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Why Recap Speakers and When?

Very interesting and informative thread. I have previously recapped and refoamed a pair of Original Advents and the sound seemed to improve over time. I had not heard them prior to recapping and refoaming so I have no comparison. Yesterday I recapped and refoamed a pair of New Large Advents, again not having heard them prior (bought 2 pair Original and 1 pair New Large Advents with shredded surrounds). I know that surrounds need a break in period in order to become pliable but I didn't think caps did. From what I've read on break in periods for caps there is an argument on both sides. Because I did recapping and refoaming at the same time I won't be able to tell from where any improvement comes.
 
Hi Starrider; sorry for late reply , I have not been around AK for awhile due to work stuff.
Any suggestions on the best way to start learning and working on receivers and speakers or resources for reading material?
There is a short-list of books recommended by AK people. They range from general theory to diagnosis and repair. I am always intending to order the books, but I always forget where I parked the list. If I find it, I’ll post the info in a new thread. In the meantime, here are some suggestions:

* Use the search function for AK and troll the archives. There is a rich collection of articles and posts on all sorts of subjects in the areas of interest.

* In particular, see Echowars' “DC offset and You” thread in the vintage forum. Read the whole thing. It will take you into some interesting topics via the fundamental, variable measurements and settings that reveal the general health of an amplifier.

* The internet is well-populated with excellent primers on electronics. Many of these are adjusted to the 'electronically challenged' hobbyist like myself.
These sites may include general theory, Ohms law, identifying components, and interactive calculators. The more you search, the more endless seem the possibilities for learning and finding more interesting sites.

* Search for Elliot Sound Products. Rod Elliot in Australia has an archive of no-nonsense articles — mostly by his own hand.

* Also, there are some very interesting contributors in other online communities such as 'Audio Asylum', 'VinylEngine', 'tunerinfocenter', 'diyaudio', 'diytube' and others. The cumulative archive is very comprehensive.

* Searches will also turn up white papers that will answer specific questions for you about a wide range of topics. These are typically posted on-line by manufacturers

I hope that helps and is not so obvious as to be redundant. At least it may serve as a checklist. Of course the downside is that all this info comes piecemeal. A couple of readable books would be nice to have on the shelf. Cheers ... Lorne
 
JBL L-65a's

Hey guys, because these speakers are fairly popular, I was hoping that there was a lot of trial and error I could save myself from with cap replacement here, by way of meaning that some people here might have some fantastic recap recommendations on these speakers? My electronics knowledge is not that great, or else I would tear apart the schematic for these speakers and do more research, but I just don't have the time to learn about this the way I really want to right now.

Thanks for any input!
 
I am a new member here at AK. However, I have been a poster at Classic Speaker Pages for some time and am also a charter member there.

Seeing more than 14,000 views of this thread have been made - making it the 4th or 5th most viewed thread in the past year, I thought I'd add my 2 cents worth because it is a topic of such great interest.

With regard to recapping, some of the responses to this original post I have read refer to drifting and ESR but do not mention the problematic cap type in the text. It should not be assumed that drifting and leakage are associated with all cap types. Instead, those characteristics are most applicable to nonpolar electrolytics. If your speakers have NPE's, and are around 15 years old and up, you should seriously consider recapping. The reason: NPE's are made with a chemical called an electrolyte which is formed from a few different chemicals which degrade or can leak over time. That is the main reason for the limited life. You can consider it analogous to the typical life cycle of foam surrounds.

So, if you are ambitious and have 'elderly' speakers or, while you have that woofer removed for refoaming, you might as well check to see if your critical (series) caps are NPE's. Most speakers in the 10-30 yr old range do. If they are, then you'll be smart to replace them with film types. They are not susceptible to chemical degradation like NPE's and thus, will last MUCH longer without drifting in performance.

Two key questions arise:
1) What type of cap should I buy and what price should I pay?
2) Should they be broken in to accelerate optimum performance?

I have an 8 page study report, which, IMHO, answers those questions. I think you'll find some surprises in there. It goes well beyond anecdotal conclusions I've read time and time again in audio forums regarding what cap to buy and whether or not to break in. Instead, it takes a more scientific approach by visually and measurably characterizing the sonic signature of caps via waveform analysis using sine wave, pink noise and real music played thru a NPE, film/foil and botique film/foil cap.

Unfornately, the file size exceeds the AK limit for a .pdf file. Thus, anyone interested in a copy is welcome to contact me directly and I will gladly send a copy directly to you.
 
I agree that caps age, the time frame is similar to speaker foam for electrolytics from personal experience. We should probably consider re-capping whenever we refoam. Why not - it's not that much more work?

I do see many folks spec'ing 1% caps for replacements. All of the speakers I have opened to work on this last year (4 pairs from different MFGs) had 20% tolerance caps in there to start with. This tells me that the inductors and other components are likely 20% also?

Just going to 5% caps will be a big step in moving toward the engineers ideal values. I believe that almost all speaker electrical components have significant variance/tolerance. Does anyone have any data on overall tolerance from build to build?

It does not make sense to me to buy $10 caps for a $5 crossover (production cost)? Good poly/film caps can had for a few $$ each, or less.

EDIT - I did make an exception to my own rule - my EPI 100's. Since the entire crossover consists of exactly one cap (no component matching), I put 1% Daytons in there. If the speaker uses a multi-component crossover, I go one or two steps up from the factory spec's pieces with price in mind.
 
Greetings spkrdtr: I am a rank and file member of AK, but I speak for all of us when I say welcome to AK! I hope that you will continue to share your knowlege and experience on our forums. Here are some comments on your first post:
With regard to recapping, some of the responses to this original post I have read refer to drifting and ESR but do not mention the problematic cap type in the text. It should not be assumed that drifting and leakage are associated with all cap types. Instead, those characteristics are most applicable to non-polar electrolytics.
This is truly a salient point. And, at least according to my feeble memory, I thought that we had covered that on this thread. Perhaps I should go back and read again. Still, you are very right to bring it up because it never hurts to reinforce the point.

Next ... I admit to being out my depth here, but I will dive in and 'take a bath' if indeed I am wrong:

I don't think that the NPE's are more susceptible to degradation than their polarised cousins. However, when ANY electrolytic capacitor is used in a circuit where little or no DC is present, they are compromised in terms of their optimum performance over the course of their operational lives. Again — as I understand it — DCV is commensurate with the ongoing reformation of the electrolytic paste. The electro-chemical reaction in the bipolar capacitor is the same as it is in the polarised version. By corollory, film capacitors are better in speaker networks in a number of ways because they are suited to an environment where only a very minute amount of DC is tolerated and riding on the essential AC signal. I failed chemistry, and was barred from physics, so if somebody burns me with some contradictory science here (perhaps you, spkrdtr), then no one will be more pleased than I!
Two key questions arise:
1) What type of cap should I buy and what price should I pay?
2) Should they be broken in to accelerate optimum performance?...SNIP ...I have an 8 page study report, which, IMHO, answers those questions.
Please see my PM; thanks for your invitation. I very much want to read your report. In regards to of #2: I have asked myself about what it is that electrons in copper, silicon, vacuums and other stuff could being doing so differently after X+n hours following their first power-up excitation than they were not doing before. As a failed science student (not for lack of trying), I have been attentive to more clever and scientifically inquisitive people such as yourself. But I have to admit that I have favored the reports that more closely matched my personal, subjective experiences — another reason why I would like to read your paper. I only hope that I am competent enough to read it with a fair and critical mind.

So far in this thread, it seems be agreed that replacing electrolytic capacitors is generally a very effective way to enrich the performance of speakers that were originally built using electrolytic types. A number of members have enthusiastically reported good results. And I would like to add this in anticipation of the post that follows yours: IMHO, the type of film cap is not as important as is the basic conversion from electrolytic to film capacitors. Here in Japan, large value polypropyline caps are generally expensive, and thus I have used Mylar or the generic polyester with excellent and dramatic results. At least one well-known investigator has claimed that many so-called poly caps are in fact polyester anyway. As for which film cap sounds good-better-best blah blah: enthusiasts may engage in experimentation, debates and in some cases considerable expense in the same was as tube rolling wire/cable stringing and all other sundry tweaks and mods. There may be a differences, but for the average enthusiast who is rebuilding some speakers, the essential payoff lies in the vast differences in the engineering of the two essential types — electrolytic and film.
Cheers — lorne
 
"...I don't think that the NPE's are more susceptible to degradation than their polarised cousins. However, when ANY electrolytic capacitor is used in a circuit where little or no DC is present, they are compromised in terms of their optimum performance over the course of their operational lives. Again — as I understand it — DCV is commensurate with the ongoing reformation of the electrolytic paste. The electro-chemical reaction in the bipolar capacitor is the same as it is in the polarised version. By corollory, film capacitors are better in speaker networks in a number of ways because they are suited to an environment where only a very minute amount of DC is tolerated and riding on the essential AC signal. I failed chemistry, and was barred from physics, so if somebody burns me with some contradictory science here (perhaps you, spkrdtr), then no one will be more pleased than I! Please see my PM; thanks for your invitation. I very much want to read your report. In regards to of #2: I have asked myself about what it is that electrons in copper, silicon, vacuums and other stuff could being doing so differently after X+n hours following their first power-up excitation than they were not doing before. As a failed science student (not for lack of trying), I have been attentive to more clever and scientifically inquisitive people such as yourself. But I have to admit that I have favored the reports that more closely matched my personal, subjective experiences — another reason why I would like to read your paper. I only hope that I am competent enough to read it with a fair and critical mind" ]

Sorry Lorne for the apparent confusion. Perhaps I should have not referred to the electrolytics as NON polar. I believe this led to your paragraph above regarding polar vs non polar. I just assumed NPE's were the standard for xovers and that was the ONLY electrolytic type being considered here.
Cheers!
p.s. my apologies here. This is my first post with a quote. It may be messed up.
 
I've had a pair of KLH model 6s for a couple years now, and while they've had dead (seeming) tweeters, considering they're 45 years old and likely have all original crossover pieces internally... Yeah, this thread has told me that I need to somehow get in there and replace them... but how do i get into the cab without puncturing the woofer?
 
Advent recap question

I've had a pair of KLH model 6s for a couple years now, and while they've had dead (seeming) tweeters, considering they're 45 years old and likely have all original crossover pieces internally... Yeah, this thread has told me that I need to somehow get in there and replace them... but how do i get into the cab without puncturing the woofer?

Looks like you have an earlier pair with epoxied in woofers. Yucch!
Suggest you visit the classic speaker pages discussion area re. Advent and search Model 6's. There are many posts there regarding folk's experiences breaking into those beasts to do a recap job.
99% of the time a bad tweeter cap is the culprit.
 
I had a look, and it's apparent that i'll need professional help (for getting in), and a day that needs killing... ah well, at least they function beautifully as they are, and go well with the advent 1s I recently snagged for free.
 
Hi you guys, really interesting thread, I am new to AK, old to pro-audio. Retired pro audio designer, a lot of experience with caps, golden ear listening tests, and years of feedback to my designs in the field. I don’t usually express my opions in forums, a lot of bad experiences in the antique radio forums from a lot of lurkers just wanting to trash people trying to help, but this forum seems a lot better, I’ll give it a try. If any of you guys are from the recording industry, you would know my most successful design, the MCI JH-600 console. Or if you are into antique radios, I am sure you know me from Epay as radiosphonos. Anyways, I am old, and senile from 40 years of low level lead poisoning from solder, sinkers, and bullets, I’ll ramble, and forget in the middle what at the beginning I was decided to say in the end, and typing with two fingers is no help, this kinda talk is so much easier in person and with a white board. In no particular order, I believe I can give some of you guys a little more information to think about. Ok, electrolytics and several issues about them raised in this thread: if they are old they are not what they used to be, and by a lot. And for several reasons, this is a can of worms, yikes. Ok to understand this you need to consider the basics of capacitors in general and lytics in particular. A capacitor is simply conductors near each other, usually considered “plates” (planes) and for practical construction, parallel to each other (this is to make wanted capacitors, there are unwanted capacitors everywhere in our circuits like wires near each other, or lands on a circuit board, elements in a tube and on and on), but let’s discuss manufactured practical capacitors first. 2 Parallel plates or planes of conductors separated by an insulator. Farad(or somebody) discover way back when that when electricity was applied current flowed. This current would start high and quickly drop off and then stop .The capacitor to store energy is determined by the area of these plates, and the distance between them. Move em closer, capacity increases, double the area, double the capacity, Already with just this much info in a basic capacitor we are at the root of where a lot of the things this thread discusses originate. Without a white board, I’ll try to explain in writing. Ok, BUT, moving them closer to increase capacity (to make the capacitor smaller, DECREASES what voltage we can use this cap at. At some point they get close enough for voltage to jump (arc) the gap! This is the ‘breakdown voltage”. Different insulators have different properties and allow us to make our caps bigger or smaller depending on their breakdown voltages. The insulators can have another property, they can conduct small currents when their breakdown voltage isn’t exceeded, like say we used cardboard. Perfectly dry is has no leakage, but if it absorbs humidty from the air, water conducts electricity and it can become leaky, allowing a small current to flow, so our capacitor could have a leakage that varies from day to day dependent on humidity. Another important design issue here is what insulators do when they break down. Air insulator, after it broke down (arced) if the voltage is lowered, becomes an insulator again. Paper might have burned, and left carbon ash that conducts, and thus be leaky, more or less depending on how long the breakdown sustained. Tantakum capacitors, as great as they seem to be with their small size, low DCR and even lower Inductive reactance have the sad disadvantage that if their voltage rating is exceeded EVER, even for a pico-second, they blow shorted and never recover. That’s why you’ll never see em used for filter in good designs, they are relegated by knowing engineers (read that as ‘people who have burned down buildings with their designs”) to timing circuits and running Chinese made toy cars and helicopters. The first caps were air insulated, then glass, which was way better than air. Then cardboard, then oil immersed cardboard (or paper), because the oil didn’t conduct and didn’t allow humidity to enter our insulator. Electrolytics are planer conductors (two pieces of aluminum foil) wound into a cylinder, so our part is small instead of like a yardstick. separated by an electrolyte, which is a chemical paste that has the advantage of being a very good insulator with a very high breakdown voltage for the distance between the plates, allowing us to make very small parts with a very large capacitance Sideways now, we also can consider another factor, the ESR. For discussion’s sake lets make up a capacitor: suppose two pieces of one square foot area separated by an insulator yield a capacity of 12 microfarad. Great, it could be 12’ by 12”, but could also be 1 inch wide and 144 inches long (and could be rolled into a cylinder so it doesn’t stick twelve feet out of our product, more on this engineer’s nightmare later!). so lets leave it unrolled for now, and use 1 inch wide and 12 feet long. Lets connect to it at one end. Ok, assume that our aluminum foil has a dc resistance at 1’ wide of .1 ohms per foot. The capacity is 12 microfarad, BUT some of the capacity is in series with a dc resistance. Consider this as 12 1 foot long 1 mfd capacitors in parallel. The first one nearest our connection is 1mFd with no series resistance in parallel with another mFd in series with .2ohms, and the next is a mFd in series with .4 ohms, and on to the twelfth capacitor in series with 2.4 ohms! I ain’t into thinking too hard yet this morning and doing the math, but you are going to have a 10 mFd cap with an esr (equivalent series resistance). Now, suppose we hooked up our wires in the middle. Then thinking about this as twelve capacitors paralled, the ends are only 6 feet away with a DCR of 1.2 ohms, giving us a lower esr than if they are on one end. Now it gets worse, let’s roll it up. Great, it is small enough now to be practical but what have we done. We made a coil, coils exhibit a property known as inductance, got to do with current in a conductor creates a magnetic field, take away the current and the magnetic field remains for a bit, decays slowly compared to the disappearance of the current, and then a conductor in a magnetic field generates a current, so this back EMF creates a magnetic field, what it amounts to is unlike a capacitor which conducts better and better (theoretically) at higher and higher frequencies, inductors oppose current flow at high and high frequencies. We calculate or measure this flow in ohms, which is confusing, but it is called inductive reactance and is frequency dependant. Considering our model capacitor again with the wires on the ends again, we have 12 1 mFd capacitors in parallel but each further on has a DCR of 2 times .1ohm, and an XsubL (inductive reactance) in series, reactance being related to the number of turns and the frequency of operation. Now if you sketch this and crank the numbers you will find that if we hooked our connections at opposite ends, we would have the smallest inductive reactance and that is how electrolytics are made. Smallest DCR too. It is still big at high frequencies, originally we realized this back when and on decoupling electrolytcs, especially on integrated circuits that like to oscillate, we have been paralleling them with a small value mica or ceramic, to bypass the very high frequencies. On paralleling lytics with small value caps, I would have to see the circuit, it depends on the lytic ESR at the frequencies of operation, and the goal. I can say it doesn’t hurt anything, not ever, and if you aren’t an engineer, go ahead, it makes a big difference in some places, sonically and in active circuits, stability. Ok, long long ago, someone discovered while experimenting with insulators and capacitors, in the search for high breakdown voltage insulators in smaller thicknesses, with the goal of reducing cap size and more important reducing capacitor cost of manufacture, that if they saturated paper with an electrolyte paste (a chemical that conducts electricity) and then applied a slowly increasing voltage, the electrolyte would electrochemically change into an extremely efficient insulator (now, an electrolyte conducts electricity, but the electrolyte in electrolytic capacitor is electrochemically changed to an insulator, and applied voltages maintain this insulating condition, so I belive “electrolytic capacitor” is a wrong description, although it is used to make them, they should be called ‘insulatic capacitors” or something, as long as an elecrolytic is working, it has no electrolyte in it, it has an efficient insulator). Until the last 20 years or so no other capacitor type exhibited the amount of capacity per size, and they are cheap to make, no exotic materials, just aluminum foil, paper, and goo, so also capacity per dollar, always a big factor in manufacturing, often the biggest. (don’t get me started).
Lytics bluntly suck, but they do do filtering and sometimes decoupling well, in fact for the dollar, better than anything else. Small size per capacitance, low cost per capacitance, excellent self healing/recover after an overvoltage, years ago, only practical process to get high value capacitors, their was no other. This has lead not only to their almost exclusive use in power supply filtering and decoupling, which is a good engineering choice with the exception of their lifetime, but also to their use where they really suck, like in crossovers (suck for MANY reasons). Never in a blind AB golden ears listing test have they ever been chosen as the best choice for audio flowing through them, unless there was something else they were doing like leaking helping. If you can replace a crossover lytic with some other type of capacitor, you will always be better off. On the other hand, if no practical substitute is available because of size or cost, well, lytics have worked all this time and will keep working. BUT, lytics age, and more than one way. Older ones especially get dry, capacitance changes, breakdown voltage lowers, ESR increases, all bad things. Ideal maintenace of a lytic is in circuit, voltage applied and the voltage should be near it max operating voltage. Everyone knew that when you replace a lytic, to use the same voltage or higher. BAD. If you use say a 100 volt lytic in a 100 volt application, geat, the factory formed dielectric is maintained, the more it is used the longer it will live. If you replace it with a 450 volt part, yes, it works, today, the dielectric will reform at the new voltage, and it wasn’t designed for that, there is too much x or Y, and although what reformed to the new voltage is happily working, the extra X or Y has become electrolyte again (read that as “conductor”), leakage, changed capacity, etc. Not just well meaning techs, I have seen many engineers design a higher voltage part in because of availability, not understanding all the ramifications. Even a new lytic is a potential problem, look at the daycode, if it is never used but is more than 2 years old, throw it away. I was a great one for walking in the stockroom and announcing trueisms like that and being responsible for junking millions of parts, (like the time I announced that all audio ic’s should have tinned brass or copper legs, and if a magnet sticks to the legs, throw em away! But that is another story, although I will say, even in crossovers, all parts should be non-ferrous leads, terminal strips should be plated or tinned non-ferrous metal, same with binding post screws, etc.). Electrolytics (insulytics) maintain their insulating dielectric when voltage is applied to them. When they ain’t they slowly decay. It depends on the manufacturer, storage conditions, (temp) etc etc, but typical lytic infant mortality rises quickly with age. Say a particular group of caps are all good the day the were made, at 2 years storage and then use, 5% failure would be typical and at 5 years maybe 20 percent. Yes, reforming would greatly lower them numbers, but they would never meet new specs, lytics are cheap, why screw around. Ok, back to the thinking about this thread, lytics in crossovers, non-polar. We original used polarized lytics in non-polar applications by putting in series back to back. the capacity is half the value of on. The breakdown voltage is the same as either one. The diode trick sounds good in theory, but sounds terrible, especially as an audio waveform crosses the diode “knee” at .6 volts. The original non polar capacitors were two lytics, squished together round and put in the same can. Then someone got the bright idea of three pieces of aluminum foil wound together, connections to the outside pieces, cost of manufacturing goes down, size went down, great. BUT they are still lytics with lytic bad properties which in this case is relatively short lifetime, and often the inductive reactance (which can be negated by paralleling a small value mica or film.)
Ok, where was I? Caps in parallel are fine, never determined a difference from one cap, except it might be ugly (10 film .1’s in parallel, back before they made a 1 mFd film). Wiewound resistors – get em out of the signal path, they are fine in power supplies. Well, I am sure I had more I wanted to comment on, but as I predicted I forgot, I ain’t gonna read the whole thread again, wife took the twins to waterpark for their birthday, I have a very rare day off, and I am going fishing, flats or offshore?, always decisions. I hope I have given some of you experienced people a little more stuff to understand as you are working your hobby. Thanks for reading this far if you did, now I gotta see if this forum can take a message this big or if I gotta put on one of my servers and link – joe
Shoot! I just remember I came to this forum seeking advice on a subwoofer for my stereo. sorry if i bored you, one of my pet subjects, you know.
 
Bored? NO WAY! Thanks Joe. I read every word. A good primer — and blast if it confirmed some of my worst fears. For example, What about my headphone amp that I started building about 5 years ago and never completed? It's 90% finished, but those banked up Nichicon filter caps are five years old as soldered on the board, and maybe a year in the kit waiting to be sold to me. And then there is a drawer full of various electrolytics — all just getting older and more senile. Sigh ....

Can you comment on something we don't hear about very often. What issues surround NON-electrolytics — film capacitors and so on. They can become 'resistive' with age, can they not? I am not familiar with catastrophic failure as in the case of leaking, shorting or opening electrolytic capacitors, but do they too have optimum life spans?

Welcome to AK. I for one will be looking for your posts.

Cheers — Lorne
 
Bored? NO WAY! Thanks Joe. I read every word. A good primer — and blast if it confirmed some of my worst fears. For example, What about my headphone amp that I started building about 5 years ago and never completed? It's 90% finished, but those banked up Nichicon filter caps are five years old as soldered on the board, and maybe a year in the kit waiting to be sold to me. And then there is a drawer full of various electrolytics — all just getting older and more senile. Sigh ....

Can you comment on something we don't hear about very often. What issues surround NON-electrolytics — film capacitors and so on. They can become 'resistive' with age, can they not? I am not familiar with catastrophic failure as in the case of leaking, shorting or opening electrolytic capacitors, but do they too have optimum life spans?

Welcome to AK. I for one will be looking for your posts.

Cheers — Lorne

Lorn, here's my 2 cents worth:
Nichicon may not be a good choice based on my recent capacitor study referenced in an earlier post within this same thread. I purchased 2 from RS and both had horrible ESR's and they were brand new!
Replacing NPE's with film types usually results in a 'brighter' sound because the old NPE's ESR has drifted upward resulting in added resistance seen by the tweeter. The immediate drop in ESR that results from replacing that old or poor quality NPE is heard as higher volume that folks mis-construe as brighter sound. This is shown clearly in my report comparing NICHICON with Solen and Hovland 4.7 uF MPP film caps. I replaced Nichicon with a Parts Express NPE and found it's ESR was much lower - almost as good as the MPP caps.

I have not heard of or, read about aging issues with MPP or film/foil caps.

In summary, that brighter, more open sound re-cappers rave about may indeed be simply the tweeter playing like it did when the speaker was brand new.
 
Phew !!!! That's a lot, but well worth it. Now I get the bit about caps "muddying" the sound (internal inductance and leakage?).

Still thinking the 5% or 10% poly caps are the most reasonable way to go if the MFG spec'd 20% parts to start with?
 
That explained everything I "wanted to know but was afraid to ask" about caps. I hope you don't mind, but I saved all that in my files for future cogitation (Saturday night ain't ideal....). Pesky and problematical critters, those capacitors, aren't they?
 
As an example, I have 3uF 50V caps to replace. I called parts express and they give me part#'s that coincide to a cap rated 3uF 250V.

So do I need to match the caps exactly (uF and V) or is this cap rated at a higher voltage OK to use?

I have 50V, 75V and 100V caps to replace. All the caps they recommended were 250V, 1% Daytons.
 
So do I need to match the caps exactly (uF and V) or is this cap rated at a higher voltage OK to use?

I have 50V, 75V and 100V caps to replace. All the caps they recommended were 250V, 1% Daytons.

Good caps. You're fine using a higher voltage.:thmbsp:
 
Paper foil capacitor deterioration with age (or “why all paper foil capacitors should be replaced”) yea, yea, yea, I know, those old original capacitors sound best, etc etc etc. Well, , sorry, being an engineer, I have to face facts, and the facts are, although they may sound good to you, they do not sound as they did when new, and replacing them with high quality parts can guarantee they sound closer to what they did originally. Facts are facts, these old parts ARE deteriorated; paper was a good choice of an insulator back then, these parts have lasted decades after all. BUT, not for indefinitely. There are several major and minor deterioration with age problems. Paper ages, look at any old piece of paper and you can see that. Yellowed, hardened, brittle. Heat ages paper faster – we restore old electronics and reproduce paper tags and labels as needed, and we often age by baking at 300 degrees for just a couple minutes. Minutes! What has decades of hot enclosed chassis done to the insides of these caps? But the most important is that paper, while a very good insulator, contains moisture. Also, from the paper manufacturing process, paper is slightly acidic. And, even if in manufacturing, all the acid was properly neutralized, the residual moisture in the paper, cellulose, slowly forms acid. In circuit, with an applied voltage, these capacitors, two electrodes of aluminum foil with a paper insulator, have a tiny leakage current that mostly flows through the tiny moisture amount in the paper. Now, this is a cell, no different that how we plate metal, in other words, aluminum from the more positive electrode, the anode, with plate through the insulator and onto the more negative electrode, the cathode. Besides eating away at the anode, and thickening the cathode, a trail of metal or metal salts is deposited along the path through the paper. It takes a long time, decades, but what happened is that the capacity changes and more important leakage increases. Unlike electrolytics, these can’t be re-formed by voltage. Also unlike lytics, that lasted best with more usage, these deteriorated faster with more usage, a reason why NOS old caps are generally better than used. There are many bad complications going on at the same time. Leakage current times the applied voltage equals power being dissipated in the part. What that means is that it is self-heating. As leakage gets worse, the heat can become appreciable. Sideways for a moment, plastic encapsulated capacitors like bumblebees and black beauties seem pretty sealed, BUT . . Plastic expands and contracts with heat and looking at the cases you can imagine that circumference expansion is going to be greater than the expansion on the round end caps, so microscopic cracks with form, allowing more moisture to enter, further accelerating deterioration. Add in that with leakage there is self heating with use, cooling between times, the problem is only getting worse, and will never get better. Leakage. Well, today, slightly leaky caps affect the sound, and if you AB a leaky cap amp and then change them, you may even think it used to sound better! Yup. Going sideways from my points even further, our ears have millions of years of evolution in a natural environment, you know, jungles, forests, etc. well, in nature sounds that have traveled a distance by trees have even harmonic distortion, and it sounds entirely natural to us. There is almost no way in nature to color sounds with odd harmonic distortion. And in blind AB tests with controlled amounts of distortions, people always pick small amounts of even as better sounding than none, even larger amounts of even often preferred to amounts approaching several whole percent! And ALWAYS, people dislike any amount of odd vs none, even to hundredths of a percent, and for some golden ears, thousandths of a percent! Unfortunately transistors with a few exceptions are rich in odd harmonic distortion, and so is sound traveling by metal and plastic. Tubes have even harmonic distortion, so does wood of course, and so do transformers. Just by evolution of radio we accidentally did the right things first, and then as we did wrong things (transistors, plastic, metal, it is unfortunate that the Japanese were taking over our radio, television, and home entertainment and learned that by mass marketing and lower prices techniques they could sell Americans anything, better or more often, worse. Ok, going back a bit. Leakage currents through these old capacitors in the coupling between tube stages, affect grid bias and position the tubes operating parameters off the linear part of their curves and still working, they generate more and more even harmonic distortion. Yup, the old caps DID sound warmer! So what? They no longer sounded as they did when new, no longer sounded as it did when this or that old audio genius designed them. Replacing the caps puts you back there. If you like warm even harmonic distortion get it somewhere else. Try different phono pickups, change tube types all through the signal chain, especially experiment with different speakers and cabinets. The warm sound from old caps is bad. It is in the long run temporary and, more important, it is wearing your tubes quicker shortening their useful life, as they go bad completely, they will take out tubes, permanently ruin transformers and MOST important, potentially cause a fire, either themselves, or at the tube and especially the transformer they are cooking. You know, when you recap and try to AB the recapped sound, measure tube and transformer temperatures before and after – you will be surprised. Back to an interstage coupling capacitor. Connected to the plate of the first tube with a high positive voltage and on the other side to a grid with a negative voltage with respect to that tubes cathode, a small negative to small positive voltage with respect to ground, depending on individual circuit. The leakage current is raising the grid voltage more positive. This is increasing the idle current, and many tubes with increased idle current, is much hotter tubes, certainly affecting tube life, and all the se idle currents are increasing the power supply’s power dissipation, read that as hotter transformer, hotter chokes, hotter dropping resistors, hotter chassis. Heat is the enemy of electronic components, and I dunno about you, I really don’t want to be buying any more expensive matched output tubes than I have to, and certainly not trying to find power and output transformers than I have to. As these time bomb capacitors self-destruct, they will take out all these various parts. I know from experience that many techie people working on this old stuff, having documentation with tube element voltages right there in front of them, think those are “ballpark” voltages. yeah right. Electronics and electricity are sciences, there are tolerances of voltage determining parts, but wake up – they are NOT that loose! Those voltages are near what they should be. When you see higher grid voltages it means coupling caps are leaking. When you see lower supply voltages, it means filter capacitors and de-coupling caps are leaking. The fact is all those paper and foil caps, no matter how nice and shiny new they look, are really no good anymore; they WILL fail catastrophically sooner or later, will destroy tubes, transformers, and could burn a house down. You only have to needlessly burn one house down to give you a whole new outlook on old capacitors. Modern capacitors, especially audio specialty parts, ARE great replacements, and from years of experience with golden ear blind AB tests, and engineering analysis of circuits and circumstances, and, most importantly, using engineering knowledge of the facts, and common sense, I am saying all the above with a high degree of confidence, replace old lytics and paper foil caps, in crossovers from common sense, in amps and receivers for safety. Safety for the hard and expensive to replace tubes and parts, safety for someone’s life and property. Hope all this helps in your thinking about our hobby!
 
Probably built with electrolytics -- undoubtably past the end of their life cycle. Get into them, the values are probably stamped on the caps. You can find nice electrolytics here:

http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&DID=7&WebPage_ID=72

You can try some nice polypropylenes to see what you think -- I tried it with some Old Advents and the top sounded too hot.
This is an interesting thread.
My experience has been that changing all the caps with different types of caps changes the speaker.
And, not always for the better either, unless the caps were just horrible to begin with.
I had Celestion SL 600's, and so did a friend.
He spent megabucks on all new snake oil caps, installed them, ruined the speaker.
He is STILL waiting for the speaker to 'break in". :tears:

I have done several cap experiments comparing electrolytics, metallized Poly, and Polystyrene/Teflon etc in tweeter circuits of various speakers I own, or have owned.
Want to know what the "best sounding cap" is ?
It all depends on the circuit/speaker it is in, IME.

In one pair of speakers, I was unable to beat a replacement Electrolytic with any capacitor I tried.
Now, THAT electrolytic was a Panasonic Electrolytic, reputed to be a good capacitor.
It "liked" that ciruit/driver combo I guess ?
 
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