• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

X-101-B....Rarer than Hens teeth?? ANYONE got a MANUAL????

Not sure just yet. If it's the same basic height and width as a 800c I've got a cabinet. Use it for the 800C or the 400, which ever is in rotation at the time. Here's the list of components I have to match it up with. Gotta get or build a rack/shelf system for it all.
TUNERS: 101-R, FM-50, 80T (just use the tuner)
Multiplexer: MPX-100
Turntables: Zero-100, Lab-80 or SL-1200 (Original version), AT-60 for Older LP's and 78's.
Reel to Reel: A4010S, A4010GSL, GX-730D, GX-4000D
Cassette Deck AKAI GXC-710D, GXC-730D, or PIONEER CTF-6262
SPEAKERS: Kanazawa Cabs with Bozak CO-AX; Lafayette Sk-312 Co-Ax in custom cab's. KLH-17's, or New Large Advents.
 
Last edited:
One more thing. Rick Stout has the X-101-B Service Manual. So I ordered a repro from him. I'll scan it @ 600DPI and send to AKDATABASE and FISHERCONSOLES.. Another plug for MANUALS! If you have a manual that isn't listed on page 2 of the FISHERCONSOLES site,( http://www.fisherconsoles.com/service owner manual list.html ) PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE, Send Jon or Carter a copy to include in the database there. Especially for those consoles that are missing info. Or if you have a console that isn't listed and you have determined 100% beyond a resonable doubt that the console is indeed a FISHER, Send in the documentation to Jon or Carter. We're trying to make FISHERCONSOLES the PREMIER site for Info, schematics, manuals, and other documentation for ANY FISHER Built from 1947 to 1970 or so. Check with Jon or Carter about units from 1969 to 1971 if you have the documentation. They may have a pre-determined cut off date.
 
Your FM-50 should go good with your new integrated. I really like the 101R/MPX100 combo but it won't match the X-101-B in your new custom rack ;)
Add one of those reel to reels, a cassette and your favorite speakers and you'll be listening to it day and night :music:

I believe the 800C cabinet is too big. May fit in the same cabinet as the FM-50.
 
Last edited:
The FM-50 looks like the 101-R. It's got the Brass faceplate like the 101-R. I think you are thinking about the 50B.
 
Larry

I also have an X 101 B. Mine is an early model, no headphone jack, older Fisher brown knobs, without brights. I scanned the original manual and will send you a digital copy if you'd like.

David
 
Thanks David. I have a repro coming from Rick stout @ stereomanuals.com. Unit is in route, be here end of next week.
 
OK Larry. Keep us posted on your progress. The 101 B is pretty rare indeed. Mine has no headphone jack. In the location where your headphone jack is located, I have a slide switch for the center channel on, off. I've never seen another unit configured like mine. And, my face plate is not in the best shape. I've been looking for a replacement faceplate for over 7 years.
 
I just got the manual from Rick. X-101-B. Chassis serials from 60001-69999 Inclusive. The picture on front does NOT have a headphone jack nor does the schematic. Plus there is a switch there in place of the phone jack ( looks like for Center Channel.). I haven't got the Unit yet so will see what the serial # is when it comes. It could be an undocumented change (the headphone jack) late in the production schedule. Plus the switch is now oriented horizontally and it looks like it's to switch the speakers on and off. I can't see the writing under the switch well enough to tell definatively. It still may be for a center switch, but with a headphone jack available, having a switch to turn off the speakers makes sense. I'll address this when the unit comes home.
 
The X-101-B arrived today. SERIAL 75156F. So the EARLY MODEL(60001-69999) manual isn't going to help any. The Filter caps are all different, besides the external changes. Center Channel switch is between the Tape Monitor and loudness (Upper right). There is a Regular speaker switch now, plus a headphone jack. Tube count, type, and layout is the same. I asked Battradio to continue to look for his schematic. I'm tempted to email FisherDoc and see if he has a manual for it. I said TEMPTED! The Remote plug has been disconnected, and I'm debating on whether to wire it back up. I'd need to see another X-101-B with the wiring intact in that area to get an idea of wire dress for it all. It's in very good shape, just needing a cleaning and some polish. Most of the caps have been replaced about 10 years ago. A couple ofthe Filter cap sections have external caps connected to them,so i have to get some NEW FP's or Hayseed's.

No pictures yet as I have Doug's 400 on the bench right now finalizing the EM-87 change over.
 
Last edited:
I found a manual. A copy has been forwarded to AKDATABASE & FISHERCONSOLES. I'll scan my hard copy of the X-101B EARLY VERSION (60001-69999)and send that to both also.
 
OK. Here's Pictures of the X-101-B. Serial 75156F
100_5051.JPG

100_5052 Serial info.jpg

Note that this is the later version with the HEADPHONE JACK.
Controls are LEFT TO RIGHT (S)= Slide Switch, (R)= Rotary

TOP ROW....... (S) Equalization(Tape/Phono), (S) Low Filter, (S) High Filter (R) LOW LEVEL (LEFT),
(R) Low Level (RIGHT), (S) Tape Monitor, (S) Center Speaker, (S) Loudness Contour

BOTTOM ROW...... (R) Input Selector, (R) Mode Selector, (R) Bass, (S) Speaker (On/Off), Headphone Jack under speaker switch, (R) Treble, (R) Dimension / Balance, (R) Master Volume.

I take it the Power Jewel is Either Green or Red.
100_5050.JPG
I haven't done anything to it other than brush off the heavy dust/dirt, replace all the knob brights and install the tubes. The BIAS Adjust pot had been replaced at one time with a pot with a different type shaft. I've got a new correct pot coming.

The Filter caps are replacements, and it's a jungle under there. New correct value and voltage replacements are ordered and will be installed when they arrive. The remote plug wiring has been removed and the circuits rewired. I'd like to wire it back up for historic accuracy, and eventually would like to see the undersides of an unmolested X-101-B to get my bearings.

100_5053.JPG

Right Now the tubes are 4-EH7591's in tone and voltage amps, 2-JAN Phillip/ECG 12ax7WA's in Phono, 1-5AR4/GZ34 Tung-Sol Re-Issue, and 4-EH7591's. EDIT: 4 EH12ax7's in Tone and Votlage Amps.
 
Last edited:
Veeeery nice Larry!! But howd ya get those four 7591s stuffed into those tone/voltage amp sockets?:confused:

Dave
 
Got a new 50K pot from AES for the bias control, dremeled a slot in the shaft, and installed it, along with New Hayseed Hamfest Filter Caps. Everything is wired up correctly(GAWD, I HOPE SO!!?!?!?). I always get a case of the shakes when I power up a new piece the 1st time after major work. I managed to figure out the remote control socket wiring and rewired it using shielded coax from a Earlier Fisher parts carcass. Now to see if I did it all right. 1st power up with tubes but no rectumfrier, and if everything ok, then the 5ar4 goes in.

Pictures in a little while.
 
IT'S ALIVE! ALIVE!!!! (My Apologies to Gene Wilder)........ Anyway, I put it on the DBT, pulled the rectifier tube and powered it up. After 2 minutes the voltages were stable and heater voltages were running between 6.29 and 6.39v. DBT was barely lit on 100w bulb. Put the 5AR4 in and with a150W bulb in, powered on. The bulb BARELY lit, and with the laptop running thru the AUX input, it sounded good. About 2 minutes into the 2nd test I was moving the KM-60 onto the bench to connect to the X-101-B, I see a spark out of peripheral vision and hear a "SNAP". I saw the arc, so I knew where exactly to look. V3 Pin7 R65 and pin 6 c28 tried to make a date and R65 resisted C28's advances. The sleeve on R65 was worn apparently having rebuffed C28's advances before. So I pulled R65 and replaced with doubled heatshrink on both sides. C28 also got a raincoat on both legs. NO MORE PROBLEMS.

I ran it up and let it sit for about 15 minutes then checked voltages. Wall Voltage 115VAC. No Varistor installed. Plate voltage is 420V vs 424v schematic. Screens are at 382 vs. 379. Cathode voltage is 43.8 to 44.0 depending on which tube I check. No I haven't installed cathode resistors yet, but they are in the plans. While I was typing the 1st para, the LEFT Channel got real loud, and a good deal brighter than the right side. LOUDNESS WAS ON. I turned off the LOUDNESS and both channels are even. So I've got to look at the Loudness circuit.

I used the EH7591's for initial testing and when finished, I pulled and swapped in a quad of brand new Tungsol's Re-ISSUES. I'll let the X-101-B break them in. So it has ALL Brand New tubes in it. Tung Sol 5ar4, T-S 759s, 2- Tungsol 12ax7's in PHONO, and 4-EH12ax7s.

Pics: Playing off the Laptop as a source.
100_5061.JPG

Full Set TUNG-SOLS on the Back Plane.
100_5063.JPG
New Bias Pot (TOP)
100_5059.JPG

New Bias Pot (Bottom)
100_5057.JPG
New Filter Cap's (bottom)
100_5054.JPG

Remote socket wired up. I tied all the grounds to the Screw/Nut/Soldered ground points for the tube, And Ran a short wire to the mandated ground points on the socket. Ground points on both sides of tube socket are showing 0.00ohms and there is NO HUM at FULL VOLUME with no Source in ANY selected input.
100_5056.JPG

Complete top with EH7591's to compare with the Tung-Sol's.
100_5058.JPG
 
Great job Larry! Check the two caps on the loudness switch C24, and C25. Most techs never replace them because there's no concerns for leakage in that location. Therefore, you will usually find the classic brown RADIAL caps that Fisher used still installed. In my experience, these caps rarely ever go bad due to leakage -- but they DO become intermittent over the years due to the heating and cooling cycles. That may just be in fact what's happened with your unit as well. Understand I am NOT talking about the dark brown AXIAL caps that Fisher used in their models throughout most of the 50's. Those caps would indeed develop leakage problems over the years, and should be changed without hesitation.

Dave
 
Thanks Dave. I figured it was either one of those or the switch is flaky, as I found I can wiggle the switch sideways and get the left side to calm down to the level of the Right side. But I'll definately check and replace if originals. And check out the switch while I'm at it. I've got a couple GOOD FISHER Maroon switches downstairs.
 
It was the caps. When I desoldered the Left one, it literally fell apart. The end piece with the lead just fell out of the casing. Wonder it was actually working. Didn't have .022's but had a bunch of .01's. So paralleled 2 .01's (x2) and soldered them in until I get some .02's. Works fine.

With Mini Advents it sounds very much like a 400, but with some extras that the 400 and the "C" models dont have. All controls centered, it's very much a 400 sounding unit. Bass is a bit much with the Loudness on but it needs it at low levels.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom