Welcome to AK and the wonderful world of the B-2.Hi! I am the fortunate / recent buyer of the B2 amp shown in the video posted earlier bench testing the amp for harmonic distortion.
There was a comment about the quality of sound, so I thought I would chime in. When I first hooked up the amp I was blown away by the sound! The clarity in the upper midrange and highs are phenomenal. Cymbals were crystal clear (as I have never heard)! The sensitivity and detail are probably due to the incredibly low noise floor on this amp. With the gain turned all the up, the amp is dead silent (even when hooked up to my 99 SdBL sensitive Altec horn speakers. I could hear the texture of the snare drum like never before. On harmonics of string instruments, I heard and felt vibrations that gave me "goose bumps". Also, vocals were detailed (with texture) and I could hear the subtle breathing of the singer on songs that I had listened to for years, but had never heard before! The human voice is the most familiar "instrument" to us all, and this amp is almost "human" in the way it sings to me! As expected, the sound stage of both instruments and vocals were heard in "3D" and well localized.
I do not make these comments lightly as I have had many amplifiers including tubes (SE 300B, 2A3, and PP EL34, 6550) during my "journey" over the last 45 years. This B2 has that sweet "tube" sound of Yamaha V-FETs but is somehow stronger in the low / mid bass with much faster / articulate highs than any tube.
The bass is also very tight and controlled. I have been a Sony V-Fet fan for many years, but I must say that this B2 restored by Peter, is better sounding than my Sony V-FET amps including my TAN-8550 and TAN-5550, with more control / precision in the mid and lower ranges of instruments. I may no longer need a subwoofer with this amp as it drives my Altec Magnificents (16 ohm) and Altec 604's to new levels of excellence (tight bass with punch) that has put a smile on my face.
I tried the B2 amp first through a pre-amplifier and then through input 2 using the direct gain controls to adjust the volume on each speaker. Both modes sounded outstanding!
My wife (who is not an audiophile) was in the room when the B2 amp was playing and I noticed that her head turned to listen to the music. I later asked her if she liked the sound of the amp and she replied with a firm "Yes, it sounds like real music!"
Pete, what are those purple capacitors you are using for C107, 108, 109?
Pete, what are those purple capacitors you are using for C107, 108, 109?
On the driver board? Pretty sure they are silver mica's .
Nashou
like he said^^^^^^
I used them because I have a bunch, but silver mica in not necessary there. New ceramic is OK or leave the original in.
I am very slow at reading minds^^^ ?
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I am very slow at reading minds
please do spell out what you are thinking about??

the original are ceramics and worked for ~50 years. You can replace with better caps if you want.I was responding to Nick , he seems to have removed his post . I should have quoted him, but I think he said , now paraphrasing here, that ceramics may not be the right cap. SO I was hoping he would clarify that .
Athanasios
very nice!Boards ready to go into an old B2 that was previously my parts unit!
For this rebuild, I am following all the teachings of this thread. Input JFETs on the driver boards are the Toshiba SMD BL rank, equivalents Pete suggested from the Yamaha B3.
This is getting close. Selector boards are installed in B2, meter board has been recapped, and now all is left is to start wiring it up and test.
View attachment 2800924
Sorry about that! I was responding to:I was responding to Nick , he seems to have removed his post . I should have quoted him, but I think he said , now paraphrasing here, that ceramics may not be the right cap. SO I was hoping he would clarify that.
I used them because I have a bunch, but silver mica in not necessary there. New ceramic is OK or leave the original in.
Yes indeed, the schematic shows C107, 108, and 109 are 6pF, 3pF and 5pF caps respectively and are polystyrene precision caps. If you're going to replace them with ceramic caps they need to be NP0 or C0G types. Same value Silver Mica caps will also work.The ones that are more critical are the original styrene caps.
NP0 or C0G types
Thanks, they look like ceramic to me but I could be wrong. Nonetheless, I have not found any that needed replacement.6pF, 3pF and 5pF caps respectively and are polystyrene precision caps
Thanks, they look like ceramic to me but I could be wrong. Nonetheless, I have not found any that needed replacement.
Ah yes, you're right. C107, 108, and 109 are C0G Ceramic types; my point was more that they need to be tight tolerance caps and like Pete, I've always found the originals to be fine.I just replaced them all and those were originally ceramic in my unit (at least the package looks like ceramic to me!).