Nice work
Who here on AK is using 3D printed parts?
- Thread starter dlucy
- Start date
Take a look at onshape.com, It will take you a couple of days/weeks depending on how much time you commit to it, but you will be able to make your own files. The feeling is far better when you create the entire thing from just an original item and a caliper. Onshape is free fully functional and online so any device with a decent sized screen and good mouse will work. The caveat to the free is anyone with an account can search and find your models and use them effectively open source for onshape users.. But for what I do it doesn't matter. I have never bothered to search for something someone else did, it is faster to just make it myself! Please try it, you will be very happy if you put the time in to learn enough to make the things you need.
No, but I made something similar that worked well for me. I printed cups that retained Sorbothane balls and used those for the feet. Sorbothane is a viscoelastic material that's very effective at vibration isolation and damping—it absorbs mechanical vibration and dissipates much of that energy rather than simply transferring it back into the turntable. The setup worked very well for me.
mrehorst
Super Member
I very rarely use other people's designs to print. It has been my experience that few people design things the way I like or with the accuracy I require. You may search for and find the exact thing you're looking for but there's probably only about a 10% chance it will actually be fit for your purpose. The sites where people post designs are loaded with models that are often unprintable or just useless, and are intended primarily for the "designer" to be able to claim he has 1000 designs posted.
If you have a 3D printer, get a caliper and learn to use CAD. Otherwise your printer is going to do nothing but print tugboats and starwars junk, and will soon end up at your next garage sale. Don't use sketchup. It's for architecture and landscaping, not 3D printing. If you want easy to learn and use CAD, try DesignSpark Mechanical. The free version will do 99% of what you'll ever need to make functional parts.
It is not uncommon to go through a few iterations of a design before you get it just right. If you are going to post your designs, post the final one that actually serves its purpose, not the first couple that still need to be tweaked.
I got my 3d printer and hated it because it was a creality mess. After maybe close to 50 or so hours of work to get it right, I loved it. For about 3 days. Then I realized I was stuck printing stuff from printables. Then I put myself through about a 4 month Onshape crash course about 5-10 hours a day for for 4 months. Then I loved my 3d printer again. Next is a plasma table.
One project so far. I opened up these Monolith M-1060C closed back headphones. The fazors were from thingiverse and printed at the HB Public Library’s Makerspace. I also sewed the double thickness leather headband there. The 3D printed grills came from Etsy. Fun stuff.
Just starting playing with epoxy resin a week or so ago, some 3d printed stuff got the treatment (the thorens pic, the exact same print, one covered with a red dyed resin) - this stuff is crazy cool and fun to play with. Still learning how to work with it a bit but already the results are sweet.
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mrehorst
Super Member
Interesting! What does converting from closed to open back do to the frequency response of the headphones?
Good question, but I don’t know. These headphones were highly reverse-engineered Audeze LCD-2 closed back clones for roughly 1/2 price at release. Very successful by all accounts in the headphone community. So after a few years I decided to get the Audeze LCD-XC’s, but liked the LCD-2 closed backs better and for more savings than I paid for the Monoprice clones. I just followed the community following Audeze’s later addition of “fazors” on the ear side. The “fuzzor” red felt is meant to damp reflected back wave from the grills. Cheep, reversible, lighter, and a different flavor of planar driver to enjoy.