Try different higher cap values once you get there, maybe.... :yes:OK then, I'm going cheap an' durty with 'em, then -- same crossover.
Try different higher cap values once you get there, maybe.... :yes:OK then, I'm going cheap an' durty with 'em, then -- same crossover.
BB6P says you're tuned to ~27 Hz, which I have found to be too low. Shorten your ducts to 1.145" for 32 Hz, 1.631" for 30 Hz.
In all of the 2" cases, however, your vent velocities are quite high at volume, and they'll "chuff." As Duff suggests, move up to 3" diameter, 4.361" for 32 Hz, or 5.453" for 30 Hz, it says, which drop the vent velocities to less than half those with 2" ducts.
We tuned Duff's system using actual completed box tuning measurements at ZilchLab, and from these numbers, it seems we got it right. I've provided instructions for doing that in another thread here:
http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=144047
Consider side-to-side and top-to-bottom bracing. I'll put together a little demo here using Simpson Strong-Tie framing anchors. :yes:
Edit: Another option: add two more 2" ducts; all of them 4.219" long for 32 Hz (Black,) 5.19" for 30 Hz (Red). That'll give you some tuning options using ZilchPlugz™. If you tune to 32 Hz and plug one port, it drops to ~28 Hz, so you can compare the performance of both tunings.... :thmbsp:
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We like working with boxes having removable front baffles like Duff's Barzilays and JBL C36, for example. Whether made of plywood, particle board, or MDF, the relatively large side, rear, top and bottom panels are flexible and resonant. We can add stiffening battens to them, and reinforce the corners, but the best approach to making them rigid is cross-bracing.More about these "Simpson Strong-Tie Framing anchors" as bracing please!
Stuff happens when others hear E'Waves, don't it?My friends have heard my E-waves and now demand a pair for themselves...
Several have been used successfully so far, Goldwood, Dayton, Eminence, others. Go to post #1 for the link to Member Projects; there's usually a bit of discussion regarding each one. You can get there easily by clicking "First" at the top or bottom of this (or any other) thread page. :thmbsp:I know this has been covered before but I can't seem to find any info. Is there a current production, reasonably priced (<$100) woofer that would work well in the E-wave?
That sounds like dc270's project with Eminence, I believe it was. :yes:These will be a combination of pa speaker for playing out and a speaker to use in the house when at home.

Stuff happens when others hear E'Waves, don't it?
Several have been used successfully so far, Goldwood, Dayton, Eminence, others. Go to post #1 for the link to Member Projects; there's usually a bit of discussion regarding each one. You can get there easily by clicking "First" at the top or bottom of this (or any other) thread page. :thmbsp:
That sounds like dc270's project with Eminence, I believe it was. :yes:
Footnote: I'm looking forward to the day when a group gets together to build a bunch, one with a wood shop to build boxes, one with finishing skills, another with a wholesale account at PE for component purchasing, another who can load and solder crossover boards in their sleep, and finally, a get together (with pics for AK, of course,) where a dozen or so E'Waves get assembled all at once....![]()
Don't forget "all with no spouses to get in the way"
We like working with boxes having removable front baffles like Duff's Barzilays and JBL C36, for example. Whether made of plywood, particle board, or MDF, the relatively large side, rear, top and bottom panels are flexible and resonant. We can add stiffening battens to them, and reinforce the corners, but the best approach to making them rigid is cross-bracing.
We can't do that by fixedly installing braces as by glueing them in, for example; they must themselves be removable so as to allow the front baffles to be removed through the rear, and changed out at will. We can't just drill holes through the cabinet walls to accomplish this, but there are alternative solutions here:
http://www.strongtie.com/
Particularly:
http://www.strongtie.com/products/categories/angles-clips.html
Yer gonna hafta wait 'til I get a 2x4, a scrap of plywood, and some T-nuts together here....Any pics with these things in action?
Yer gonna hafta wait 'til I get a 2x4, a scrap of plywood, and some T-nuts together here....![]()
This is DIY.Here's the damage.
I noticed way too late that the woofer is not centered in the cabinet!?!
Oh well. The waveguide is. :stupid:
This is DIY.
It's well if not perfectly centered.
[+/-....]

That was with the Pyle edition of the waveguide, which has a metal insert in the throat, whereas, the JBL one is just plastic.What's the consensus on tight/too tight with the waveguide? Some tension, a lot of tension, 8.65 lb.ft. [+/-] 0.77? I recall some mentioning of not altering the screen shape with tension....
GMTA, obviously.... :yes:I just go for snug.
About centering..... that's what grilles are for.
:thmbsp: