No, but I made something similar that worked well for me. I printed cups that retained Sorbothane balls and used those for the feet. Sorbothane is a viscoelastic material that's very effective at vibration isolation and damping—it absorbs mechanical vibration and dissipates much of that energy rather than simply transferring it back into the turntable. The setup worked very well for me.
I very rarely use other people's designs to print. It has been my experience that few people design things the way I like or with the accuracy I require. You may search for and find the exact thing you're looking for but there's probably only about a 10% chance it will actually be fit for your purpose. The sites where people post designs are loaded with models that are often unprintable or just useless, and are intended primarily for the "designer" to be able to claim he has 1000 designs posted.
I got my 3d printer and hated it because it was a creality mess. After maybe close to 50 or so hours of work to get it right, I loved it. For about 3 days. Then I realized I was stuck printing stuff from printables. Then I put myself through about a 4 month Onshape crash course about 5-10 hours a day for for 4 months. Then I loved my 3d printer again. Next is a plasma table.
Interesting! What does converting from closed to open back do to the frequency response of the headphones?
Good question, but I don’t know. These headphones were highly reverse-engineered Audeze LCD-2 closed back clones for roughly 1/2 price at release. Very successful by all accounts in the headphone community. So after a few years I decided to get the Audeze LCD-XC’s, but liked the LCD-2 closed backs better and for more savings than I paid for the Monoprice clones. I just followed the community following Audeze’s later addition of “fazors” on the ear side. The “fuzzor” red felt is meant to damp reflected back wave from the grills. Cheep, reversible, lighter, and a different flavor of planar driver to enjoy.
Unless you have access to a high end scanner, you won't get the detail you need. The best way to produce a part like that is to measure one with a caliper and create a CAD model in 3D.
Acrylic tends to be brittle and will crack if subjected to much mechanical force, such as tightening the screws that pass through it. In the early days of 3D printing, just after people realized that plywood was a stupid choice for printer frames, many companies started selling cheap printers with frames made from laser cut acrylic. They had a tendency to break easily and quickly and disappeared from the market after a year or so of people sh** posting about them in the internet forums.
Yes, we print some of our smaller specialized parts for production when they don't have to be metal (or pretty).
Thanks for mentioning that. I had no idea. At work we recently switched from a printer that only printed ABS to a Prusa XL that has 5 heads and prints everything. I've been using PLA for nearly all our projects. I'll have to switch to PETG for our production parts.
