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VPI Turntable Owners Thread

So I've had this now for about 4 months and I'm very happy with my decision. IMO the Scoutmaster model hits a home run. It also had the features I preferred and was looking for in a BD.

With the Periphery Ring and HRX weight it's a dense 55 lb. beast with a reasonable footprint. Take the time to set it up perfectly then isolate it well and you will be rewarded. I'm using it with VPI's JMW tonearm cables and the cover is a Gingko. Not much to maintain on these, could last forever...


Two points to keep an eye on from a long time VPI owner.
1) Keep the inverted spindle bearing lubed with white lithium grease or similar. I'd suggest every 6 months. Once the grease moves away from the ball/thrust plate interface, you are drilling into the thrust surface. Neither the ball nor the thrust plate are easily serviceable by the owner although the ball CAN be replaced with effort.
2) The spike on the tonearm pivot can get blunted or bent over slightly. Do not lube this! Just make sure it remains sharp and straight.

Great table!
 
Two points to keep an eye on from a long time VPI owner.
1) Keep the inverted spindle bearing lubed with white lithium grease or similar. I'd suggest every 6 months. Once the grease moves away from the ball/thrust plate interface, you are drilling into the thrust surface. Neither the ball nor the thrust plate are easily serviceable by the owner although the ball CAN be replaced with effort.
2) The spike on the tonearm pivot can get blunted or bent over slightly. Do not lube this! Just make sure it remains sharp and straight.

Great table!

Excellent points.

Yes, I went over everything on this table very, very carefully, cleaned spike (and female contact point) and its sharp to the tip (no bend or hook curl under magnification), excellent continuity with DMM, massive bearing and ball is in perfect shape and has been well lubed. I also removed the delrin pulley to properly oil the spindle on the Hurst motor. I even boiled the belt like Harry recommends but I also bought a new one.
 
Never heard of this before. What's it about and what is the process? Just boiling in water I assume but for how long, etc?
Thanks,
John

Drop the belt into boiling water for 15 seconds. Remove and let cool, wipe with alcohol and you're good to go. Remember to check and re-adjust your speed after installing the boiled (refreshed) belt. Use of talc afterwards is optional to prevent squeal on startup.
 
That dusting with pure talc also introduces the proper amount of belt slippage. Otherwise you run the risk of the causing your speed to possibly hunt when there is no slippage. This Info was posted by MarcMorin several years ago IIRC.
 
Question 1: I have an ARIES 1 VPI table with the JMW 10" tonearm. The tonearm needs to be rewired if I decide to keep using it - the short wire from the unipivot head to the junction box has become unbraided and brittle. Any recommended technicians in the US that do this?

Question 2: If I decide to explore using a new arm - can I go with a JMW 12" (without redoing the mounting hole)? (what arms fit that table?)

Thanks!

1549925-61c44216b16991d2b673d6def7c548eb.jpg
 
Really thrilled with my VPI Prime Scout after 8 months. I tore it apart tonight to do some adjustments for my new Hana ML Cart. I needed to level the tonearm and have it clear the Tru-Lift tonearm lifter--wanted everything at the proper heights and alignments. Love how easy it is to make adjustments with a couple of allen wrenches and a small phillips screwdriver. Great sounding deck. My Hana needs a 92º VTA. It's quiet and punchy, but flatten it out to 90º and it starts to pick up clicks, pops, and looses all of its mojo. It also likes the bare aluminum platter.

S1.jpg IMG_4343.jpg
 
So I decided to have the bearing on my Scoutmaster replaced even though the 'table was in pristine condition when I purchased it. Since I didn't know the bearing history, I wanted to have my own starting point so that I could lube it periodically and monitor wear. I also wanted to be sure I was getting everything this table was designed to give.

Turns out that Harry W. was there when I arrived and he personally took it upon himself to look at and work on my Scoutmaster (!!!) , he not only installed a new bearing and complete shaft (apparently that's easier than just replacing the ball) but he also included an upgrade from the Signature line, the massive bearing base under the plinth (since they share the same bearing anyway). The base (or bell) definitely added several pounds to the plinth and IMO works really well, both functionally and visually, with this 'table.

Harry also told me something that I wasn't aware of, apparently the Scoutmaster was one of Harry Pearson's (The Absolute Sound) favorite turntables. I got the impression that it was one of Harry W's favorites too- after all, it was one of his designs. He said Pearson had this model in his home along side a Clearaudio (I didn't ask what model) but the Scoutmaster got more playtime. Spoken like a proud father.

Had a great time with Harry, he's a great guy and very enthusiastic about this hobby.

This is the kind of company you want to do business with.

More to come...

Scoutmaster with the Signature bearing bell visible below plinth.
gR64ktU.jpg


l2jTmYl.jpg
 
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So I decided to have the bearing on my Scoutmaster replaced even though the 'table was in pristine condition when I purchased it. Since I didn't know the bearing history, I wanted to have my own starting point so that I could lube it periodically and monitor wear. I also wanted to be sure I was getting everything this table was designed to give.

Turns out that Harry W. was there when I arrived and he personally took it upon himself to look at and work on my Scoutmaster (!!!) , he not only installed a new bearing and complete shaft (apparently that's easier than just replacing the ball) but he also included an upgrade from the Signature line, the massive bearing base under the plinth (since they share the same bearing anyway). The base definitely added several pounds to the plinth and IMO works really well, both functionally and visually, with this 'table.

Harry also told me something that I wasn't aware of, apparently the Scoutmaster was one of Harry Pearson's (The Absolute Sound) favorite turntables. I got the impression that it was one of Harry W's favorites too- after all, it was one of his designs. He said Pearson had this model in his home along side a Clearaudio (I didn't ask what model) but the Scoutmaster got more playtime. Spoken like a proud father.

Had a great time with Harry, he's a great guy and very enthusiastic about this hobby.

This is the kind of company you want to do business with.

More to come...

Scoutmaster with the Signature bearing assembly visible below plinth.
gR64ktU.jpg


l2jTmYl.jpg
That is the coolest thing I've seen all week. I love it when companies take a personal interest in their customers and go the extra mile.Very cool. Thanks for sharing all of that! Sweet turntable!
 
I decided to purchase an extra tonearm for my Prime Scout. Since I already have a JMW 9 3D printed arm, I ordered a JMW 9 metal arm. Word is that they are phasing these out, so they may be difficult to come by in the future. At about half the price of the 3D arm, it will make a perfect wand for my mono carts and I can move the deck that I am using for mono back into the home theater room with the Ortofon 2m Blue mounted.

JMW9.jpg
 
So I decided to have the bearing on my Scoutmaster replaced even though the 'table was in pristine condition when I purchased it. Since I didn't know the bearing history, I wanted to have my own starting point so that I could lube it periodically and monitor wear. I also wanted to be sure I was getting everything this table was designed to give.

Turns out that Harry W. was there when I arrived and he personally took it upon himself to look at and work on my Scoutmaster (!!!) , he not only installed a new bearing and complete shaft (apparently that's easier than just replacing the ball) but he also included an upgrade from the Signature line, the massive bearing base under the plinth (since they share the same bearing anyway). The base (or bell) definitely added several pounds to the plinth and IMO works really well, both functionally and visually, with this 'table.

Harry also told me something that I wasn't aware of, apparently the Scoutmaster was one of Harry Pearson's (The Absolute Sound) favorite turntables. I got the impression that it was one of Harry W's favorites too- after all, it was one of his designs. He said Pearson had this model in his home along side a Clearaudio (I didn't ask what model) but the Scoutmaster got more playtime. Spoken like a proud father.

Had a great time with Harry, he's a great guy and very enthusiastic about this hobby.

This is the kind of company you want to do business with.

More to come...

Great timing because he is only there a few days a week since retiring. He really enjoys helping out customers, as I've also benefited from his help.

He also loves wine, so if he went out of his way to hook you up, send him a nice red!
 
Great timing because he is only there a few days a week since retiring. He really enjoys helping out customers, as I've also benefited from his help.

He also loves wine, so if he went out of his way to hook you up, send him a nice red!

I just realized that I didn't mention that Mat was also there so all I needed was Fremer to be there too and I would have hit the trifecta of east coast analog timing!

Both Mat & Harry are very hospitable, Mat even followed up with me afterwards.
 
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Since the Prime Signature is a somewhat recent model and most reviews only mention the bearing bell but never highlight the underside of VPI plinths, I thought I'd post this picture showing the scale between the Signature bearing bell nut (left) and the Prime sized bearing bell nut (right) from the Scoutmaster (pretty sure this one is Delrin). I've seen black round bearing bell nuts as well as silver metal hex nuts on the regular Prime but from what I can tell both are approximately the same size as the black one in my picture.

If you look at the reflection below the plinth in the first picture you can see that the Signature bell is a solid stainless steel mass with a small opening in the center for the screw. I have no idea what the bell weighs but it is massive compared to the Signature/HRX record weight which itself weighs a whopping (for a record weight) 1.8lbs so you can only imagine what the bearing bell weighs. Next time I move the 'table I will weigh it to see what the total weight is to determine what the approximate weight of the Signature bell is.



In the picture below it's easier to see the scale between the 1.8lb record weight and the Signature bearing bell below.



I posted this because these are the types of details I like to look for and learn about when comparing items/models. Hope it helps someone down the road.
 
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Since the Prime Signature is a somewhat recent model and most reviews only mention the bearing bell but never highlight the underside of VPI plinths, I thought I'd post this picture showing the scale between the Signature bearing bell nut (left) and the Prime sized bearing bell nut (right) from the Scoutmaster (pretty sure this one is Delrin). I've seen black round bearing bell nuts as well as silver metal hex nuts on the regular Prime but from what I can tell both are approximately the same size as the black one in my picture.

That would go nicely with the HW40 feet.
 
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