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Yamaha C-2 component leak

bandwagoner

New Member
Hi Everyone, I love this forum to bits and constantly read around but don't get to contribute much because I don't often get my hands on vintage gear.

I was lucky enough to inherit a Yamaha C-2 pre-amplifier and Bryston 4B amplifier combo from my pops that he hasn't touched in several years - he was the original owner of both. I brought the amp to Bryston to refurbish a few years ago as a gift and it seems to work great, but I didn't really have any great components to test it out with - I had a harmon/kardon AVR20 II that I used as a preamp to ensure that it worked. Turns out his C-2 was not serviced or worked on since being purchased new (and you'll see from the photos it looks like it was hardly used at all). He said it did not turn on and ended up leaving it like that for several years. He asked me if I wanted to take a look at it and see if I could figure it out, and said that I could have the combo if I did! Didn't have to think very long.

FRONT:
AE5535C3-4DD5-414C-9728-5B345C11964D.jpeg
BACK:
818A949B-E91E-46B8-B103-F06C0A20264B.jpeg


BOTTOM VIEW OPEN:
3BB1EC62-A7C3-447B-AF5E-A1E3A70E253A.jpeg


POWER SUPPLY BOARD *NOT POWER SUPPLY BOARD* (?) - Note the white leakage on the board:
28AF725B-1459-4CFD-93A8-BFC668614A7A.jpeg


LEAKAGE:
0C6E5149-0962-4860-90E6-59EFF4FA9266.jpeg


TRIED TO FOCUS ON COMPONENT MARKINGS:
00C0D397-3CBD-4869-A6D6-96E1919A6D4D.jpeg

Anyway, after opening it up I quickly saw the problem - there seems to be a foil wrapped component (in what I think is the power supply board) that seems to have popped and leaked. It looks kind of like an electrolytic cap but not like one I've seen before (I obviously don't have very much experience with internal troubleshooting). It has what looks like to be a wax top, and wrapped in foil. The rest of the board is in good shape it looks like, but I am open to fully recapping anything necessary to bring it back to full performance. It's several decades old by now so I don't think it would hurt.

I recently got myself a soldering kit and I've been practising on some less valuable stuff - I'm wondering if someone with a little more experience here seems to know if replacing that should fix the problem. All the fuses seem to be good so I don't think it's that. Pics attached!

EDIT: Looking again, I don't know why I thought it's the power supply board considering there's no fuses and it's too far from the transformer. I don't know what it is!
 
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It is glue. Those are polystyrene film capacitors and have no liquid components..
 
Precaution needs to be taken with polystyrene. Soldering iron/pencil heat can permanently damage or destroy them.

Put plainly don't mess with them.
 
It is glue. Those are polystyrene film capacitors and have no liquid components..

Wow, okay - thanks. I guess that's not the issue then. I wonder what it is. I guess I'll test the fuses again to be sure, I left my multimeter at my dad's place and have to go pick it up from him this weekend.
 
Hmm.. I checked the fuses again and everything seems to be fine. I did a little looking and found a user on HIFIvision that seemed to have a similar issue as me (no power), and it seems that it was the power switch that seems to get dirty and needs a good clean. This is a link to the post: https://www.hifivision.com/threads/recapping-yamaha-c2-preamplifier.64270/

I replied to that post hoping to get some information but it seems to be a sealed switch - I don't want to start drilling until I know I'm not going to destroy anything. Does anyone here have any tips with respect to drilling a sealed switch to get some deoxit in there?
 
the power switch that seems to get dirty and needs a good clean.
Power switch contacts get carboned up and pitted. Cleaning is a short time fix. It needs the snap action switch replaced. . If ,indeed it is the issue. Don't even fart around trying to clean. Just replace the $3 part.

snap action switch-- This appears to be a 1 amp model

F9SKD7t.jpg

You can test the OEM switches continuity with a multimeter.
 
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Did you use a multimeter ?

Yes I did, tested for continuity, they were all okay.

Power switch contacts get carboned up and pitted. Cleaning is a short time fix. It needs the snap action switch replaced. . If ,indeed it is the issue. Don't even fart around trying to clean. Just replace the $2 part.

snap action switch-- This appears to be a 1 amp model

View attachment 2100090

You can test the OEM switches continuity with a multimeter.


Thanks, I will definitely test out the OEM switch and if that's the case I'll be replacing it with what you suggested. This might be obvious but I should get continuity if the switch is in the on position, correct? I'm also assuming I have to disconnect it from the wiring or is it possible to test this while it's still wired in?
 
Should get continuity, with the plunger pin pushed, between the two soldered connections. Just needs to be unplugged from the wall to check continuity.
 
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