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Sounds like you must be pretty frustrated by now, understandably so.....using a wire brush is not a good idea as the mechanism was designed to operate the way it is.
If there is slippage, it might be that the plastic wheel is still too slick due to another, perhaps undiscernable substance on it that may have been applied (wrongly) by a previous owner so ensure that it is absolutely clean and free of any other detritus.
If it still slips, then there is somehow too much resistance from the movement of the belt (large rubber transport belt with the springs) causing the drive wheel to slip. Look at the entire transport mechanism to make sure everything is clean....e.g. the rails that the small white plastic wheels ride on, as well as watching it to see if there may be a point at which the resistance increases for some reason and then find a way to resolve that. It's been mentioned before but I really think this is something you would best contact Professor Bizzt who specializes in these tables. You can find his store here: https://www.ebay.ph/usr/professor-bizzt and send him a message (see the Contact link) to see if he can help you out, but be aware that he does this for a living and may want you to just send it to him for repairs. The upside of that is you will have a like-new PX-2, and that is one very fine turntable!
Sorry that there doesn't seem to be a simple fix, but you've already corrected some things that were out of spec so stay with it. As others have also said, DO NOT START MODIFYING THE ORIGINAL DESIGN OF THINGS as this will lead you down a road that you will unlikely be able to recover from without sourcing parts and that isn't easy.....aside from the springs that have been messed with and the strange belt arrangement that you already put back to stock form, your tt is probably still in pretty much original condition.
If there is slippage, it might be that the plastic wheel is still too slick due to another, perhaps undiscernable substance on it that may have been applied (wrongly) by a previous owner so ensure that it is absolutely clean and free of any other detritus.
If it still slips, then there is somehow too much resistance from the movement of the belt (large rubber transport belt with the springs) causing the drive wheel to slip. Look at the entire transport mechanism to make sure everything is clean....e.g. the rails that the small white plastic wheels ride on, as well as watching it to see if there may be a point at which the resistance increases for some reason and then find a way to resolve that. It's been mentioned before but I really think this is something you would best contact Professor Bizzt who specializes in these tables. You can find his store here: https://www.ebay.ph/usr/professor-bizzt and send him a message (see the Contact link) to see if he can help you out, but be aware that he does this for a living and may want you to just send it to him for repairs. The upside of that is you will have a like-new PX-2, and that is one very fine turntable!
Sorry that there doesn't seem to be a simple fix, but you've already corrected some things that were out of spec so stay with it. As others have also said, DO NOT START MODIFYING THE ORIGINAL DESIGN OF THINGS as this will lead you down a road that you will unlikely be able to recover from without sourcing parts and that isn't easy.....aside from the springs that have been messed with and the strange belt arrangement that you already put back to stock form, your tt is probably still in pretty much original condition.
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lJelal
Member
Thanks. I'm not terribly frustrated, but I am just unsure of why the belt is slipping. Since my springs are questionable, I am not sure if it will even be possible to get it back into spec. Of course, I also don't want to do something that will destroy my precious PX-2 - that is for certain. It is in very good condition for the most part.
Unfortunately, Prof Bizzt has at least a 3 month wait right now.
It seems like his belt would solve my problem but he does not sell them separately from his service. His advice is not to DIY, but I really want to get this working.
How can I remove the wheel from the metal harness to thoroughly clean it? I cleaned it with a toothbrush and alcohol but there is still some white-ish residue on that belt turning wheel. Perhaps the previous owner tried to apply something sticky there... That's what made me think of trying the wire brush also - to try to remove that residue.
Unfortunately, Prof Bizzt has at least a 3 month wait right now.
It seems like his belt would solve my problem but he does not sell them separately from his service. His advice is not to DIY, but I really want to get this working.How can I remove the wheel from the metal harness to thoroughly clean it? I cleaned it with a toothbrush and alcohol but there is still some white-ish residue on that belt turning wheel. Perhaps the previous owner tried to apply something sticky there... That's what made me think of trying the wire brush also - to try to remove that residue.
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Not sure about removing the wheel but it looks identical to the one in my PX-3. I don't remember seeing what looks like a roughed up surface, but I'd have to take mine apart to see which I don't have the time to do at the moment. Maybe someone else with one of these could comment on what they see?
Your remedies seem kind of hackish, be patient.
In my opinion, the only way to REALLY diagnose these drives is with the tonearm assy removed from the deck but still plugged in to the boards. Then you can absolutely see what the problem is and avoid a lot of this internet patter!!
check with the belts connected! I haven't seen where you have confirmed that the belt slips <or> the motor doesn't work at the power supplied by the deck with belts connected!
You mention an RC tire. That was a McGuyver someone implemented when the shaft with serrated end that turns the final drive drum over a rubber wheel on it's end was slipping on the rubber wheel. That is always a possibility with these decks but I've never had to take such a solution for it.
If the motor works @2.85V and the belt slips, and you're concerned about the traction at the drive drum, you can take some #320 3M wet/dry automotive sandpaper, curve it around the face of the drum, and stroke it coaxially putting horizontal scratches across the rims. Do only a little/enough to take off the surface. Now the drum can't have any crap on it!
If it still slips, do what I did 10? years ago: get some genuine latex gloves and try spray belt dressing(s) on it. Leave it on for a week or so, and if the rubber doesn't now fall apart when you stretch it, don't use it! If it doesn't deteriorate, it's probably fine. IME a very thin layer of such a belt spray is very effective. (try a little petroleum based motor oil in a latex glove finger and see how long it takes to corrupt the latex, to get an idea of what this test is about!)
SPRAY BELT DRESSINGS, NOT SPRAY GLUE!! I wasn't really thinking when I typed glue
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lJelal
Member
So I think I finally figured it out. I used a brass wire polishing brush to clean the wheels which worked fine, but while doing that I noticed that the wheel that turns the big belt was experiencing more resistance every so often. I widened the housing ever so slightly and put wd-40 on all the shafts. After that, the inconsistent resistance was gone. So far it is working perfectly.
Nice! I had a hunch that resistance was the issue, but I was thinking more about the large belt encountering some sort of snag.....good work! Now I'm scratching my head regarding how that housing might have become narrowed, especially given the condition you described the rest of the table to be in. Not sure I would have chosen WD-40, probably would have gone with something like sewing machine oil or electric motor oil.....just the same, it works so that's the main thing!
WD-40 is the wrong thing to use, it turns to rubbery glop in a while.
There are a number of correct lubricants to use, but I use synthetic clock oil in those sorts of locations. Never oxidizes, doesn't migrate around, very good lubrication since it's designed to lubricate steel running on synthetic sapphire "jewels"
Sewing machine oil is also a good choice.
Use a thin pointed metal device of some sort to deliver the oil exactly and only where you want it, oil on the plastic wheels or belts will be a serious mess in a year or so.
There are a number of correct lubricants to use, but I use synthetic clock oil in those sorts of locations. Never oxidizes, doesn't migrate around, very good lubrication since it's designed to lubricate steel running on synthetic sapphire "jewels"
Sewing machine oil is also a good choice.
Use a thin pointed metal device of some sort to deliver the oil exactly and only where you want it, oil on the plastic wheels or belts will be a serious mess in a year or so.
You're quite welcome....sometimes we have to resist the urge to just try something and wind up forcing some issue that only makes matters worse. Tables like the PX-2 and PX-3 are pretty delicate and need to be restored as much as possible to the original state/spec after which they work as intended. Trouble is, there are few of us that have the expertise to achieve such standards and we are lucky to have individuals here on AK who give freely of their knowledge to guide us. And ideally, we all, eventually, come around to help someone else with what we have learned and such is the nature of this place!
So now you might ideally do what you can to remove the WD-40 as HPM suggests, give it some IPA and that will remove much of it, and replace it with one of the good choices mentioned.
I just love happy endings!!!
So now you might ideally do what you can to remove the WD-40 as HPM suggests, give it some IPA and that will remove much of it, and replace it with one of the good choices mentioned.
I just love happy endings!!!
lJelal
Member
I have been happily enjoying the great sound from my PX-2 and the MC-705 cart since getting it running.
I have a request for help from you turntable experts.
I noticed there is some rise and fall in the platter as it rotates.
I don't know if that is a problem per see but the following seems to exacerbate this... I have a record that is fairly warped and wavy. The undulation is so bad that it is occasionally hitting something causing massive crunchy distortion. I tried setting the VTA as high as it would go but that didn't help. I think it might have damaged my stylus because now my channel balance is off. My right channel is louder that the left now. It was great before.
How can I do I go about troubleshooting what is causing the channel imbalance? How do I determine if I need a new stylus? Please advise.
I have a request for help from you turntable experts.
I noticed there is some rise and fall in the platter as it rotates.
I don't know if that is a problem per see but the following seems to exacerbate this... I have a record that is fairly warped and wavy. The undulation is so bad that it is occasionally hitting something causing massive crunchy distortion. I tried setting the VTA as high as it would go but that didn't help. I think it might have damaged my stylus because now my channel balance is off. My right channel is louder that the left now. It was great before.
How can I do I go about troubleshooting what is causing the channel imbalance? How do I determine if I need a new stylus? Please advise.
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lJelal
Member
Thanks, any idea if might be a lubrication related issue or some part wear issue or if there is some adjustment point for this?
TForan
Active Member
No idea ,to be honest. I'm in the process of sending my tonearm off to Professor Bizzt. I'm sure he could help you.
If there's no dirt or knackering of the tapered motor shaft or it's interface in the platter, then something got bent! If you run the motor without the platter, can you see the shaft wandering as it turns?
And, I'm assuming there's no play? (if you try to rock the platter vertically, there should be no play)
And, I'm assuming there's no play? (if you try to rock the platter vertically, there should be no play)
Coshac333
Active Member
slight deformation of the platter in height, this is found on many turntables. I have seen this more than once.
Perhaps the platter itself is flat. Sometimes you can eliminate the problem by removing the platter, disassembling the motor, rinse well from the old oil and lubricate it again.
Perhaps the platter itself is flat. Sometimes you can eliminate the problem by removing the platter, disassembling the motor, rinse well from the old oil and lubricate it again.