a_retent
In memory of Trixie woo-woo
The Mobile Fidelity Geo-disc works very well on the 1000 series tables, otherwise the distance including collet washer to stylus tip is 49mm.
Pioneer PL-L1000A Thread
- Thread starter Bratwurst7s
- Start date
The Mobile Fidelity Geo-disc works very well on the 1000 series tables, otherwise the distance including collet washer to stylus tip is 49mm.
Thanks!
I do have one of those MFSL Geo-discs, it came in the Rolling Stones box set. I'll ask my son to bring it over.
,James
I almost forgot to Deoxit the muting switch before reinstalling the assy.
This is my Deoxit mod. A medical infusion needle with the tip ground down to a conical shape and popped onto the end of the spray tube, sealed with hot glue.
The needle serves several functions.
One, it is small enough to be pushed into the tiny holes on the top etc of many Alps switches with a tight fit. All of the fluid is forced into the switch.
Two, the smaller diameter of the needle raises the delivery pressure and together with the tight fit the Deoxit boils out of every opening of the switch.
Three the long thin needle allows access into some really tight spots.
I gave the switch 3 shots, with vigorous working between shots.
,
James
This is my Deoxit mod. A medical infusion needle with the tip ground down to a conical shape and popped onto the end of the spray tube, sealed with hot glue.
The needle serves several functions.
One, it is small enough to be pushed into the tiny holes on the top etc of many Alps switches with a tight fit. All of the fluid is forced into the switch.
Two, the smaller diameter of the needle raises the delivery pressure and together with the tight fit the Deoxit boils out of every opening of the switch.
Three the long thin needle allows access into some really tight spots.
I gave the switch 3 shots, with vigorous working between shots.
,James
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Back together.
The Teflon sheathing is pretty stiff but I managed to get it bent and shaped into position. The circuit board originally only had the one cable tie on the wire bundle coming from the tonearm. There was just enough room in the hole to use a second tie to the left around the new connection cable to minimize pressure on the solder connections. It is not optimal but I figured that it had to be better than nothing.
I was able to get the switch plate positioned right in it's original position as far as I can tell, so hopefully it won't need to be adjusted. I won't reconnect the spring until after the EV mech is back in.
I took the 2 pieces of cable sheathing that were cut off and inserted them in the strain relief with the cable before tightening it. The cable is held in place very tightly, anything that would make it move would probably pull the entire table off of the shelf.
,
James
The Teflon sheathing is pretty stiff but I managed to get it bent and shaped into position. The circuit board originally only had the one cable tie on the wire bundle coming from the tonearm. There was just enough room in the hole to use a second tie to the left around the new connection cable to minimize pressure on the solder connections. It is not optimal but I figured that it had to be better than nothing.
I was able to get the switch plate positioned right in it's original position as far as I can tell, so hopefully it won't need to be adjusted. I won't reconnect the spring until after the EV mech is back in.
I took the 2 pieces of cable sheathing that were cut off and inserted them in the strain relief with the cable before tightening it. The cable is held in place very tightly, anything that would make it move would probably pull the entire table off of the shelf.
,James
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After finishing the above work I rechecked continuity on the wires and got 00.0 ohms on all 5 connections between the end of the tone arm and the solder connections. So I think that they are good.
Two last maintenance items.
I have some light teflon oil and applied one drop to each end of the front guide rail after standing the base on it's side and worked the rail until the oil was worked in.
While doing that I noticed that the little shelf that actually lifts the tone arm was lowering sluggishly after being lifted. So it got 2 drops of oil with vigorous working between drops and it is moving smoothly now.
Other than finishing the EV mech I can't think of any more maintenance items to complete. If anyone has any thoughts on anything that I am missing I am all ears.
,
James
Two last maintenance items.
I have some light teflon oil and applied one drop to each end of the front guide rail after standing the base on it's side and worked the rail until the oil was worked in.
While doing that I noticed that the little shelf that actually lifts the tone arm was lowering sluggishly after being lifted. So it got 2 drops of oil with vigorous working between drops and it is moving smoothly now.
Other than finishing the EV mech I can't think of any more maintenance items to complete. If anyone has any thoughts on anything that I am missing I am all ears.
,James
Thanks for the kind words cason!I am impressed with your work and your attention to detail on this tableThis is looking great.
Have you considered having the original cartridge retipped, or do you hope to improve on it?
I am absolutely open to having my old Adcom re-tipped. I am also completely out of the loop and will have to find someone (preferably in the EU) that can do that for me.
But I am also interested in a new MC cartridge.
On top of that I would like to locate either a second original headshell or a replacement from a different Pioneer model that will fit or new production that will fit.
I am open to all suggestions in this direction.
,James
I took a nap after lunch and when I woke up my wife said that a small package had been delivered. And it is from Portugal. 
Lets take a look!
,
James
Lets take a look!
,James
Well, the first thing that I see is that Miguel has tossed in a few extra parts that were not in the sales description.
There is an extra, larger motor pulley, and 2 different worm gears.
And, what is this?
The long part is a sled lock plunger. Not sure what the other 2 are.
I am going to take a walk in the rain with my wife and after I get back we can take a deeper look.
,
James
There is an extra, larger motor pulley, and 2 different worm gears.
And, what is this?
The long part is a sled lock plunger. Not sure what the other 2 are.
I am going to take a walk in the rain with my wife and after I get back we can take a deeper look.
,James
The small wedge shaped black part appears to be the piece under the tonearm that centers it as it descends. I haven't figured out the 3rd part yet. Anyone have any ideas?
I won't get any farther today. I will want to sit down, take my time and do some measurements and test fittings with the new parts.
And it is already well past Beer-O-Clock and rapidly approaching Music:30.
,
James
And it is already well past Beer-O-Clock and rapidly approaching Music:30.
,James
Well James, seems you have garnered some good will with this thread. It’s not often anymore that I am able to give back to this site and its members much, relative to all I have received over the years of participating here. But, today I can give a little something. This is the only thing I have left, salvaged from my PL-L1000 before I sent it on its way to help save other similar turntables.
I know it’s not perfect, but it’s an original and I’d like you to have it.
Message me your mailing address and I’ll get it off to you.
Bob
I know it’s not perfect, but it’s an original and I’d like you to have it.
Message me your mailing address and I’ll get it off to you.
Bob
Wow!
I am humbled and honored. This represents Audiokarma at it's best and I will gladly accept your kind offer.
I will PM you shortly.
,James
Way cool, and once again thank you very much! You are a scholar and a gentleman.
,James
My kids came over for Sunday family lunch. I feel fortunate that they all live nearby and that we have been able to keep up with the tradition of Sunday lunch together.
So anyway, my son brought something with. For the first time in 12 years there is an LP in my apartment. As I recall I bought this one (very well) used and it is quite worn, and a cutout too boot.
And thanks for the reminder about the Geo-Disk a_retent! I had completely forgotten about it.
,
James
So anyway, my son brought something with. For the first time in 12 years there is an LP in my apartment. As I recall I bought this one (very well) used and it is quite worn, and a cutout too boot.
And thanks for the reminder about the Geo-Disk a_retent! I had completely forgotten about it.
,James
Ok, I took the EV mech partly back apart and am slowly comparing parts. There are some quality issues mostly minor, a couple possibly more serious, I will note them as I go.
Everything is being measured with Mititoyo dial calipers as accurately as I can but most of the measurements should be taken as approximate. Sometimes I miss having access to an optical comparator and a full set of hole gauge pins.
First off, the steel axle for the worm gear and large pulley measures a consistent 1.99mm in diameter. From there I went to the large pulley.
I will list the measurements in a "Part/feature/original/new" format.
The original pulley is completely symmetrical, hubs, flanges etc.
The new part is formed with a protruding hub on one side only. The outer flanges of the belt groove are not formed with the same outside diameter, but I don't see that affecting it's functionality any.
Belt pulley, Large.
Hub Dia = 5.91mm/6.95mm.
Hub outer width (total) = 7.35mm/6.71mm.
Wheel width at the OD = 4.075mm/4.25mm.
Wheel OD = 23.75mm/22.95mm and 21.67mm.
Groove width at top = 1.95mm/ Because of the different flange OD's I didn't measure the new part here.
Wheel OD at the bottom of the belt groove = 20.31mm/20.02mm.
Because of the square edge of the caliper faces it was not possible to measure fully into the bottom groove, especially the original part which has less of a radius at the bottom. The new part has a larger radius and I think that if I could measure them more accurately they would both be about 20mm.
Belt pulley, Small.
Barrel OD = 5.83mm/5.86mm.
Top rim OD = 5.86mm/6.52mm.
Height = 8.2mm/7.71mm.
Groove width at top = 1.9mm/2.12mm.
OD at bottom of groove = 3.73mm/4.01mm. The same factor applies here as with the large pulley, I believe that they are nearly the same. This would be an issue if there is a difference with the new parts because it could affect the worm gear speed, but I am guessing that minor differences are not going to cause a big problem.
I test fit both pulleys on the free end of the axle. Both could be pushed on only a couple of mm before they started getting tight. I think that there is no question that they will have a tight fit. However since both of my original pulleys are still good I am going to keep using them and keep the new parts as a reserve.
I see no serious problems with the pulleys, with one "maybe". The original groove form is very much a V shape with a small radius at the bottom. It would seem logical that they will tend to wedge the belt into the groove, and help hold it against slipping. The new parts have a larger radius. I don't know if that is enough to make it perform less well than the original parts.
Everything else is basically cosmetic or doesn't seem that it would have any affect on function.
,
James
Everything is being measured with Mititoyo dial calipers as accurately as I can but most of the measurements should be taken as approximate. Sometimes I miss having access to an optical comparator and a full set of hole gauge pins.
First off, the steel axle for the worm gear and large pulley measures a consistent 1.99mm in diameter. From there I went to the large pulley.
I will list the measurements in a "Part/feature/original/new" format.
The original pulley is completely symmetrical, hubs, flanges etc.
The new part is formed with a protruding hub on one side only. The outer flanges of the belt groove are not formed with the same outside diameter, but I don't see that affecting it's functionality any.
Belt pulley, Large.
Hub Dia = 5.91mm/6.95mm.
Hub outer width (total) = 7.35mm/6.71mm.
Wheel width at the OD = 4.075mm/4.25mm.
Wheel OD = 23.75mm/22.95mm and 21.67mm.
Groove width at top = 1.95mm/ Because of the different flange OD's I didn't measure the new part here.
Wheel OD at the bottom of the belt groove = 20.31mm/20.02mm.
Because of the square edge of the caliper faces it was not possible to measure fully into the bottom groove, especially the original part which has less of a radius at the bottom. The new part has a larger radius and I think that if I could measure them more accurately they would both be about 20mm.
Belt pulley, Small.
Barrel OD = 5.83mm/5.86mm.
Top rim OD = 5.86mm/6.52mm.
Height = 8.2mm/7.71mm.
Groove width at top = 1.9mm/2.12mm.
OD at bottom of groove = 3.73mm/4.01mm. The same factor applies here as with the large pulley, I believe that they are nearly the same. This would be an issue if there is a difference with the new parts because it could affect the worm gear speed, but I am guessing that minor differences are not going to cause a big problem.
I test fit both pulleys on the free end of the axle. Both could be pushed on only a couple of mm before they started getting tight. I think that there is no question that they will have a tight fit. However since both of my original pulleys are still good I am going to keep using them and keep the new parts as a reserve.
I see no serious problems with the pulleys, with one "maybe". The original groove form is very much a V shape with a small radius at the bottom. It would seem logical that they will tend to wedge the belt into the groove, and help hold it against slipping. The new parts have a larger radius. I don't know if that is enough to make it perform less well than the original parts.
Everything else is basically cosmetic or doesn't seem that it would have any affect on function.
,James
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Next up are the worm gear axle hubs. I have only gotten started here.
Even before taking any measurements I see a couple of problems here.
First, test fitting them in the frame shows that they fit a bit loose, especially the locking hook which doesn't engage very tightly. I will take some measurements tomorrow but I think that at a minimum the hook should snap in deeper, as it is I would have worries about how securely they are fitting.
Second, the hole diameter is too small. The hubs would be a press fit on the axle as they are. I took a 2mm and then 2.1mm drill bit and hand reamed the holes and with 2.1mm they are OK.
That is as far as I got today and it is now Music-O-Clock. More tomorrow.
,
James
Even before taking any measurements I see a couple of problems here.
First, test fitting them in the frame shows that they fit a bit loose, especially the locking hook which doesn't engage very tightly. I will take some measurements tomorrow but I think that at a minimum the hook should snap in deeper, as it is I would have worries about how securely they are fitting.
Second, the hole diameter is too small. The hubs would be a press fit on the axle as they are. I took a 2mm and then 2.1mm drill bit and hand reamed the holes and with 2.1mm they are OK.
That is as far as I got today and it is now Music-O-Clock. More tomorrow.
,James