Bauhausler
Rational Subjectivist
New OLA Ewave conversion concept
All;
I'm working on ideas for a fancy conversion of the Original Large Advent speaker to Ewave. I've already done a pair of Utilities but I wanted to do something fancier.
I decided that if I built a new baffle I could:
* back mount the woofer, overlapping it with the WG and reducing center to center distance
* reduce the center to center distance between the drivers to less than 8", 3.5" closer than if the original woofer hole and tweeter hole were used.
* hide the woofer frame
* veneer the front baffle in walnut to match the cabinets
* make the front somewhat stiffer
* move the woofer's center back about 5/8" closer to the VC of the compression driver, improving phase behavior
In the pic below, imagine that the WG is front mounted on a 1/2" thick baffle and the woofer is rear mounted behind the baffle in those approximate positions.
If the edge of the woofer cutout is appropriately radiused, the hole for the cone and part of the surround can be 7" - 8" instead of having the whole 12" woofer frame and Masonite showing.
This is a little unconventional but with careful measuring it will work. The baffle will have to be removable to allow access to the woofer and crossover since you'll no longer be able to remove the woofer through the front and access through the woofer hole. I considered a permanently fixed baffle with the woofer removable through the WG hole, but this would be difficult with the heavy damping fill in the cabinet. A removable baffle will work fine if screwed down firmly.
To get the WG to sit flat between the rims of the cabinet I had to sand away about 1/2 of the edge - about 1/32" on each side. It's *slightly* too wide as is.
All;
I'm working on ideas for a fancy conversion of the Original Large Advent speaker to Ewave. I've already done a pair of Utilities but I wanted to do something fancier.
I decided that if I built a new baffle I could:
* back mount the woofer, overlapping it with the WG and reducing center to center distance
* reduce the center to center distance between the drivers to less than 8", 3.5" closer than if the original woofer hole and tweeter hole were used.
* hide the woofer frame
* veneer the front baffle in walnut to match the cabinets
* make the front somewhat stiffer
* move the woofer's center back about 5/8" closer to the VC of the compression driver, improving phase behavior
In the pic below, imagine that the WG is front mounted on a 1/2" thick baffle and the woofer is rear mounted behind the baffle in those approximate positions.
If the edge of the woofer cutout is appropriately radiused, the hole for the cone and part of the surround can be 7" - 8" instead of having the whole 12" woofer frame and Masonite showing.
This is a little unconventional but with careful measuring it will work. The baffle will have to be removable to allow access to the woofer and crossover since you'll no longer be able to remove the woofer through the front and access through the woofer hole. I considered a permanently fixed baffle with the woofer removable through the WG hole, but this would be difficult with the heavy damping fill in the cabinet. A removable baffle will work fine if screwed down firmly.
To get the WG to sit flat between the rims of the cabinet I had to sand away about 1/2 of the edge - about 1/32" on each side. It's *slightly* too wide as is.
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