amp plate definitely looks like Dayton.

 

[goodolpg]

The cabinets butt joint construction indicates it may be a DIY build.

 

[Sunil Paul]

I picked up the subwoofer yesterday and opened it today. This is what I see inside. The amp is from Parts-Express.

 

[crazy-in-az]

Now THAT'S a woofer!

 

[swechsler]

If you're lucky, the enclosure size was that recommended by Dayton. You didn't mention the woofer size, but it looks like it could be a 12", which would make it model T1203 (T1003 for 10" and T1503 for 15"). Dayton Audio doesn't appear to have any documentation for old models on their website, and Parts Express no longer carries it, but there's a phone number and an email address on Dayton's support page. You could ask them to email you any docs they have for that woofer and amp, then you can see if the enclosure was properly designed.

 

[tarior]

That's a pretty nice deal for $15.

 

[Sunil Paul]

@swechsler it is 12" and the cabinet is about 2 cubic feet. I have contacted Dayton folks. Thank you again for the guidance.

 

[swechsler]

After you get the documentation, you may want to model it with some speaker design software. In fact, now that I think of it, it's possible that the driver is already in there. Download WinISD and take a look. The Titanic 4, which is still on the PE website, has a recommended sealed enclosure volume of 1 cu ft (for a 3dB down point [f3] of 49hz) or 2.73 cu ft for a vented cabinet with an F3 of 25 hz. I know you have the Titanic III so the parameters may not be comparable.

 

[Sunil Paul]

I believe Dayton was selling a subwoofer system kit using this driver. It used a 2 cubic feet enclosure. But once I receive it (if I receive it), I will take a look at the WinISD and see what is recommended enclosure size.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dayton-Aud...bwoofer-System-Maple-New-in-Box-/293054768694

One other question. The enclosure had a grill cover but it is missing. Now there are 4 fairly large holes, which are through and through holes, where the grill cover pins were. I was thinking of using Flex seal liquid rubber to seal the holes. Any thoughts and recommendations?

 

[opnly bafld]

@Sunil Paul

https://speakerboxlite.com/subwoofers/dayton-audio-titanic-mk-iii-tit320c-4-/specifications

Specs avsforum
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwj8j9WPtrHvAhXKZc0KHdDGCukQFjADegQIDRAD&url=https://www.avsforum.com/attachments/295-404-dayton-audio-tit320c-4-specifications-46167-pdf.2353630/&usg=AOvVaw3xUSIxEW1lZuXYg4b2s1Yf

The kit box was @ 2 cu ft (17" cube).

 

[swechsler]

One other question. The enclosure had a grill cover but it is missing. Now there are 4 fairly large holes, which are through and through holes, where the grill cover pins were. I was thinking of using Flex seal liquid rubber to seal the holes. Any thoughts and recommendations?

I've never used Flex Seal, but if it will give a reliable airtight seal then it should be fine. You could probably also use silicone caulk, epoxy or wood filler.

Actually, if they're particularly large, it might be better to cut a correctly size dowel to length and insert that into the holes, then fill the remaining space with glue.

Whatever you use, be advised that a woofer like this can generate a decent amount of pressure inside the cabinet, so ensure that it's secure.

 

[Sunil Paul]

Finally, I completed the work on the subwoofer. I used DAP Drydex plastic wood to seal the holes and covered the front with black lamination. I hooked it up to my setup and it sounds beautiful. This thing can really shake the wall of my basement. Thank you all for your valuable advice and recommendations. This is a great community!