Yamaha cdx?

[lorne]

Thanks! I am thinking the same thing. But you have a point. Check out HiFiDo and you'll see that "vintage" CDP's with a rep are a big bill. They may come cheaper on Yahoo Japan, but with HiFiDo you can't go wrong in terms of how they will stand by their product. If I can't find the richer side of CDX, I may hang a Monica-3 DAC on my Sansui alpha607i. My CDX-1020 is marvellous ... works a treat! But I want another CDP in my system.

 

[the-real-mandak]

The CDX-890 is pritty much the same as the 880, they bough run the 514F DAC witch Yamaha used just about up until today (they might still use it). Even it is a smaller model than the 1020 I think it will outperform it, but $150 is a bit on the high end.

I did not know the post 1060 models was sold in Japan, I thought they were Europe only since they were manufactured in france.

If you can hold back a bit and acumulate a little ekstra money, try to get the CDX-993. That is Yamahas best CDP since the older monster models and also the last of the big ones.

 

[lorne]

Thanks TRM ... yep, HiFiDo has it in one of their stores down south of here.

 

[Mr Bishop]

I have a Yamaha CDX-1030 purchased when new and have been thinking about replacing it with something new and updated(DAC). From reading this thread though, the consensus seems to be that the CDX series is quite unique and special. Now my unit also has the same problem as this poster has stated:

" I have a Yamaha CDX-1030 that works great but for some reason the transport mechanism brings in the CD but only raises the hinged lower half part way which doesn't allow it to close on the CD.
Steve"

My questions are, should I upgrade or simply fix my problem with the transport and how good is the sound from my unit?
Currently I am using the player as a music transport being fed to a Yamaha RX- V1500 receiver, my logic being that the Dacs would be far superior as it is newer and in the upper range of the RX-V series.

BTW, what a great site this is, I never tire from the net.

 

[avionic]

I would fix your 1030..Sounds like a worn out(stretched) loading belt.

 

[Mark B]

Thanks TRM ... yep, HiFiDo has it in one of their stores down south of here.

There's a CDX-10000 on HiFiDo......

 

[lorne]

Good call Mark, but aside from the fact that it is being negotiated, I am not quite ready for a divorce I'd surely love one of those babies.

 

[the-real-mandak]

My questions are, should I upgrade or simply fix my problem with the transport and how good is the sound from my unit?
Currently I am using the player as a music transport being fed to a Yamaha RX- V1500 receiver, my logic being that the Dacs would be far superior as it is newer and in the upper range of the RX-V series.

How good the sound from the CDX-1030 is can only you answer, since it has to fulfill you're demands. But if you would like to try another player, look for the CDX-1120/2020, 1060 or 993 (if you are loaded go for the new SACD player CD-S2000). Here the 1120/2020 is older than you're player, but it brings us to the next Q. The sound is not only the DAC, the analouge part of the player, power supply and clock playes just as big a part of the sound. So even that the DAC of the CDX-1120 is older than the one in the CDX-1030, the rest is so much better that it still outperforms it (this also goes for the receiver). But be awere that spear parts is a problem with the 1120/2020.

You might also try one of the CDX-8xx series from 880 and up, they all run with the 514F DAC.

 

[Mr Bishop]

I had the same trouble once in another brand, so I used the rib end of a condom — unused I may add. It worked for a couple of years until a pro-techie roared his head off and then proceeded to install one that he had in stock.

I have just tried this myself (also unused condom) and it worked, fixed my closing door problem on my CDX-1030 player. The old belt looks like it has lost some of its 'Give' and is shiny on the inside, it explains why it slips and fails to shut the drawer properly. Interesting to see just how long this fix lasts.

 

[Mr Bishop]

Just replaced the above with the genuine article from Yamaha, it merely cost me $10. A lot of effort required though to replace this belt. The entire transport needs to be removed in order to do the job. Now works like new.

 

[lorne]

Just replaced the above with the genuine article from Yamaha, it merely cost me $10.

OK guy, confess!!! Where did the belt come from? We have ways of making you talk ...

 

[biggal76]

I am having huge trouble with CDX 2000. It works fine for about 10 minutes. Then the display shuts off and none of the buttons work. I turn it off for a minute and then back on. It will work for a few minutes then the same thing. Is this problem worth fixing? I really like the player when it's working. I don't know whether to try to have it serviced or sell for parts.

 

[the-real-mandak]

Yes, it is worth fixing.

To me it sounds like a bad soldering in the power supply to the control board/circits, but I'm not a pro.

 

[Mr Bishop]

OK guy, confess!!! Where did the belt come from? We have ways of making you talk ...

Got it from here, http://www.zamtek.com.au/ which is an authorised YAMAHA service centre here in Melbourne Australia.

 

[lorne]

Thanks Mr Bishop. The URL is logged in my 'parts' folder/

 

[lorne]

CDX 2000. It works fine for about 10 minutes. Then the display shuts off and none of the buttons work. I turn it off for a minute and then back on. It will work for a few minutes then same thing.

I am siding with TRM. And I do agree with him: it IS worth saving! Even if you can only imagine using it as a transport with a cool outboard DAC in the future, it is worth your looking at your main power supply and asking yourself how much you would have to spend just to duplicate that section in a replacement.

Well that's one take on it. And it is one I've had practical issues with — making cost analysis in respect to quality build as opposed to more recent electronics that are within a given budget. My current thought is that an upscale transport is a passsport to some other options.

One thing to consider is the possibility of replacing the laser head. These
have a life-span. Any investment should be evaluated in terms of the cost replacement of the laser head. And throw in the possibility of replacing 20 plus year old capacitors. Some people refer to the so-called 20 year rule. Most capacitors have theoretically out-lived their best specification by that point. But let's quickly leave that oftentimes contentious point.

By way of example, my CDX 1020 has a laser-head that is very difficult to find — not to mention the $200 to buy a fresh one. What to do in a similar situation? Perhaps you are more fortunate. I've not searched for the replacement part on a 2000. Keep in mind what the intrinsic value of the unit is. Over at HiFiDo and Yahoo Japan, they are asking big bucks for some of these CDX models.

Here is one way of dealing with your specific problem — just short of taking it in to a service center: Do you DIY? Can you identify the servo-control section on your CDX board. Can you change out capacitors. If so, find some nice caps — an upgrade from stock, say. Change out the caps on the servo-control section and reflow solder on all the joints in that section. If you intend to keep the unit, you can't lose. If this does not cure the problem, you are still ahead of the game. It will come back from the professionals with the problem fixed and it will have some fresh caps to help keep it an honest player for the next decade or so .... Add in more fresh caps over time.

At very least, get a good magnifier and a bright light and check each solder pad in the relevant path. And wear a grounding strap to protect the chips. This may seem a bit far-fetched to you, but that is my meddling, amateurish two cents. It is what I might do in the same situation, even though I've destroyed a couple of lesser players in my DIY adventures.

 

[Yamahalic]

Yamaha CDX-1110u anyone know this or have any comments about it, perhaps compared to a current mid-fi CDP?

I think it is an awesome unit. I have the CDX-2000, and they are pretty similar as far as I can tell. If you ever cannot open the disk drawer, a fairly common issue, it may be due to a drive belt (more like an o-ring) slipping in the unit (may have streched). Fairly easy to fix.

 

[bekim]

Cdx-1100

Hello everyone

I hope this is the right thread to address issue for Yamaha CDX-1100.

I purchase CDX-1100 player with bad laser unit and, now I have receive new MLP7 laser unit which I replaced the old one. Now, the new laser plays good, but there are some issues with it;
1. It is told to me, because I never had working CDX-1100 before, that it scans cd's very fast - the TOC, this one is doing normally like other players,
2. When I press play button, it starts 1st track somewhere in middle, or maybe 54-57secs or near to the end of the 1st track,
3. If player plays i.e. track nr.3 and I press skip to next one, or whatever track, I have to wait up to 8-9 secs until it starts playing, and sometimes happen to start in middle of the selected track or in the end of track before of the track which I choose.

When i disassemble the mechanism, I saw heated solder joints in one ic in the pcb beneath the mechanism where HF amp is, and i think that ic is SLA XX-something - didn't check..
This player is in very good cosmetic shape and, very musical, I would like to fix it if possible. Anyone has any idea, suggestion, service manual or advice please, let me know.

Thank you
bekim

 

[Mark B]

Hello everyone

I hope this is the right thread to address issue for Yamaha CDX-1100.

I purchase CDX-1100 player with bad laser unit and, now I have receive new MLP7 laser unit which I replaced the old one. Now, the new laser plays good, but there are some issues with it;
1. It is told to me, because I never had working CDX-1100 before, that it scans cd's very fast - the TOC, this one is doing normally like other players,
2. When I press play button, it starts 1st track somewhere in middle, or maybe 54-57secs or near to the end of the 1st track,
3. If player plays i.e. track nr.3 and I press skip to next one, or whatever track, I have to wait up to 8-9 secs until it starts playing, and sometimes happen to start in middle of the selected track or in the end of track before of the track which I choose.

When i disassemble the mechanism, I saw heated solder joints in one ic in the pcb beneath the mechanism where HF amp is, and i think that ic is SLA XX-something - didn't check..
This player is in very good cosmetic shape and, very musical, I would like to fix it if possible. Anyone has any idea, suggestion, service manual or advice please, let me know.

Thank you
bekim

Sorry about the problem you're having with the CDX-1100.

How about some info on the source for the new MLP-7? Those laser blocks have been NLA (no longer available) for years.

 

[bekim]

Sorry about the problem you're having with the CDX-1100.

How about some info on the source for the new MLP-7? Those laser blocks have been NLA (no longer available) for years.

Hi

I got this laser from Hungary. Yes, it is new, also i think they still have on stock, as far as I understand Samsung is producing them now. I have friend who was there and pick it for me because, that store will not sell online as well will not ship abroad.

I hope someone knows how to fix my Yamaha, sounds very analog, maybe service manual or someone who is experienced with yamahas can help.


best,
bekim