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Pioneer PL-L1000A Thread

I think the white plastic bits are acytal delrin, which shrinks as it ages and basically unglueable.
Picky(;)), but neither one of us knows for sure whether Delrin or Nylon. And in this situation it makes little difference as both can stand bathing in acetone and both are virtually unglueable.
But, just for fun :p to argue the point, from my experience with these old Pioneer parts they show characteristics more similar to Nylon than Delrin. These are: virtually no wear on small teeth and gears; brittleness and cracking consistent with Nylon; none of the distortion from shrinkage in gear teeth, small tabs and flanges one might expect to see in aging Delrin. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it :biggrin:
 
Nylon is glueable, acytal impervious and the gradual shrinkage breakage when interfaced to metal, ceramics, other stable rigids. Tach magnets in tape cartridge drive delrin spindle gears one example when they crack and jam.
Otherwise low friction and good durability for both with the nod to acytal Delrin.
 
Virtually no wear in teeth of small, 50 year old gears. A nod to Nylon. We could go on like this (Both feeling the need to be right :deal:). As I said, neither of us really know for certain.
 
Well, I think that we can all agree that they are old and are a problem area. :biggrin:

In both cases I think that one of their main attributes is to be somewhat self lubricating.

Can nylon or AD be 3D printed? Miguel (lumicrro) didn't seem to think so.

:beerchug:,
James
 
Yes, nylon can be 3-d printed - more easily than delrin.
And the final difference, and probably more of a deciding factor for Pioneer; nylon is/was cheaper than delrin.
 
Looks like I'm going to have to open my L1000 again. Been running fine. The arm has started slowing down going to rest after finishing an album. Then the arm is drifting back to the left.
 
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Well, a most interesting development.

lumicrro/Miguel just contacted me. He has now printed the entire parts set for the lift motor drive gears, including the gear shaft mounting clips/axles, pulley disks and drive gears.
In a separate listing he printed the complete lift cam set. I just ordered both sets.

Please note that I have no affiliation with him, I am passing this on strictly as an info dump for fellow PL-L1000 and A owners.
Best I recall posting direct ebay links is against forum rules. But if a person searched ebay for "vintage-hifi-revival" you should be able to find the sets. Otherwise PM me and I will provide direct links.

:beerchug:,
James

edit: I forgot to mention that Miguel wrote that he did test fit the parts on his table. Also he included 2 holes in the worm gear for installing set screws.
 
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I'm wondering if petroleum based lubricants were used back in the day and slowly ate some of the parts in question.:dunno: Just a theory.

I can buy into your theory. White lithium grease was commonly used on plastic parts for years, and everytime I had to clean off that aged ear wax I found the plastic part it was on to be brittle. Another example; I used to buy bargain lawnmowers that had plastic wheel hubs on steel axle shafts, they would get a shot of oil every now and then. Within 3-4 years the hubs would become brittle and crack or break, once I started using Superlube (ptfe, non petroleum-based lube) that problem stopped occurring.

That's all I use on plastic for lubrication now.

Think it was just mainly time and circumstances.

Also agree; ozone, plastics, and time have taken it's toll on many things I’ve owned.
 
Well, a most interesting development.

lumicrro/Miguel just contacted me. He has now printed the entire parts set for the lift motor drive gears, including the gear shaft mounting clips/axles, pulley disks and drive gears.
In a separate listing he printed the complete lift cam set. I just ordered both sets.

Please note that I have no affiliation with him, I am passing this on strictly as an info dump for fellow PL-L1000 and A owners.
Best I recall posting direct ebay links is against forum rules. But if a person searched ebay for "vintage-hifi-revival" you should be able to find the sets. Otherwise PM me and I will provide direct links.

:beerchug:,
James

edit: I forgot to mention that Miguel wrote that he did test fit the parts on his table. Also he included 2 holes in the worm gear for installing set screws.
Glad to hear this Sensei @Bratwurst7s. A glimmer of hope toward restored vintage goodness. F unobtaniums. We'll make them work somehow.
 
Glad to hear this Sensei @Bratwurst7s. A glimmer of hope toward restored vintage goodness. F unobtaniums. We'll make them work somehow.
As per cason's suggestion I really have been considering buying a 3D printer on and off since they hit the home market. Yesterday I went as far as looking around my very full hobby room and looked at what could be rearranged to free up some space.

When I think about all those old crackly Alps switches that would be easier to replace than clean if the new ones didn't have a shorter plunger than the old ones. But printing new buttons with a longer shaft would change that.

:beerchug:
 
The motor+sleeve fits very snugly in the frame. The design has extended ribs top and bottom that fit into the cutouts in the upper and lower frame sections. I had to to some careful manipulation to get it to pop into place but once done the motor in not going anywhere. The front/rear positioning is good and the belt pulleys line up.

I like this thing. I am going to call it a success.

DSC03236.JPGDSC03238.JPGDSC03239.JPGDSC03240.JPG

:beerchug:,
James
 
A couple of thoughts. I tend to be somewhat skeptical of most online sellers, at least at first, as are many of us.

So one can see the progression of my thoughts concerning lumiccro/Miguel/vintage-hifi-revival through the last couple of weeks by reading through the thread.

At this point I have decided that I like this guy. He has been very responsive to communication and has delivered. From what he has told me he is a hobby audio person like most of us and interested in helping people keeping their gear running. I am very very interested to see the rest of what he has made for my TT.

Kind of an interesting situation that I haven't had before, as I have crossed from being skeptical to being an advocate, and I don't want to break rules or cross lines.
Today I suggested to him that he should join us here. I think that he will fit in quite well.

:beerchug:,
James
 
This thread by gary7 is super informative.
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-pl-l1000-suppose-to-do-this.937557/

I am studying it concerning the left front guide rail bushing and the rear sled roller.
After looking sure enough the guide rail bushing in my table was also broken loose.
DSC03242.JPGDSC03247.JPG

I removed all of the old glue with an X-Acto knife and lightly roughened the contact surfaces with some sandpaper. I also used some gel type super glue to re-install the bushing. After checking that no glue got in the bearing area I did a test fit and then slid the rail to the right, stood the table base up on end and clamped the bushing in place.
DSC03245.JPGDSC03249.JPG

While the glue dries I am going to take an old guy after lunch nap.

:beerchug:,
James
 
Amusingly, I just now realized that the side plates supporting the guide rails are aluminum. All this time I have been thinking that they are plastic.
Even more amusing is that I did notice that everything is attached to them with machine screws and thought that it was odd that they would do that in plastic. :biggrin:

Well, I am probably not the smartest guy that you ever met.

:beerchug:,
James
 
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