Asmodeus2112
Super Member
I agree, I don't see any lifted traces. But could be the pics.
Yamaha C-2 component leak
- Thread starter bandwagoner
- Start date
I did. I could hear something very weakly if I turned it up. I suspect I've got cold solder joints on the pin board or about the selector switch. Tape player plays fine in through the aux. Am I right in thinking with the "neutral" setting of the tape selector, there's no signal at all going through it?
I got varying signal strengths through the tape inputs, but mostly not.
Yeah, I guess I need to open it open again and get a good look and trying cleaning those contacts again and inspect the solder side of the switch.
I got varying signal strengths through the tape inputs, but mostly not.
Yeah, I guess I need to open it open again and get a good look and trying cleaning those contacts again and inspect the solder side of the switch.
Last edited:
David Litman
Active Member
While cleaning glue off the Power Supply board, C403 moved oddly. I found one connector had crumbled away. I managed to solder an extension (which was very difficult as the wire from the cap disintegrated as soon as the iron touched it) and then got it back on the board. However, probably best to replace all four ie; C401, C402, C403 and C404. Can anyone please tell me what to get for replacement, please? I'll be very grateful. Are these bi-polar by any chance?
PS, After repairing the bass knob assembly, I lost one channel. Eventually, I found a crack in a track near the Mode Switch. Thankfully, the C-2 is working and sounding great after re-capping the big ones and a meticulous clean.
PS, After repairing the bass knob assembly, I lost one channel. Eventually, I found a crack in a track near the Mode Switch. Thankfully, the C-2 is working and sounding great after re-capping the big ones and a meticulous clean.
Yes. They look like Polyester film caps. " chicklets"
David Litman
Active Member
Chicklets. Sounds rather seventies. Well, the chicks bit anyway. Now I see they are a thing. Thank you. Well ok but to find the correct value, please? Any ideas?
Last edited:
The caps in question should have there value printed on them or a capacitor value code. If not, the parts list in the service manual or the schematic diagram should shine some light on the subject.
Capacitor Value Calculator
This Ceramic Capacitor Value Calculator calculates the capacitance value of a ceramic capacitor if the capacitor code is provided in the input field, or vice versa.
circuitdigest.com
Last edited:
Sparkplug
Super Member
David Litman
Active Member
I never knew this was possible. I have book marked the link. Thank you very much. My eyes had just glazed over when I looked for clues on the caps as the numbers meant nothing to me.The caps in question should have there value printed on them or a capacitor value code. If not, the parts list in the service manual or the schematic diagram should shine some light on the subject.
Capacitor Value Calculator
This Ceramic Capacitor Value Calculator calculates the capacitance value of a ceramic capacitor if the capacitor code is provided in the input field, or vice versa.
I can see why now though they had different branding in the UK. Things are much clearer with a bit of history.
David Litman
Active Member
This thread is not the place so, would anyone please look at my post re recap NS-1000's? tbh, I copied / pasted the same question in any thread to do with this with only a like to show for it. PS the text in the link below is not my question. My question is the last post in the thread. Thank you
NS 1000 M crossover recap
Those are the woofer caps you show there. Midrange series requires ~21uF, one for each speaker. Ah yes, I see from the circuit diagram now, that is the case. Thank you. So the one for the mid speaker is; Presumably, that replaces the string of six 21uf caps. I wonder what that would look...
audiokarma.org