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Yamaha CA-2010 Restoration

Final connections made tonight. Dim bulb checked, no smoke and RELAY CLICK!

Quick bias and dc adjustment and it looks like I’m good. Hearing a slight transformer hum, but I don’t think it’s any more than I have with my CA-1010.

Proper warm up and proper adjustments to follow. IMG_2242.jpegIMG_2243.jpeg
 
Thanks for the tip. I’ve never heard that one. I can try. Will report back.
Fuses were factory soldered on a Sansui G series piece I have. Inspired me to do it on other pieces ever since. Fuse clamps acted like a heat sink though, some added flux sped things along.

Any loose xmfr to chassis mount bolts? Or broken rubber washers?
 
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The transformer didn’t have any washers, just straight steel on steel chassis. I slipped a rubber washer in there. Tightened the bolts on the transformer itself. Also added a little solder to the fuses.

No change in the very very low hum. It’s coming straight for the transformer itself, but it’s very low. I don’t think it’s an issue. It’s just that I only have a few reference points to go by in trying to figure out what a normal level of hum would be.

It seams similar to my CA-1010, I’ll know more once get the case on and listen to them next to each other.
 
Has anyone considered adding a grounded plug to one of these amps?

Might help with the Canadian winter static situation.
 
She sings:rockon: Rocks is a good word also. I didn’t think I’d hear this much of a difference over my 1010. The CA-1010 sounds awesome after my refurb, but this CA-2010 kicks it up a notch. Especially on the separation / imaging. Woofer control / impact is improved also. My expertly rebuilt (by a good friend) Kef 103.2s are just lapping up the extra control.

IMG_2281.jpeg
 
As a follow-up to an earlier post in this thread, I pulled and tested the tantalum caps in the phono section.

The 100uf 10v all tested within 5% and the 100uf 16v all tested within 1%.

I’ll be retaining these and trying to compare against my CA1010 in which these were replaced with electrolytics.
Regarding the phono stage caps; this is a little tougher of a comparison as I made a bit of a dogs breakfast out of my 1010 in this area.

I was (and very much still am) learning. Chould have done a better job on the 1010 looking back. I had Nichicon UKLs in place of the 6.3v tants and UKAs in place of the 10v. Not sure why I mixed like that. Regardless I can report much less static / fuzz on both the MC and MM stages with the tantalums in place over that combo when I turn the volume to max without playing anything.

Dynamic comparison is tougher, I’m not going to pretend like I hear a difference when using the CA-1010 as a preamp to the CA-2010 aside from the lower base noise / fuzz without stylus contact.

All in all I think this is enough for me to backup my two cent option to retain tantalums in these positions. Respecting the original deign is enough for me, but this just backs that up. Thankfully I saved the ones from my CA-1010. I’ll be putting those back.
 
All in all I think this is enough for me to backup my two cent option to retain tantalums in these positions. Respecting the original deign is enough for me, but this just backs that up. Thankfully I saved the ones from my CA-1010. I’ll be putting those back.
Tantalums are sensitive to handling...when in doubt buy new.
 
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