Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

[Zilch]

Nothing ever glued to the front edge. Do I now have a functional equivalent of LE14H-something, or do I still have LE14A's?

For some period, about that time, when the hardening Lansaloy problem emerged, JBL offered a free factory recone to foam-surround, rear-mounted, perhaps, per current cone kits. If your LE14As have alnico magnets, that's what they are, very likely, factory foam recones.... :thmbsp:

 

[BmWr75]

Has anyone econowaved a pair of KLH-6s? I got an extra pair sitting around wondering what to do with themselves.

 

[packrat]

Ok, as promised here`s some pics of my newly aquired L55s. I love the way these sound already , can`t wait to convert to ewave. I`ve upgraded the binding posts and will put them on some kind of stand or legs. The cabinets are a little rough so eventually i`ll reveneer.
How hard is refoaming? I`m pretty handy but i`ve never done this before.
Cheers, Steve.

Looking good! Did you get grills too? L65 grills apparently fit, but frankly an MDF board with the middle cut out to clear the speakers and then covered in cloth would work fine. Try not to damage the LE20s - collectors really want to buy them if they are not dented in!

LE14s are a little more difficult to refoam compared to, say, an Advent woofer because the magnet gap to coil spacing is tighter than most. But, if you're careful and follow instructions (and search for all the threads here and the Lansing Heritage forums on refoaming...) you'll do fine. Might be worth trying to refoam a junker 8 or 10 inch woofer just for practice. Anything with rotten surrounds found at the thrift stores is fair game.

 

[Zilch]

Has anyone econowaved a pair of KLH-6s? I got an extra pair sitting around wondering what to do with themselves.

These got JBL 127H woofers, shown; I never had the stock KLH-6 ones, just the free cabs. Worth a try, tho.... :thmbsp:

 

[MarkNJ]

Ok, so this may be a completely stupid question... but bear with me.

I have a pair of Infinity RS-4000 three ways that have at least one frozen woofer. I'll need to dump probably $50 just to fix that, nevermind the crossover work that they need.

Would it be possible to use this cabinet for some e-waves? The maximum the opening would need to be for the waveguide based upon the existing openings is eight inches, vertically. Is this a dumb idea? Can I have an opening in the box that big? And would a waveguide that large pair up well enough with an eight inch driver (the woofer opening that's there)?

 

[castlesteve]

Looking good! Did you get grills too? L65 grills apparently fit, but frankly an MDF board with the middle cut out to clear the speakers and then covered in cloth would work fine. Try not to damage the LE20s - collectors really want to buy them if they are not dented in!

LE14s are a little more difficult to refoam compared to, say, an Advent woofer because the magnet gap to coil spacing is tighter than most. But, if you're careful and follow instructions (and search for all the threads here and the Lansing Heritage forums on refoaming...) you'll do fine. Might be worth trying to refoam a junker 8 or 10 inch woofer just for practice. Anything with rotten surrounds found at the thrift stores is fair game.

Yes i got the grills, however i`m thinking of building a new front baffle using 1/2" material laid over the existing baffle and extending it upwards to accomodate the waveguide in an open baffle style. I`ll try to pull out the Le20s as they appear to be a press fit. I have a pair of 4" precision ports to use in the new baffles. I think this would give the speaker a good looking baffle. I`ll have a go at the refoaming and just be very careful.

 

[Zilch]

Would it be possible to use this cabinet for some e-waves?

The critical dimension for the "standard" E'Wave is 12" baffle width x 6.5" high; the cutout is smaller. If you don't have that, there are options, PT waveguides 8" and 6" square, presently under evaluation by several members, and others outside the "official" scope of EconoWave.

Building with existing cabs is easiest when the requisite waveguide cutout corresponds with the stock openings, in which case, it's just a matter of cutting larger ones about the same location(s), but Jack has taught us that virtually any cabiniet may be made to work by plugging existing openings, as required, or replacing the baffles entirely, illusting both approaches in earlier posts here.

Several of us have built with 8" woofers and the standard E'Waveguide, though 10" woofers are more common, here using new baffles for the desired layout:

The best way for us to evaluate the potential of your cabinets is for you to post a pic of the front here. :yes:

I`ll have a go at the refoaming and just be very careful.

If you encounter any difficulty, there are many experienced AK woofer refomers who'll be more than willing to provide whatever assistance may be necessary for doing this successfully.... :thmbsp:

 

[MarkNJ]

Woofer opening is ~7.25"
Cab depth is ~7.75"
Top of tweeter to bottom of mid is ~8"

 

[packrat]

I`ll try to pull out the Le20s as they appear to be a press fit. .....

Not press fit - they're screwed in! The mounting screws are hidden behind the metal trim ring. Don't try to pull the trim piece off as it'll just bend - I've read that a heat gun or hair dryer will soften the glue then you get a flat blade underneath to lift it off.

 

[Zilch]

Cab depth is ~7.75"

What's the depth from front of baffle to inside of the rear wall?

 

[lico]

Has anyone here ever attempted an Econowave using Bozak 302a cabinets? I have the itch to start a project, the Econozaks. The cabinets are 24x20x28, the woofer cutout is 15 inch (the original 12 inch drivers were mounted in a 15 inch basket). No, I did not part these out. I picked them up cheap after somebody else already had gutted them, what a shame. I'm thinking maybe a new baffle with new 12 inch woofers. Any suggestions on how to proceed appreciated....

 

[Ice_Cubit]

...

 

[Zilch]

I have the itch to start a project, the Econozaks. The cabinets are 24x20x28, the woofer cutout is 15 inch (the original 12 inch drivers were mounted in a 15 inch basket). Any suggestions on how to proceed appreciated....

Same deal; we need pics. :yes:

I assume that's 24"W x 28"H x 20"D?

 

[ROSSO]

These got JBL 127H woofers, shown; I never had the stock KLH-6 ones, just the free cabs. Worth a try, tho.... :thmbsp:

So if you had your choice of 127H-1, LE14A or 123A/2213 woofers, which would be your choice to econowavize?? I was saving the LE14's for my 811B project.

 

[Russellc]

So if you had your choice of 127H-1, LE14A or 123A/2213 woofers, which would be your choice to econowavize?? I was saving the LE14's for my 811B project.

While they are all good candidates, I'd use the LE14A drivers if I had the choice. Altec 811B ( or 511B for that matter ) does not perform as well as Econowave. Been there done that, but I still have them!

Russellc

 

[Mmike]

The critical dimension for the "standard" E'Wave is 12" baffle width x 6.5" high; the cutout is smaller. If you don't have that, there are options, PT waveguides 8" and 6" square, presently under evaluation by several members, and others outside the "official" scope of EconoWave.

I'll be getting ready in a few months to E'wave my L-56's and with that in mind is it Ok to get the 12" from PE for my 220's or do I need to go to JBL for the guides?


-Mike

 

[Andyman]

While they are all good candidates, I'd use the LE14A drivers if I had the choice. Altec 811B ( or 511B for that matter ) does not perform as well as Econowave. Been there done that, but I still have them!

Russellc

Yep, I'm w/ Russell :yes:

Kegger and I swapped about the 811Bs, EWaves, 806As and Selenium DT210s, on at least 3 corossover variants during my Valencia experiment and the EWave won out.

About all the 811B had the edge on is that well documented gonadotrophic effect

 

[ROSSO]

...About all the 811B had the edge on is that well documented gonadotrophic effect

811B falls into the same category as the Ducati! I see this as two projects, Econowave-Yamaha and a less defined 811B buildup. Junkyard 77 cent/pair Yamaha's are 40"x15"x14" deep.

View attachment 131064

 

[MarkNJ]

What's the depth from front of baffle to inside of the rear wall?

8 1/2"

The previous measurement for depth was inside to inside.

 

[lico]

Same deal; we need pics. :yes:

I assume that's 24"W x 28"H x 20"D?

I could not have been more wrong on the measurements I supplied, was using information I read on the Internet for these. I opened them up today, pics attached. Inside dimensions are roughly 22.5 W x 22.5 H x 17 D. They have a 12 inch diameter woofer cutout, 5.5 inch tweeter cutout, and the distance between is 2 inches. Thanks!