Nothing wrong with stereo porn...wifey don't mind either. 


May or may not help with xfmr hum on this one. Before putting the hood back on I solder fuses to the clamps... a little blob.Hearing a slight transformer hum, but I don’t think it’s any more than I have with my CA-1010.
Thanks for the tip. I’ve never heard that one. I can try. Will report back.May or may not help with xfmr hum on this one. Before putting the hood back on I solder fuses to the clamps... a little blob.
Fuses were factory soldered on a Sansui G series piece I have. Inspired me to do it on other pieces ever since. Fuse clamps acted like a heat sink though, some added flux sped things along.Thanks for the tip. I’ve never heard that one. I can try. Will report back.
Same. Needed to add flux, that worked fine.Fuse clamps acted like a heat sink though, some added flux sped things along.
Get a humidifier.Might help with the Canadian winter static situation.
Rocks is a good word also. I didn’t think I’d hear this much of a difference over my 1010. The CA-1010 sounds awesome after my refurb, but this CA-2010 kicks it up a notch. Especially on the separation / imaging. Woofer control / impact is improved also. My expertly rebuilt (by a good friend) Kef 103.2s are just lapping up the extra control.
Regarding the phono stage caps; this is a little tougher of a comparison as I made a bit of a dogs breakfast out of my 1010 in this area.As a follow-up to an earlier post in this thread, I pulled and tested the tantalum caps in the phono section.
The 100uf 10v all tested within 5% and the 100uf 16v all tested within 1%.
I’ll be retaining these and trying to compare against my CA1010 in which these were replaced with electrolytics.
Tantalums are sensitive to handling...when in doubt buy new.All in all I think this is enough for me to backup my two cent option to retain tantalums in these positions. Respecting the original deign is enough for me, but this just backs that up. Thankfully I saved the ones from my CA-1010. I’ll be putting those back.