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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

Zilch said:
I believe I nailed the S99 aesthetic well:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1874890&#post1874890

It does not need to be so tall nor such large volume as you propose; 3.5 cuft is Citation subwoofer territory.

Hole in bottom matches that shown in base.

Tune to 30 Hz.

Again, if I was smart, I'd figure out how to make a slot port at the junction.... :yes::
Click to expand...

Are you suggesting it would be a detriment to be that tall and or large?
I'm asking because I have the cabs and it would be easier for this then
build something else and use it instead.

------

Dennis yes those passives are for the LE10's, and yep as I stated above
the 2 cabs would be bolted and glued together. :)
 
Kegger said:
Here is the layout I'm considering. (It looks taller then it is)

Also am wanting the aesthetics to look as best as I can as well so I'm open to any thoughts/suggestions on that here to. :D
Click to expand...

Kegger,

As I recall, those cabinets were fairly decent on sides and top. Now mind you it was a 5 degrees and blowing wind when I picked them up and I didn't spend much time looking them over... Maybe I am wrong and they are worse than I recall..

I'd sure hate to see you chop them up. Further, I really like Zilch's approach that makes the base look like a separate pedestal or stand. However, I'd probably go with a black base.

Think it over.. Maybe I just like walnut cabs with classy grills...but, I like what I like and I like those cabinets.
 
I hear yu Dan I'm thinking about it, but part of what you said I don't follow,
even if just put some kinda base underneath them I'm going to have cut out
the bottom, no matter what I do the same alteration would happen to the cab.
 
Kegger said:
as I stated above the 2 cabs would be bolted and glued together. :)
Click to expand...
Mine are to be bolted. I've got foam gasket tape in there making the seal.

There's presently a 1/2" recessed spacer between the sections. I'll never match the finish top and bottom, so that's why I further define the "pedestal" as a separate and distinct design element with that reveal. It's also where I get the idea for a slotted port there.... :yes:
 
Zilch said:
Mine are to be bolted. I've got foam gasket tape in there making the seal.

There's presently a 1/2" recessed spacer between the sections. I'll never match the finish top and bottom, so that's why I further define the "pedestal" as a separate and distinct design element with that reveal. It's also where I get the idea for a slotted port there.... :yes:
Click to expand...

The slotted "port" would be very snazzy I'd have to admit.:thmbsp:
 
Kegger said:
I hear yu Dan I'm thinking about it, but part of what you said I don't follow,
even if just put some kinda base underneath them I'm going to have cut out
the bottom, no matter what I do the same alteration would happen to the cab.
Click to expand...

It's not the whole in the bottom that really concerns me.. it's the look of it sitting there.. I think the black base makes it look like a base and not a cobbled up cabinet...
 
Kegger said:
The slotted "port" would be very snazzy I'd have to admit.:thmbsp:
Click to expand...
Here's my spacer presently:

attachment.php

S'pose the center of each side were cut out, or three of them, at some width, or the four corners. How does that calc against what is required? :dunno:
 

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Cosmos said:
It's not the whole in the bottom that really concerns me.. it's the look of it sitting there.. I think the black base makes it look like a base and not a cobbled up cabinet...
Click to expand...

Got yu, but at first I thought you meant you were adverse to the whole idea of
cutting out that bottom and attaching something to it, but anyway no biggie. :D

Here is something I thought might make the cabs "seem" more like they are one.
I figure I can get the woods to look very simular with sanding then a light stain.
Then put a black piece along the bottom of the top piece then an accent kinda
deal up the side of both.

The pic certainly won't do it justice but should get the point across I think though.

Not saying just like this but would something in this area be more pleasing maybe? :scratch2:
 

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8" On-baffle High-Sensitivity

I'm assuming these 8" waveguides will be mounted on baffles such as in this Advent, which has a baffle width of 12".

Orange is the standard high-sensitivity highpass. As I suggested earlier, 1.5 uF starts the comp too low to flatten the peak at 13.35 kHz effectively. 1.0 uF works, and the total comp is ~10 dB.

Legend is R2/R1/C3:

attachment.php

I'll confirm using three drivers and provide Behringer RTA measurements for comparison.... :thmbsp:
 

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Kegger said:
Got yu, but at first I thought you meant you were adverse to the whole idea of
cutting out that bottom and attaching something to it, but anyway no biggie. :D
........
Click to expand...

Kegger,

How big are the lower pair of speakers? They might be large enough to use as-is, just transplanting the LE14a and WG into it - preserving the S99s for a more suitable 10" or 12" woofer rebuild? If the volume needs expanding a short base could be added to it, opened into the bottom of the cabinet - a 6 inch base slightly smaller than the width and depth might add a third of cubic foot, and raise the speaker a bit. It could then be made of MDF painted black, and look like it was 'stock'.

Or, is there any chance of getting a 3rd S99 cabinet? You could then do what Zilch did in his S99 'tall-boy' rebuild, but using a single S99 cut in half to extend the cabinet height. You'd go from about 1.6 to 2.2 cubic feet, and get the ports on the bottom and preserve the walnut look. Or using 2 extra S99s they could be cut at about 3/4 height and maybe get you to 2.5 cubic feet when spliced together. just ideas you probably thought about already...
 
Kegger said:
Would the online Calculators for doing square and or slot ports help?
Click to expand...
That's not getting me workable port lengths.

It's clear a slot port requires less length, due to friction losses at the walls, seems like.... :dunno:
 
Zilch, slot ports can be folded...at least to some extent until they start acting like a transmission line instead of a port. If you are modeling the slot port as one that is sharing a wall with the cabinets outer wall, then the shorter port length is due to the end correction factor. Basically, the length of the port is effectively made longer because of the walls is longer than the other three. It would be similar to using a round port cut off on an angle. The tuning freq would be somewhere around the midpoint between the shortest and longest lengths of the port.
 
Thanks for the ideas, (the additional cab is 2.2 ft3 with no bracing, 26" tall)

What I'm trying to understand here is, do some have issues with this height
just because it's BIG? Thinking it's bigger then something they want to move
or just have in there space?

Because I don't find it objectionally large nor really that big, I stand next to
it and I'm darn near 2 feet taller, it's fairly skinny and only 3.5 ft3, if I brace
it well could end up with less then 3.5 ft3 actually.

Yah it would suck to stow them away, but I plan on using them and have a
place they would fit no problem. ;)

And I am not really sure that with a tweet mounted in the cab I would want
it any lower then it would be, it is right at ear height. If the tweet cab were
seperate and on top then I wouldn't want it that high but with it in there?

No I wish I did have another or 2 S99 cabs, these the only ones I have, went
through bunch of cabs yesterday an actually tossed couple bad apples finally.:thmbsp:
(Andy would be proud)

I really don't have a problem with the cab this size, is there any technical issues?

--------

Also in winter I don't really have access to a place I can build boxes from scratch,
but I can take some prebuilt ones an modify them without to much problem though. :thmbsp:


packrat said:
Kegger,

How big are the lower pair of speakers? They might be large enough to use as-is, just transplanting the LE14a and WG into it - preserving the S99s for a more suitable 10" or 12" woofer rebuild? If the volume needs expanding a short base could be added to it, opened into the bottom of the cabinet - a 6 inch base slightly smaller than the width and depth might add a third of cubic foot, and raise the speaker a bit. It could then be made of MDF painted black, and look like it was 'stock'.

Or, is there any chance of getting a 3rd S99 cabinet? You could then do what Zilch did in his S99 'tall-boy' rebuild, but using a single S99 cut in half to extend the cabinet height. You'd go from about 1.6 to 2.2 cubic feet, and get the ports on the bottom and preserve the walnut look. Or using 2 extra S99s they could be cut at about 3/4 height and maybe get you to 2.5 cubic feet when spliced together. just ideas you probably thought about already...
Click to expand...
 
Kegger said:
Got yu, but at first I thought you meant you were adverse to the whole idea of
cutting out that bottom and attaching something to it, but anyway no biggie. :D

Here is something I thought might make the cabs "seem" more like they are one.
I figure I can get the woods to look very simular with sanding then a light stain.
Then put a black piece along the bottom of the top piece then an accent kinda
deal up the side of both.

The pic certainly won't do it justice but should get the point across I think though.

Not saying just like this but would something in this area be more pleasing maybe? :scratch2:
Click to expand...

You sir, are a box saver/reuser deluxe extraordinaire! :D Wow I hope I can find a 5th of the boxes you come up with! Good show, and cant wait to see the results.:yes:

russellc
 
Yes Russell I keep everything, rarely does anything get tossed around here, and for
some stupid reason I like to collect speakers, so when someone wants something to
go away they call Keg, He'll take it..:confused:
 
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