• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Yamaha PX-2 - Starting My Journey

I contemplated sending it to Florida almost 8 years ago, but I insisted that the professor do a video on YouTube to show how to do it safely. He just said the instructions are clear. So I finally just tried it. It isn't as bad as I thought. And with following his step by step it went along just fine. The use of extra thick foam is so protective. I got a box at Home Depot, a wardrobe box 24X24X45. Of course it was way to tall. I just cut it down and it was super thick walls. It was totally surrounded with foam. Nice and tight. I insured it for 1500$. That's about the worth of it in a fixed condition.
I guess Alan is worried about uninvited visitors LOL That would suck having someone come to your door. Too many weirdos on the internet like me o_O
 
So... getting another PX-2 platter seems difficult without paying for an entire second unit. Any other known compatible replacement options?

I did acquire an AT666 for help dealing with warped records. It is too tall however. So I either need a slightly thinner platter or I thought about reducing the length of the shaft by a few mm to provide for adequate clearance. I would prefer a thinner platter for obvious reasons. Please provide thoughts or suggestions.
 

Attachments

  • Platter Depth.jpg
    Platter Depth.jpg
    35.4 KB · Views: 16
  • Platter Diameter.jpg
    Platter Diameter.jpg
    64.2 KB · Views: 14
  • Spindle Diameter.jpg
    Spindle Diameter.jpg
    74.4 KB · Views: 14
  • AT666 Depth.jpg
    AT666 Depth.jpg
    73.1 KB · Views: 14
^^^ So I have this correct... you want to replace the stock platter so you can use the AT666 to provide a vacuum for warped records? Assuming you have the arm at the upper most of the available height? Dump the AT666 and use a weight or clamp for warped records. Seems like you are looking for a solution that doesn't exist and for a situation that, for most, is an exception and not the norm. If this is your norm then it's time to upgrade your collection. :dunno:
 
yes, the built in VTA is at max.

Since my platter is already warped i was considering getting a replacement. if there was another platter that would kill 2 birds with one stone that is what i would like to achieve. for example, a thinner platter would be great.
 
I can't believe that aluminum can bend or warp. It is very stiff metal. And I think you could take it to a fabrication metal shop and they can check it for balance and make you a new one exactly like it. I wonder if they can spin it like a tire shop and see any warpness or out of balanceness? Excuse the made up words LOL And how heavy is the weight? You don't want to stress out the platter motor.
 
So... getting another PX-2 platter seems difficult without paying for an entire second unit. Any other known compatible replacement options?

I did acquire an AT666 for help dealing with warped records. It is too tall however. So I either need a slightly thinner platter or I thought about reducing the length of the shaft by a few mm to provide for adequate clearance. I would prefer a thinner platter for obvious reasons. Please provide thoughts or suggestions.
I 'm sorry for being blunt . But after reading your messages , I have full confidence that you will kill this Yamaha completely ....
 
A while ago you posted a video that showed movement in the assy while not turning which must be play in the motor.
Then it was noted by another how noisy your motor is when spun.

Your motor is the problem.

Thanks for the helpful response. I was going by what Dr Ear indicated most recently in this thread that the platter is the source of the issue as no one seemed to refute that. I will investigate the motor further.
 
Just got an email from the Professor that my TT is done and it was in good shape other than slippage and bearings a little off. He is sending it back this Monday. This is the way to go to get it done right.
 
I have acquired a PX-2 which is in very good shape except the arm left / right movement was, of course, stalling. I flipped & reversed the arm belts. I also tried to add a bit more tension & grip by placing a rubber piece (see Motor Belts image) on the motor. The previous owner apparently tried to fix the problem by adding another belt.

After putting everything back together, the arm moves up & down with buttons, but neither auto nor manual left / right movement of the arm works. Manually turning the motor wheel moves the arm fine. Please advise on best approach for troubleshooting. Also, please check the purple pointers. The yellow stuff looks out of place to me.

Alright I think you need to stop going it alone. I am sure you are capable, but, this is a good, very good TT and it deserves to get done right. Probably worth 2000$ to 2500$ so you have something to be proud of. And you are lucky to get one that tracks straight like the way records were cut. I hope you won't be offended by me posting some positive news. I like you do everything myself, and most times I am successful but expensive valuable items I will let an expert do it for me. The professor is a guy that has parts and mad skill and he is one of the only techs out there that has mastered these rare SLT TTs. Do your self a favor and let him save this rare TT and bring it back to perfection.
I just unboxed my TT and tested it today so I wanted to share some pics and my experience.

20211105_181742.jpg

So this is a PERFECT box to ship with. Super thick corrugated cardboard, plenty of room for padding and when you cut it down to the proper height there is several pieces of extra
cardboard to layer the bottom and top for extra protection. I can't share all the packing methods because Alan has copyrights on his PDFs of instructions. Just let me say that I was hesitant to ship because I thought the TT would get destroyed in the mail. The Professor's method works. This is the wardrobe box at Home Depot. 17$.

20211108_105113.jpg

So this is setting up the TT and just balancing the feet. Alan repaired the rotted out rubber feet for me for free.

20211108_121305.jpg

So after 4 albums and using all the controls the TT performed flawlessly. The old gal is back to life.

20211108_121345.jpg

So guys I hope you see something that is important. I just hung the OLED display in the background myself, but like I said some things are fussy, and these tables are that way.
If you ever get lucky enough to shag one of these TTs then treat it like an investment and get it done right. They are rare, sound better than most, and are worth the money!!
 
Awesome! I'm really happy for you. What did he do in the servicing? Did it require any replacement of the electronics components such as capacitors?
 
He fixed the slippage at start up. The tonearm would not travel towards the record unless I gave it a little nudge. He replaced the 3 small drive belts as you can see, they weren't broke but I can feel them and they are certainly dried out and could have gone at any time. He adjusted the bearings. His service is listed on his webstore site. Also he fixed the feet that had all the rubber rot out for free. Here is his words in an email he sent me.

Mostly it was just the normal slipping drive issues. But at the end it gave me a hard time with the stylus not placing back in the same groove as it was up cued from. No turntable gets that 100% right though. It's just that yours was more problematic than the usual PX-3. This one factor is the only issue I'm not completely happy with. I did try to correct it and did make progress, but some of this remains. I hope you are OK with that.


Your tonearm's vertical bearings were not adjusted correctly from the factory. That is now corrected.


Your PX-3 was in good shape otherwise.


I don't have any stickers at this time. Signing the plinth will reduce resale value, so I don't want to do that. Maybe the bottom cover....

He did put a plaque on the bottom stating that the TT was modified and repaired by him. He really is the best tech for these old TTs.

If you decide to hire him and want to ship yours out I will share the wardrobe box dimensions that I modified it to. It is a perfect super tight and thickly padded solution for the fragile TT. Good luck with your TT and make sure you share the end result back here for all of us to learn and enjoy!!:beerchug:
 
@plugto
"Alright I think you need to stop going it alone. I am sure you are capable, but, this is a good, very good TT and it deserves to get done right. Probably worth 2000$ to 2500$ so you have something to be proud of.

If you ever get lucky enough to shag one of these TTs then treat it like an investment and get it done right. They are rare, sound better than most, and are worth the money!!"

I don't know what to make of this :)
I just sold a near mint PX2 with everything that came with it new down to the packings aAND an Adcom VDH II cartridge for $1500. I thought that would be a good current value :(

Oh well, I still have another one............





which is definitely NOT for sale!
 
Last edited:
index.php

plugto, I wonder if the heavy CW add-ons might serve you. Your main CW is pretty far away from the fulcrum which adds a good bit of effective mass. Depending on how compliant that cartridge is the arm resonance may be getting too low? I'd be curious to know.
 
index.php

plugto, I wonder if the heavy CW add-ons might serve you. Your main CW is pretty far away from the fulcrum which adds a good bit of effective mass. Depending on how compliant that cartridge is the arm resonance may be getting too low? I'd be curious to know.

I still have all the specs on the cartridge so I will dig it out for you tomorrow and send a pic. The resonance of the arm I am sure I can find somewhere as well. Perhaps in the owners manual. I am thinking of getting a different cartridge and a platform for the TT from Iso Acoustics

https://isoacoustics.com/home-audio-isolation-products/zazen-series/

A little pricey for the 2, but I like any and all improvements. I would love to rent a Laser Vibrometer to actually see the physical resonance of the arm. They can be rented.
B&W uses it in cabinet measurements. Can measure cone breakup on speakers past 50,000 hz. I AM crazy but NOT rich enough to go all the way LOL

If you got the time these people have the tools and training.
https://www.polytec.com/us/vibrometry/products/service-support/polylab
https://www.polytec.com/fileadmin/w...IMAC-2021-10436-validating-complex-models.pdf
Read pg. 12

https://www.polytec.com/us/vibrometry/areas-of-application
These are the toys I want for Christmas LOL
 
still have all the specs on the cartridge so I will dig it out for you tomorrow and send a pic. The resonance of the arm I am sure I can find somewhere as well. Perhaps in the owners manual. I am thinking of getting a different cartridge and a platform for the TT from Iso Acoustics

The resonance of the arm is a function of it's "effective mass" (what mass the stylus sees/works against as it moves in the groove) and the compliance of the cartridge. This is a bit of a simplification but covers 99% of reality) The closer a mass is to the fulcrum of an arm or lever, the less it is expressed. Think of swinging a big softball bat two ways.

The greater the effectiveness mass, the lower the resonant frequency. (lower mass/higher freq)
The stiffer the cartridge's suspension (lower compliance) the higher the resonant freq (higher compliance=lower frequency)

The PXs come with a pair of heavier counterweights to put where the little side mounted knurled screws are, as in your photo. They make the CW (Counter Weight) heavier so it can balance the arm nearer to it's fulcrum. Using them would move the CW closer to it's fulcrum and decrease the effective mass (ironic: adding mass reduces effective mass, but it does because of the physics of levers and masses) Unless the CW became too heavy and couldn't be moved close enough to balance because it hits the frame of the arm base).

Doing this may or may not improve the situation, depending on your cartridge's compliance.
Conventional wisdom is that we want an arm resonance of 8-12Hz(?)
Keeping it in the sweet spot reduces acoustic feedback and concerns like foot-falls exciting your woofers.
The simplest way to see what is happening is to use a test record like Analogue Productions "Ultimate Analog Test LP". Using the right track as it sweeps through some low frequencies, sometimes you can actually see the stylus skiz out. Or you'll hear the distortion as it mistracks. You can put an AC voltmeter on the output, whether at speaker terminals or REC Out, and watch the output; if you make a little graph, you'll see just where it resonates/higher voltage. And if you're real curious, an oscilloscope is informative.
And there's much more you can check with this disk.

There will be no spec for arm resonance, just information about it's effective mass which must include the weight of the cartridge, and, in the case of arms tensioned by a slider/weight, that as well. (springs, like my old Dual 1009 don't increase mass)
A somewhat reliable way to figure what your arms effective mass is, is to remove the CW and zero the TF (Tracking Force), and, with the arm parallel to the platter and the stylus on the deck of a little digital scale, see what weight is present.
This method is not real accurate but is close enough for most people. Its also real quick and easy!

There's all kinds of protocols for calculating resonant frequency with the effective mass and compliance known, but the test record doesn't lie and is quick and easy too.
 
Last edited:
I do have the extra larger threaded counter weights. The first picture you see with the counter weight too far back and the big gap is before I zero balanced it. Now it did come closer, and I think the addition of the larger ones would make the zero balance impossible with the cartridge being too light. After I got the plinth balanced using the feet, I then had to read the instructions on how to get the tonearm to float. It has been decades since I set it up. After following the instructions I was able to get the perfect zero balance. Then I slid the small weight on the tonearm forward to the manufactures recommendation using the painted graduations. I don't own any test records, or cartridge weight scales. That I think would be much more accurate. Way back in the day I originally owned a Thorens TD150 or 160. I can't remember but it was one of those. I used to zero balance the tonearm and then move the dial to 0. Then I would turn it to the suggested cartridge weight according to the dial on the counter weight, and the anti skating was a system of weights on a nylon string much like fishing line. Back then I had good hearing and could hear distortion in one channel and increase the anti skating force until the distortion would swing towards the other channel. When I got it centered and not right or left I would make a final tiny adjustment on the counter weight until it was as low as I could hear it. There is sooooo much I have to learn about TTs I got away from them and got into optical discs. Now it is mainly going back down memory lane. I did consider upgrading to a MC cartridge but the Marantz is limited in the phono sec. I do have a nice Yamaha A1000 integrated amp in the cellar that has several options in the phono sec. I am so old and tired of all the changes in the media and having to go out and get the same source in the new and improved format. I just don't have the cash. I was married at 20 and had 2 kids at 23 so I was always working and struggling. Real nice gear was out of reach for me. I filled the void with trips to Harvard Square in Cambridge on weekends and aggravating the sales people by playing and auditioning all the gear. I read magazines front to back to get an education and always settled for mid fi because of income. The poor mans weekend trip to the Stereo stores and record stores after sparking up.
Did have enough to get one album a week LOL. I am insulted at the price of vinyl now. I have seen 30$ for a medium that gets scratched, pops and ticks, no matter how careful, limited bandwidth in the grooves, and variation on geometry when the arm swings. So many little problems. I have heard some vinyl sound better on the same music as a disc, but who knows why? The engineer? The equipment? No hard a fast standards. I do miss the album cover art work. The memories fade year after year like my hearing LOL. But thanks for the information it is very interesting and I know you are trying to help get better sound. So thanks.
Now if we can just gang up on the OP and convince him to send his TT to a pro then I would smile a little wider :):beerchug:
 
Back
Top Bottom