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Yamaha CA-2010 Restoration

SmileyFaceEQ said:
Relays, Switches, and wafer switches were buggers. The pots should be fine with a spray.
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I have some experience with the switches from when I did my CA1010. Fairly confident with those. Relays I’ll replace. It’s the volume pot that I’m nervous about. It’s scratchy and I’m not sure how to best go about that one. I’ve read some of the posts / opinions on the subject. Still not sure which approach I’ll take. I certainly like the idea of getting it super clean to get as much quality of of the amp as I can.
 
Got the power / protection board recapped and replaced the relay. There was a small crack also, 2 part epoxy for the top and touched up a couple traces. They weren’t broken but it’s stronger now regardless. Tested and all good. IMG_2077.jpegIMG_2076.jpeg
 
I'm now selecting capacitors the rest of this project.

Regarding the tantalum capacitors on the phono preamp, has anyone found anything better than Nichicon UKL for this application? Should I just retain the tantalums? My one concern with the UKL is that I'm only able to find then at 16V (no 10V anymore). These are 8mm, I was able to make them fit on my CA-1010, but it wasn't pretty.
 
Any concern with the Panasonic FC's leakage current being a little higher (although still low) than the UKL?

Panasonic FC
1771349064075.png

Nichicon UKL
1771349146936.png

I can fit the UKL if I had to, just looking for the best cap to use here.
 
I replace tants with tants...that's if I replace tants at all. Can't rant about electrolytics vs tants. Though they're small as ants, I try an maintain the original design, depending how much $ is in my pants.
The Vishay & Kemet tants in stock at digikey are worth a rant but pricey, so I understand if ya can't. I wouldn't touch them...literally.

That's my stance
:beerchug:
 
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Soundscape said:
I replace tants with tants...that's if I replace tants at all. Can't rant about electrolytics vs tants. Though they're small as ants, I try an maintain the original design, depending how much $ is in my pants.
The Vishay & Kemet tants in stock at digikey are worth a rant but pricey, so I understand if ya can't. I wouldn't touch them...literally.

That's my stance
:beerchug:
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Fair enough. Thanks for the lovely poem. :rflmao:

I’ll take a look at those also and have a think.
 
MikeC3PO said:
Either way I’ll get this board recapped and all cleaned up and take it from there, unless anyone sees any red flags.
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Yes. The 15 gas tight wire wrap to brad nail post power board terminations may come loose while working on it. I guarantee 2 will. I tin these wraps first before pulling the board. Otherwise the wraps loosen and/or wire strands break at the bottom of the post close to the wire insulation. Then ya gotta buy a wire wrap tool or do redneck solder ops.
20260217_192901.jpg

Don't ask me how I know this, but it can haunt you later.

Esoteric Redneckisms
 
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Soundscape said:
Yes. The 15 gas tight wire wrap to brad nail post power board terminations may come loose while working on it. I guarantee 2 will. I tin these wraps first before pulling the board. Otherwise the wraps loosen and/or wire strands break at the bottom of the post close to the wire insulation. Then ya gotta buy a wire wrap tool or do redneck solder ops.
View attachment 3702357

Don't ask me how I know this, but it can haunt you later.

Esoteric Redneckisms
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Thanks for the heads up. I did check them all once I was done, but I’ll recheck very carefully now. Hopefully I got lucky, I was quite careful.
 
While we are on the topic of which caps to change and which to leave original, what about the various film caps on the function and tone boards? Do these deteriorate like the electrolytics?
 
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