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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

OOOOHH,

"Constant Reflectivity", man now that would be an experience, sounds like 1 giant echo. :thmbsp:
(or, the sound of 2 speakers clapping) :)
 
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You guys a gettin' good at this stuff:

D220Ti nominal sensitivity = 109 dB, less 20 dB = 89 dB. The Advent and DC250-8 woofers are ~4 dB less than that due to my dorking with the lowpass to bring up the bass response, Baffle Step Compensation, some would call that; they balance with the additional L-pad set at midpoint, i.e., -4 dB, for a system net 85 dB sensitivity.

That's my guess, and I'm sticking to it. ;)

The baffle step slope begins at ~7.1 kHz, the wavelength of which is ~1.75". Doesn't make sense to me, either, but that's what I believe it shows.... :dunno:

2 cuft is too small. I like it just fine. :thmbsp:

Gordon says try the 12" Dayton Classic.... :yes:

Its Econo all right, < than 30 bucks!

Russellc
 
Yeah, me too, and I also have experience with quite a few different type of horns as well. This inexpensive wg blew me away. While I am not going away from the old horn stuff just yet, I know I'll be listening to the EWG for a while.

Its a real eye opener hearing these for the first time, hard to quit listening to them. A lot of "favorites" have been completely creamed by this little waveguide, thats for sure.

Russellc
 
Congratulations, they are beautiful!
With great E"Wave imaging, and proper toe in, no center ch. will be needed.
:)

This is very true. I notice when I am sitting on a couch at the far end of the living room, against a side wall, I can hardly see the left speaker, yet the center image holds up strong. As you center yourself between the speakers and get REAL close, the sweet spot contracts, but no one would listen that close anyway. Really amazing imaging with this constant directivity, lots of fun.

Russellc
 
Wow those look great and you work fast! What cabinets are they? You should have mentioned you were looking for Ikea legs, I have a set of those as well. I also like your SX-1250.

Can you define "sound good". Zilch usually expects a bit more of a description than that. :D

At least he supplied the requisite beautiful pics! Good show!:thmbsp:

Russellc
 
Internal volume ~4.7 cubic ft. Ducts are 2 inch diameter by 2.5 inch length. I have a brace across the back panel to stiffen it up, and considered adding a front to back brace. I chose not to for now, the cabs seem pretty solid as is.

As for polarity, all seems OK. Positive +1.5 volts at input terminals moves both woofers forward. I tried to make sure the polarity was good when I put these together because of the LE14 +/- mislabeling.

Don't get me wrong... these guys have bass, but I think need could use a couple dB extra added at the low end to match some of my other speaks. I don't have a way to measure thse directly, but I do have some Wharfedales spec'ed -6db @28 Hz that seem to push the low end better.

Hmmmmmm how wide are those Wharfedales baffle? (Grabbing at a sawsall):D

russellc
 
Just got a line on some 501's would they make a good candidate, do the woofers crossover high enough?

Is that a two way speaker? If so, would likely work out. If not, either measure how high it plays nice, or try it with the basic crossover. I am assuming the woofer is nominally 8 ohms. Otherwise crossover adjustments are in order.

russellc
 
OOOOHH, "Constant Reflectivity", man now that would be an experience, sounds like 1 giant echo. :thmbsp:
(or, the sound of 2 speakers clapping) :)

:lmao: Almost fell out of my chair laughing! Constant Reflectivity! I love it.
Kegger, I think you should copyright that one, quick, before Bose finds out about it. :thmbsp:
Hmmmm, or JBL, come to think of it.
 
L56 Update

Quick update:
After a bit of pedestrian comparison, it seems that the L56 woofers are performing roughly as well as my KLH 23s in the LF. So I forged ahead with the demolition.:D

Sorry, no pics yet, but I think I did rather well. Especially since I was dumbing it out until 3am this morning... :boring:

For those who may be considering ewaving the L56, there are two fitment issues with the L56 cabinet:
1) The port is in the way, such that half of the former port hole is exposed from the ~10"x5" cutout rectangle. I'm still thinking of ways to "fill" it, though I already hot glued a small piece of 1/4" oak plank to the inside of the cabinet to cover that side.
2) The waveguide is *just* wide enough to impede on the original grill frame sides, so the top grill pegs will not go in to their holes. My first idea for this is to somehow make the top grill pegs longer, rather than carving out the frame.

I'll try to get pics tonight.

I will be receiving some ADS woofers soon (from L730), and will give one a shot in one of the L56 cabinets to compare. According to Kegger's measurements, should I try to bump up the impedance from 4-6 Ohm to 6-8? Would a 45 Ohm resister in parallel (as Kegger used for two woofers) with the positive woofer lead work in this case? Would going without added resistance be "wrong?"

Thanks, Ewave gurus!:thmbsp:
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[presumed woofer impedance curve]
 
I will be receiving some ADS woofers soon (from L730), and will give one a shot in one of the L56 cabinets to compare. According to Kegger's measurements, should I try to bump up the impedance from 4-6 Ohm to 6-8? Would a 45 Ohm resister in parallel (as Kegger used for two woofers) with the positive woofer lead work in this case? Would going without added resistance be "wrong?"

Thanks, Ewave gurus!:thmbsp:

Von, Go back an study the post I made on the ADS woofer deal with the paralell resistor.

The resistor was in Paralell not Series, you'll see the impedance went DOWN, it was added
on that ONE setup because I posted showing 2 woofers in series on that pic showing that
the "bump" at low fequency was basically doubled but the paralell resistor helped flatten it.

What I was doing was showing that if someone had 4 woofers they "could" run in series to
get the impedance up, but then flatten it with a paralell resistor to build a pair of speakers.

If using just 1 woofer you'd want to leave it alone, maybe use a coil that has at least .5ohm
resistance in it so you stay above 4, make sure your solid state amp is 4ohm stable, and if it's
a tube amp your using then use the 4ohm taps.
 
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right... still a little foggy. Heh, I knew that. I actually set aside the coils from the original L56 network to use for that little extra resistance if it would be recommended. Thanks for the brain jog, Kegger. :D

And thanks, Z. I saw that -- just wondered about what ill effects the mismatch would incur, theoretically.
 
And thanks, Z. I saw that -- just wondered about what ill effects the mismatch would incur, theoretically.
Solid state's not going to care.

Tubes I'd be biamping anyway, probably, otherwise, measure the impedance and figure something out if there's an issue.... :yes:
 
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