Who here on AK is using 3D printed parts?

[Cubdriver]

I like to use TPU for feet - printed these for a Kenwood KR-8010. They need to be attached with screws, but are nice and solid while still being slightly resilient.

I've also done some for HP and Kepco power supplies, and gumdrop-shaped ones that can have the hexagonal inserts used on the older Tektronix 400-series scopes pressed into them to duplicate the feet that decades later have often dried out and crumbled off.

-Pat

 

[mrehorst]

Thanks for mentioning that. I had no idea. At work we recently switched from a printer that only printed ABS to a Prusa XL that has 5 heads and prints everything. I've been using PLA for nearly all our projects. I'll have to switch to PETG for our production parts.

PLA will melt if you leave it in your car (or you're shipping parts and the truck stops in the sun for a while). Old PLA filament sometimes shatters on the spool due to embrittlement. The same thing happens to the prints.

ABS is good stuff, but a lot of people don't like the smell when its printing. PETG has no odor when it prints.

 

[Mangler]

The newer pla 2.0+ seems to be better. ASA is slightly more friendly to print than ABS and has the added benefit of UV resistance. Petg seems to have layer issues the smaller you go print wise but otherwise is great. But Im also a newbie and don't know a whole bunch about printing.

 

[cq.ab0nf]

Has anybody here printed alignment tools?

 

[mrehorst]

Has anybody here printed alignment tools?

You might be able to do it printing them laying down on the print bed, but alignment tools are usually pretty cheap, so not worth the time/trouble to draw them in CAD and then print them. I think a lot of those tools are injection molded using glass filled nylon or abs for durability. You can get glass filled filaments for 3D printers, but the prints probably won't be as strong as molded parts. You don't need huge strength for the tool, except at the edge where the tool goes into whatever you're trying to adjust. You might have to print, then shape the edges as you need them because of the limited resolution of 3D prints.

 

[fromnowon]

I have a Pioneer SX-680 that came with missing snap-in feet. I was able to print these replacements that are almost identical to the originals. The should also work on SX-580, SX-780, and SX-880. Took measurements of the one that I have, built it into a CAD program, exported it as 3MF, and Orca took it from there.

I used generic PLA. Is that the best? Beats me. But it worked well. Once they print, all you need are pads.

Left is original, right is new.

Attached the zipped 3MF file for those who are interested.

Cool. Those look like Yamaha feet too, RX-300U/500U/700U and the tuners, for example. Maybe they are the same size.

 

[ConradH]

I got some metric nut drivers and they didn't come with any sort of roll-up pouch like my old SAE ones, so I just made this holder. It's not pretty but it was fast-