Yamaha cdx?
- Thread starter ojom
- Start date
VintInfinity
Tactophonic
Q-Tip and some iso worked like a charm.
the-real-mandak
Super Member
VintInfinity do also change the lube.
VintInfinity
Tactophonic
Where?
lorne
Sonic Lizard
Yeah ... where? On the sled there are grooves, and you'll find pinions and cogs that drive it here-to-there. There are shafts and rails blah blah associated with the sled. These bits are lubricated. I've used Vaseline because I have assumed that it's non-reactive with the plastics. I've also used Lithium grease. TRM can tell you more exactly where to stick it ... so to speak
the-real-mandak
Super Member
If you look at the drive of the CDX-730 you will find the lube (normal it is white).
As you can see on the pics (of a CDX-880 drive), there are some moving parts that needs lube. I marked a few of them in the first pic, but see where the lube is and change it. The drawer also needs some new lube now and then.
As you can see on the pics (of a CDX-880 drive), there are some moving parts that needs lube. I marked a few of them in the first pic, but see where the lube is and change it. The drawer also needs some new lube now and then.
Attachments
VintInfinity
Tactophonic
Thank you for the pics. Should I use white grease again, or is it ok to use a silicon/teflon type lube?
wsjoe
Well-Known Member
what's the make and model of the laser pickup unit there? Toshiba? Sony?
Just curious.
For the rails where the laser moves, I think light teflon based oil is better than grease. In Denons, I never see any lubricant here. I onlyl see lubricant on the tray gear mechanism only.
White lithium grease is fine for gears only and not on tracks, NLGI of 2 or less is best so it's not too thick. Use sparingly. For NLGI codes visit:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NLGI_Grade
Just curious.
For the rails where the laser moves, I think light teflon based oil is better than grease. In Denons, I never see any lubricant here. I onlyl see lubricant on the tray gear mechanism only.
White lithium grease is fine for gears only and not on tracks, NLGI of 2 or less is best so it's not too thick. Use sparingly. For NLGI codes visit:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NLGI_Grade
VintInfinity
Tactophonic
Is it ok to use the same teflon spray lube I would be using for the rails on the gears instead of lithium grease?
the-real-mandak
Super Member
VintInfinity
Tactophonic
Thanks for that SM page... I think I will use grease where intended.
reidcc
Active Member
Hello Real Mandak-
I tore apart my CDX-810U tonight- referenced your photos of other laser assemblies from past links, and cleaned up my laser and the lense??? under it as well. Lubed up the rails with a teflon lube, and the drawer and plastic gears with white lithium.
I am sad to report it does not play CD-R's any better or worse. I have an assortment of types- mostly the colored ones, but some silver, and even some of the HP Lightscribe's they all fail the same. For the most part the Table of Contents is seen and it tells me amount of songs. When I hit play- I get a lot of seek type noises while it searches. Eventually it times out and the display says 00 for song number.
If I hit song 2 or 3- many times it will play from there. IF I go backwards to song 1- its a 50 50 shot of playing the first time. When I skip ahead a track at a time- I again get a lot of seek/search type noises- but mostly it will play.
Am I SOL on getting this beautiful player to do CD-R's????
Thx
Chris
the-real-mandak
Super Member
I know the problem, I had the same with the 880 in the pics. I changed the laser and all problems where gone, sometimes a cleaning is not enough and the 710 is from 1988 so maybe a new laser is due to fix the problem.
It can also be that an adjustment can fix it, but do NOT try this unles you have the right tools to do so + the SM.
It can also be that an adjustment can fix it, but do NOT try this unles you have the right tools to do so + the SM.
VintInfinity
Tactophonic
Sometimes using different media and burners will make CD-Rs that are readable on stubborn drives... hit or miss though, no idea what is a good combo.
reidcc
Active Member
Well Thanks Guys-
Over the last 5 years that I tried getting this thing working on CD-R's- I have been through at least 6 or 7 different burners, with a variety of media. The common denominator is that I always burned as slow as I could... right now though I am burning at 12.0
Thx
Chris
Over the last 5 years that I tried getting this thing working on CD-R's- I have been through at least 6 or 7 different burners, with a variety of media. The common denominator is that I always burned as slow as I could... right now though I am burning at 12.0
Thx
Chris
VintInfinity
Tactophonic
I guess the old CDP's just arent up to it.. I know my CDX-730 won't play most if not all. I may have gotten one to play, but I don't recall for sure.
TheRealMandak - what type of new laser does one put into a CDX player?
TheRealMandak - what type of new laser does one put into a CDX player?
the-real-mandak
Super Member
You use a replacement laser, the CDX-730 has the KSS-150A made by Sony. So you need to get one of those.
VintInfinity
Tactophonic
Thank you, I will look into the cost of one of those. I should probably put any $$ into a DAC and use my PS3 though, I hear it is a pretty good transport. Uses more power than a CDP though.
lorne
Sonic Lizard
I'm wondering about buying a second CDX — the current one being a 1020. How does a 890 for $150 sound? Is the pricer right? Does anyone have a pic of the innards besides the transport shown in this thread? It uses Pro Bit as opposed to the HiBit in the 1090. Any info would be cool.
IMHO $150 is to much..I got a CDX-930 for a whole lot less than that. But maybe in Japan thats a fair price..
