hi guys, I been doing a lot of testing and I tried the asd1001 xover at about 4500hz using the dayton H07E ellipitical waveguide horn lense with active crossover and kappa 12a xover passive at 2500 with good sounding results. I just thought I tried using the same kinda concept as the econo seleniums crossover but crossed higher instead. more testing to be done. I did not have the parts for making the 4500 passive xover as yet, will have to order some parts, so I ended up just test it with my dbx active xover crossed at that frequency.
Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker
- Thread starter Zilch
- Start date
Your project has gone off-topic for EconoWave; you'll need to pursue these issues in a separate thread.... :yes:
ASD1001 is very bandwidth limited at the bottom end. No way I'd want it going below 2Khz, period, full stop. Very small diaphragm, and there's NO replacement diaphragms available for them (you just have to replace the whole driver if you blow it).
FWIW, it's very similar (but not enough to swap diaphragms, unfortunately
) to the Peavey 14XT and RX14 drivers. Those are usually only used at 3KHz and up. Not very useful for E-wave... maybe for something with a woofer that's good up to 2.5KHz. Sounds like a job for a 10" woofer or smaller (preferably 8" or 6", probably).
Regards,
Gordon.
ROSSO
Active Member
Actually, those are the original Altec attenuator/terminal panels. The c/c dimension for the old Altec spring-loaded terminals was the same standard size as the Zilchlab PCB's so I just coupled them together using brass 1/4" threaded rod and some nylon insulating bushings. The L-pads are original.
I think the internal volume is maybe closer to 1.8 cf, not allowing anything for the woofer and horn occupancy. Originally there was a 2" fiberglass batt stapled to the rear baffle only, but I added 3-1/2" batts to the top, bottom and sides, so yeah, compared to how they started, I added a lot of fill.
Have not had time to do any critical listening, but I'd say my initial reaction is that they are very airy, but maybe need more power. Hard to tell, I'm still decompressing my ears from overexposure to my 3 pairs of L-100's.
Presently I'm using a Carver M-200t (100 wpc), but obviously there are two available Carver M-400's sitting on the bottom shelf that are just back from a tune-up at the shop.
Do I get an official e-wave serial number for these??
Still two pairs of Altec Santanas to go...
Last edited:
Russellc
Addicted Member
Here are the results of cutting a hole using the scoring jig suggested by OLDSKL and a jigsaw.
I scored the groove about 3/16 deep. I drilled a large start hole near the groove. The jigsaw blade was a 1/4" wide fine tooth. Going very slowly I kept slightly to the inside edge of the rather wide groove. It took 20 minutes to score the groove with the jig and 10 minutes to cut the circle with the saw. There were irregularities but I sanded them out easily by hand with coarse sandpaper.
Scoring the groove takes a lot of time and muscle. The threads of the deck screw are scraping the edges of the groove and gouging out a lot of material the hard way. I used a coarse thread screw and had to advance it 1/8 turn at a time. You have to constantly clear the groove of sawdust or the point hangs up. It works great but there's just no way to do this fast.
I might try this with a fine thread screw if I can find one with an appropriate point. The less aggressive threads might reduce the force necessary.
The outer edge of the scored groove makes a very nice finished edge when lightly sanded.
NOt bad!
Russellc
Bauhausler
Rational Subjectivist
FYI, Parts Express delivered a pair of PH612 to me last week. They were out of stock but apparently have some.
Russellc
Addicted Member
Actually, those are the original Altec attenuator/terminal panels. The c/c dimension for the old Altec spring-loaded terminals was the same standard size as the Zilchlab PCB's so I just coupled them together using brass 1/4" threaded rod and some nylon insulating bushings. The L-pads are original.
I think the internal volume is maybe closer to 1.8 cf, not allowing anything for the woofer and horn occupancy. Originally there was a 2" fiberglass batt stapled to the rear baffle only, but I added 3-1/2" batts to the top, bottom and sides, so yeah, compared to how they started, I added a lot of fill.
Have not had time to do any critical listening, but I'd say my initial reaction is that they are very airy, but maybe need more power. Hard to tell, I'm still decompressing my ears from overexposure to my 3 pairs of L-100's.
Presently I'm using a Carver M-200t (100 wpc), but obviously there are two available Carver M-400's sitting on the bottom shelf that are just back from a tune-up at the shop.
Do I get an official e-wave serial number for these??
Still two pairs of Altec Santanas to go...
You will have to wait for Zilch to respond, (hopefully he's sussing out B&C DE 250 crossovers) but it looks like the requirments are met in the picture!
russellc
hhibrownsbac
Super Member
Russellc, Ive seen you use the expression "sussing" a few times, what exactly are you talking about, (im a little slow) and have some DE250s also and will be ordering 2 more shortly here and am curious as to what you are referring to, thanks bud.
hhibrownsbac
Super Member
OK i could use a recommendation, i just picked up two more 2225h for free(well almost had to pay shipping) and during shipping (ups) must have dropped them good because all 4 nylon ties were broke that were holding them together. One survived and the other ended up cut from the frame of the good one. Since i alredy have 4 of these I was considering reconing these two to 2235h, ive never tried 2235hs so would it be worth it and where in the south-east can i get JBLs reconed.
Bauhausler
Rational Subjectivist
One new baffle done for OLA Ewave
Darn! This is work! I finished one baffle, or nearly. I used the OLDSKL Cesar Jig to trace the woofer hole, then cut it with a jigsaw. That worked fine. The baffle will get some countersunk holes for the 10-32 machine screws that will hold it down. The veneer is adhesive backed rosewood. I cut the hole in the veneer with a drafting compass, substituting an Xacto for a pencil. This was not as easy as it sounds, as the flexible blade wants to follow the grain.
Darn! This is work! I finished one baffle, or nearly. I used the OLDSKL Cesar Jig to trace the woofer hole, then cut it with a jigsaw. That worked fine. The baffle will get some countersunk holes for the 10-32 machine screws that will hold it down. The veneer is adhesive backed rosewood. I cut the hole in the veneer with a drafting compass, substituting an Xacto for a pencil. This was not as easy as it sounds, as the flexible blade wants to follow the grain.
Attachments
E'Waves don't get serial numbers like Indignias. It's E'Wavers that do, and you're already #50! :thmbsp:Do I get an official e-wave serial number for these??
Yes, of COURSE!
http://www.jblproservice.com/service/index.html
hhibrownsbac
Super Member
Thanks Zilch ill give them a call tomorro. And while im asking questions I was reading a thread today on someone considering hacking up some vintage classics(dont remember what they were) but it was recommended to him to possibly make up a new baffle rather than destroy the original. This made sence to me and got me thinking about these that i have http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=196466 But they have almost 7 cubic feet of internal volume. With some bracing and new baffle they would be perfect canditates for either the 2225H or the 2235H(when i get them back), so would you have any ideas on whether they would work as-is or maybe close them up inside a little to maybe something around 5 cubic feet.
Bauhausler
Rational Subjectivist
I'm pushing to get 2 done before 6/30 so I can show them off to SMAC @ your place. I also need to finish a third Advent of a different configuration by 7/6.
These Masonite woofers are the devil's work. I could refoam 2 pairs of anything else in the time it takes to do a fair job on one Masonite. And I've refoamed over 80 drivers. BAH! Whose idea was it that I had to use these?
Waitaminute... If it's back mounted and covered...