Yes, and that play would have to be in the motor/shaft since you are not rocking the platter itself.
Yes, and that play would have to be in the motor/shaft since you are not rocking the platter itself.
lJelal
Member
I did try this, but i could not find any spot where it made a difference.
Can you please remove the platter, start the motor by pushing the < button and then just letting it sit there spinning. Now, take a short video of the spindle and let us see what that looks like. This may provide more/better information upon which to diagnose what is going on.
Perhaps also pile something up beside it and lay a scribe across that barely touches the top o the spindle. This will make clear how much deflection there is and is it always at the same point of rotation.
Can't see any wobble, but due to the geometry, any runout in the shaft is probably multiplied tenfold or perhaps much more.
Can you put something up to it that is sharp edged and keep it steady. A small carpenter's square comes to mind, and put a spacer under the far end to get the side by the spindle nearly parallel to the brass (Morse?) taper and very close, a couple thousands of an inch. You could put a Trump-mark (sharpie line) on it to get aware of where in rotation the runout is if there is.
It's much easier to see any variance when the window is real small.
If there is no detectable runout, try greasing the taper and, with the motor not running, rotate the platter with a similar runout gauge to see if it's in the platter.
(that's unlikely but possible I guess)
But now, I'm recalling that you were able to rock the spindle shaft in the motor housing. If that's the case I hunch the motor's somehow worn.
Can you put something up to it that is sharp edged and keep it steady. A small carpenter's square comes to mind, and put a spacer under the far end to get the side by the spindle nearly parallel to the brass (Morse?) taper and very close, a couple thousands of an inch. You could put a Trump-mark (sharpie line) on it to get aware of where in rotation the runout is if there is.
It's much easier to see any variance when the window is real small.
If there is no detectable runout, try greasing the taper and, with the motor not running, rotate the platter with a similar runout gauge to see if it's in the platter.
(that's unlikely but possible I guess)
But now, I'm recalling that you were able to rock the spindle shaft in the motor housing. If that's the case I hunch the motor's somehow worn.
lJelal
Member
I went searching deeper... I found some interesting things...
I seem to have a missing washer. I was very careful removing. I don't think I lost it myself. The plastic feels quite brittle on the remaining 2. Will replace all 3.
I have a broken BMC plinth prong. I don't think anything can be done about that.
I also feel like the spindle needs lubrication to be able to turn more freely, but I have no idea how to get in there to lubricate it.
I seem to have a missing washer. I was very careful removing. I don't think I lost it myself. The plastic feels quite brittle on the remaining 2. Will replace all 3.
I have a broken BMC plinth prong. I don't think anything can be done about that.
I also feel like the spindle needs lubrication to be able to turn more freely, but I have no idea how to get in there to lubricate it.
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lJelal
Member
Looking at the bottom of the platter - I see some suspicious things.
There are 4 circular indentions with scratches over them & one circular protrusion that is partially smoothed. Also next to the protrusion, it is beveled near the finger hole. Is this normal? I was wondering if these are platter defects that could be causing the wobble.
There are 4 circular indentions with scratches over them & one circular protrusion that is partially smoothed. Also next to the protrusion, it is beveled near the finger hole. Is this normal? I was wondering if these are platter defects that could be causing the wobble.
Attachments
Think those are cast mark positions, for Yamaha to balance the platter at the factory assembly line.
plugto
Well-Known Member
I've had a Yamaha PX-3 rotting away in my closet for over 20 years. Could be more. Only problem was when started the tonearm had to have a slight nudge to go to the record. I finally sent it off to the Professor for a total fix. I contacted him 7 months ago and he told me he was swamped and get back to him in 3 months. This time he is taking it in. I just saw one sell for 1300$ on Ebay for parts. It wasn't tested but the seller thought it was old new stock. I will let you guys know how it comes out when it is done. It will be months.
He's going to fix the feet too. The rubber just rotted out and the spring and bolt are not held in place anymore.
He's going to fix the feet too. The rubber just rotted out and the spring and bolt are not held in place anymore.
plugto
Well-Known Member
I inherited mine from a younger brother in law that overdosed. Sad. He got into a car accident and sued the insurance company. They gave him a fat check and he bought a killer system. His leg got messed up and he took painkillers for a while, and with all that money he got cocaine too. So he mixed codeine, and coke, and alcohol. That was it. He used the TT for about 2 months before he passed. His parents didn't listen to music so they told me to take it. I used it for about 5 months and got into CDs. Then it went into storage for ever.
I'm glad you are happy with the Professor's work. We are lucky that someone is still around that knows how to fix these TTs.
I just got an email from Alan because his address is posted on the Webstore and he is freaking out about it. I shipped the TT yesterday and it should be there by Thursday.
Enjoy the machine!!
I'm glad you are happy with the Professor's work. We are lucky that someone is still around that knows how to fix these TTs.
I just got an email from Alan because his address is posted on the Webstore and he is freaking out about it. I shipped the TT yesterday and it should be there by Thursday.
Enjoy the machine!!
It's a Hell of a thing to ship, isn't it ?