I've never torn these switches down for fear of causing harm. I just squirt the white slits with D5 a few times over succession of days with lots of cycling and they seem to work ok afterward for me. Not saying I know better, cuz I don't.
Yamaha CA-2010 Restoration
- Thread starter MikeC3PO
- Start date
I use non intrusive test probes for the same purpose...or a syringe from the county health department for a D100 dose. Oh the addiction.
The Fuxtor
Addicted Member
I get this far then use a deoxit soaked pipe cleaner to scrub the inside of the switch
I’m going to strongly agree with stopping at that point. Unfortunately I did not and I cracked that brown top part. 2-part epoxy missions now. But I think I salvaged it. Super clean thou.
We would have to know the pin spacing on the switch , however some times the slot that the metal switch carrier has that hold the switch to the chassis do not match and you have to modify the switch or if its like yours a single switch you can also buy he associated carrier.
Athanasios
Right, putting the little spring lever mechanism back together isn’t impossible, but it’s not fun. Possibly of failure is there. Maybe your first advice is the best. Open the hole a little and give a good flush. Something to consider for next time.
I just came to the realization that although this toggle switch “receives” the audio signal, the audio output doesn’t actually pass through it (unlike the mode switch). I should have checked closer before jumping in. Live and learn.
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The syringe injection method mentioned earlier was authored by @Bratwurst7s. Wanted to give credit where it's due. Caig sauce is expensive & syringes minimize waste.
I enjoyed watching the teardown of that switch though. Good stuff. Hope it works well.
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Seams to be working well with MM testing.The syringe injection method mentioned earlier was authored by @Bratwurst7s. Wanted to give credit where it's due. Caig sauce is expensive & syringes minimize waste.
I enjoyed watching the teardown of that switch though. Good stuff. Hope it works well.
I tried searching but didn’t find a specific thread regarding the syringe injection, but that’s makes sense.
PavelI almost forgot to Deoxit the muting switch before reinstalling the assy.
This is my Deoxit mod. A medical infusion needle with the tip ground down to a conical shape and popped onto the end of the spray tube, sealed with hot glue.
The needle serves several functions.
One, it is small enough to be pushed into the tiny holes on the top etc of many Alps switches with a tight fit. All of the fluid is forced into the switch.
Two, the smaller diameter of the needle raises the delivery pressure and together with the tight fit the Deoxit boils out of every opening of...
Got the mute switch cleaned up today. Before and after pics below.
Also wanted to share that I’m loving the new “helping hands” tool I upgraded to. Much better than the old school version with the cast iron base. The magnet arms work great in and around the amp chassis as well as with its own base.
Also wanted to share that I’m loving the new “helping hands” tool I upgraded to. Much better than the old school version with the cast iron base. The magnet arms work great in and around the amp chassis as well as with its own base.
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The Fuxtor
Addicted Member
Amazing how dirty these switches can get. Nice job
Cleaned the last slide switch on the tone board tonight. Time to move onto the sealed alps pots. The bass and treble were not displaying any issues, but the volume was scratchy. I plan to clean all three. After reading all the posts I could find, watching YouTube videos and thinking on it, I’m heavily leaning towards the remove screws, pry top open, syringe cleaner into pot method.
Is the method still the most popular?
What cleaning agent is suggested?
I was thinking D100. But I have D5, Faderlube and electric contact cleaner on hand and am not opposed to getting any other if recommended.
Is the method still the most popular?
What cleaning agent is suggested?
I was thinking D100. But I have D5, Faderlube and electric contact cleaner on hand and am not opposed to getting any other if recommended.
Got the tone board cleaned up.
All switches disassembled and cleaned (Silvo + ultrasonic). Pots cracked open and syringe D100. Electrolytics changed. Fuseable resistors replaced with metal film.
Interestingly all components replaced were still within spec. Maybe the fuseables on the amp boards take more of a beating?
Did I miss anything?
All switches disassembled and cleaned (Silvo + ultrasonic). Pots cracked open and syringe D100. Electrolytics changed. Fuseable resistors replaced with metal film.
Interestingly all components replaced were still within spec. Maybe the fuseables on the amp boards take more of a beating?
Did I miss anything?
As a follow-up to an earlier post in this thread, I pulled and tested the tantalum caps in the phono section.
The 100uf 10v all tested within 5% and the 100uf 16v all tested within 1%.
I’ll be retaining these and trying to compare against my CA1010 in which these were replaced with electrolytics.
The 100uf 10v all tested within 5% and the 100uf 16v all tested within 1%.
I’ll be retaining these and trying to compare against my CA1010 in which these were replaced with electrolytics.
I noticed new tantalums of the same value don't compare physically either. The originals are quite beefy.
Finished the preamp / function board.
Replaced electrolytics. Disassembled and cleaned switches, soldered the rivets on the waffers. Removed, ultrasonically cleaned and polished the RCAs. Tested and retained the fusibles and tantalum’s. Cleaned up / reflowed solder joints as required
Replaced electrolytics. Disassembled and cleaned switches, soldered the rivets on the waffers. Removed, ultrasonically cleaned and polished the RCAs. Tested and retained the fusibles and tantalum’s. Cleaned up / reflowed solder joints as required
Attachments
I"ve been been enjoying the journey on this one. Good stuff.
