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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

Jackgiff, as you have posted before, I got the comp filter attenuations, however can you tell me the attenuation for -9db and -13 db , R1 R2 and cap uF values. Just need to balance my econo wave precisely without using any L Pad.
 
That is beautiful veneer. It should really pop when finished.

They sure will. Hit them with some BLO to pop the grain and then your finish of choice; Deft in my case. A couple of coats of gloss brushed on and sanded to build depth, and then a final coat of satin to cut the glare.

I used that on mine and they look really, really nice.
 
They sure will. Hit them with some BLO to pop the grain and then your finish of choice; Deft in my case. A couple of coats of gloss brushed on and sanded to build depth, and then a final coat of satin to cut the glare.

I used that on mine and they look really, really nice.

What is BLO?
I'm going to edge the new baffles in 3/4" solid brass angle to finish the edge. This is $5/ft, but it's only money.
 
What is BLO?
I'm going to edge the new baffles in 3/4" solid brass angle to finish the edge. This is $5/ft, but it's only money.

BLO = Boiled Linseed Oil. Good stuff. natural, and it smells good. Personally, I don't usually like to put a hard coat (varnish, urethane, etc) over it. I reapply it every couple of years. We have a whole house full of cherry Stickley furniture and I use it on it too.
 
Yep, that's it.
I think I used a version of the Maloof finish (1/3 BLO, 1/3 mineral spirits, 1/3 varnish) or maybe just thinned it a bit with spirits so it would penetrate quickly and dry faster.
 
BLO = Boiled Linseed Oil. Good stuff. natural, and it smells good. Personally, I don't usually like to put a hard coat (varnish, urethane, etc) over it. I reapply it every couple of years. We have a whole house full of cherry Stickley furniture and I use it on it too.

Oh, right. I have a can of Cherokee brand that must be over 50 years old.
Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, then once a year for life. The old school way. Smells like art class, too.
 
BLO = Boiled Linseed Oil. Good stuff. natural, and it smells good. Personally, I don't usually like to put a hard coat (varnish, urethane, etc) over it. I reapply it every couple of years. We have a whole house full of cherry Stickley furniture and I use it on it too.

I personally avoid using Linseed Oil (I don't know why they continue to call it boiled), because it is an immense fire hazard. Rags soaked in it can spontaneously combust. Which is not worth the risk. Plus it has poor durability.

Tung or Danish will work fine, having the same properties without the risk.

Just my opinion.
 
E-wave underway! The beginnings of a pair anyway.

ejfud loaned me a pair of the JBL waveguides and Selenium DT210Ti's that he picked up but were sitting unused. I have had the EV TA806A's (EVM12L) for some time now. They were purchased for use in a future straight horn bass project but I thought they might prove interesting for this.

The x-overs were constructed with parts on hand but hopefully be converted to the high efficiency woofer crossover after I pick up some more goodies.

The EVM12L won't do very LF in these cabs but the idea was to dial them in for use with a subwoofer. Preliminary results are pretty good so far.

http://archives.telex.com/archives/EV/Builders Plans/TL806 Builders Plans.pdf


Here is the evolution so far. Remember, the x-over at this point is not e-wave "approved", but designed to get her up and running.

RC
 

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I personally avoid using Linseed Oil (I don't know why they continue to call it boiled), because it is an immense fire hazard. Rags soaked in it can spontaneously combust. Which is not worth the risk. Plus it has poor durability.

Tung or Danish will work fine, having the same properties without the risk.

Just my opinion.

I am impressed Max. It is early and you can construct an intelligent sentence. It has taken my 15 minutes to write this one.:D
 
E-wave underway! The beginnings of a pair anyway.

ejfud loaned me a pair of the JBL waveguides and Selenium DT210Ti's that he picked up but were sitting unused. I have had the EV TA806A's (EVM12L) for some time now. They were purchased for use in a future straight horn bass project but I thought they might prove interesting for this.

The x-overs were constructed with parts on hand but hopefully be converted to the high efficiency woofer crossover after I pick up some more goodies.

The EVM12L won't do very LF in these cabs but the idea was to dial them in for use with a subwoofer. Preliminary results are pretty good so far.

http://archives.telex.com/archives/EV/Builders Plans/TL806 Builders Plans.pdf


Here is the evolution so far. Remember, the x-over at this point is not e-wave "approved", but designed to get her up and running.

RC

Those should sound great Dou. Is there room between the top of the woof and the top of the cab to fit the 6x6 or 8x8 waveguide. I nice sub should fill the bottom in nice. Get those all fancied up then you can send Nate your Dixies.
 
Those should sound great Dou. Is there room between the top of the woof and the top of the cab to fit the 6x6 or 8x8 waveguide. I nice sub should fill the bottom in nice. Get those all fancied up then you can send Nate your Dixies.


I plan on making a baffle to mount the waveguide in that will run the length of the TA806A's and locate the horn a little higher but centered where its at.

I don't think these are going to take the place of anything but a fun project none the less. Nate can get his own dang Dixielanders :D

RC
 
I am impressed Max. It is early and you can construct an intelligent sentence. It has taken my 15 minutes to write this one.:D

Well, in all honesty, I had been composing that paragraph since I left your house last night. :D

PS: Your set-up has to be one of the best sounding systems I have ever heard. Simply awesome.
 
Econowaving a Wharfedale W60???

These Wharfedales are the likely candidate for this project. However, I've discovered when the waveguide is installed where the tweeter used to be, there is no longer room for the bass reflex vent tube. The tube is 2" inner diameter and 8.75" long. Don't think there is room down next to the woofer to install a 2" diameter vent tube. However, two black plastic tubes that are 1.5" ID will work in the corners above below the crossbar and above the woofers.

Question - can a vent tube be resized to a smaller diameter and longer length (use 90 degree elbow probably) to get the same cabinet tuning result? Maybe two smaller diameter tubes?

The white paint is being stripped now from one of the speakers to see what the wood like like beneath it. Pictures available in this link.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=201831
 
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I personally avoid using Linseed Oil (I don't know why they continue to call it boiled), because it is an immense fire hazard. Rags soaked in it can spontaneously combust. Which is not worth the risk. Plus it has poor durability.

Tung or Danish will work fine, having the same properties without the risk.

Just my opinion.
Quite true about the rags. I usually launder them right away, so not a problem for me.

Risk? That's a relative term. I'm an engineer in a chemical plant. We have millions of pounds of stuff just aching to spontaneously combust, but treated with respect, we all get along just fine.

I think in theory you can buy the thinner non-boiled variety, though I've never seen it in a consumer package.

I'm a big fan of the "hand rubbed oil and waxed" finishes, so the fact they are not permanent is a positive thing for me. I certainly understand the desire for more permanant finishes though, and they are certainly good for business, as we make the monomers used to make polyurethanes.

Regards to all.
 
Well, in all honesty, I had been composing that paragraph since I left your house last night. :D

PS: Your set-up has to be one of the best sounding systems I have ever heard. Simply awesome.

Thanks Max. I still marvle at in myself. I am really foggy this morning but am staining the Edgarhorns non the less.
 
Quite true about the rags. I usually launder them right away, so not a problem for me.

I just toss them in a pickle jar and screw on the cap tight, then use them at a later time to as kindling in the fire pit. They do burn well. :yes:
 
Here is the evolution so far. Remember, the x-over at this point is not e-wave "approved", but designed to get her up and running.
HEY, RC!

Let us know when you get the real deal crossovers running, and we can make you "Official." The engineered HF compensation is essential to them doing the E'Wave thang.

Question - can a vent tube be resized to a smaller diameter and longer length (use 90 degree elbow probably) to get the same cabinet tuning result? Maybe two smaller diameter tubes?
The key is the cross-sectional area, and whether it's comprised of a single large duct or multiple smaller ones, the duct length will be essentially the same. If you use a single smaller duct, the requisite length is shorter for the same tuning, actually, but the velocity of air in the vent increases, and may be audible. Run the numbers on a pair of 1.5" versus a single 2" duct (Pi R squared) to see if you're in the ballpark. The box modeling programs can tell you what combinations of duct diameter and length produce equivalent tunings, OR, you can make your best guess and determine empirically from the built result. In any case, if you're getting close to the cabinet walls, I would install a 45° elbow on the inside end to aim the opening away from them. That counts as part of the length, of course.
 
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I just toss them in a pickle jar and screw on the cap tight, then use them at a later time to as kindling in the fire pit. They do burn well. :yes:

So I shouldn't be putting BLO on with cut up polyester shirts and storing the used rags in a paper bag? Okay, noted.
 
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