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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

I'm really excited to see progress being had in the prefab kit arena. Specifically the PE Trapezoid kit.

I'm planning on doing building some e-waves this spring and seeing all of this progress and testing is great! I'm hopeful a good repeatable design is discovered. This will really open up the ewave experience to people who want to buy and build a brand new set of speakers.

Thanks again for everyone's contributions.
 
I'm planning on doing building some e-waves this spring and seeing all of this progress and testing is great! I'm hopeful a good repeatable design is discovered. This will really open up the ewave experience to people who want to buy and build a brand new set of speakers.
The standard eWaveguide in the trapezoid cabs is next, and we've accumulated quite a lineup of alternative woofers to try:

DC300
123A
2206H
2214H
128H-1
D123
KappaLite II 3012
HPM-100
Peerless
Pioneer
B&C
Altec 414
AE TD12x

Others.... :thmbsp:
 
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The outside dimensions are 12" x 6.5". I cut 0.75" smaller at the sides, so 10.5" wide, and 0.625" top and bottom, 5.25" net. Compare to the dimensions the Bauhausler provided in his Large Advent upgrade article.

Yup. Note that with 3/4" of rim overlap you can be very sloppy with teh cut and still look like a pro. No need to CNC this hole. After cutting I taped off the area, dropped in the waveguide, aligned it by eye and used a Sharpie through the mounting holes to mark the drill points. A 1/16" drill is about right for a #6 wood screw. I'd recommend washers under the screws, as the plastic isn't all that thick/strong.

Note: do not forget pix! :-)
 
Jack, are you putting those on the 6x6 waveguides?

They will be tested on the standard waveguide first to see how good they are, and then, if suitable, they will go into some future project. If they sound OK on the larger waveguide, they should sound OK on the 6 inch.
 
Yup. Note that with 3/4" of rim overlap you can be very sloppy with teh cut and still look like a pro. No need to CNC this hole. After cutting I taped off the area, dropped in the waveguide, aligned it by eye and used a Sharpie through the mounting holes to mark the drill points. A 1/16" drill is about right for a #6 wood screw. I'd recommend washers under the screws, as the plastic isn't all that thick/strong.

Note: do not forget pix! :-)

I will be posting pics as soon as I get the baffles cut,looks like Monday. :yes:
 
My considerations are moving toward the Deltalite II 2512. We may have another to add to the list.
I forget which one Augerpro suggested. I was going to try both, but we're talking significant $$$ to do that.

I'm looking at assisted alignments with either of these. :dunno:

Edit: BB6P says K-Lite II 3012LF will deliver 114 dB at 33 Hz (-6 dB) with 105W RMS input and still be safe using Q = 1.93, 12 dB/octave @ 30.45 Hz assist. That's in the stock KDT cab tuned to 30 Hz.

[Better use Gorilla Glue and a bunch of bracing.... :tongue: ]

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Yup. Note that with 3/4" of rim overlap you can be very sloppy with teh cut and still look like a pro. No need to CNC this hole. After cutting I taped off the area, dropped in the waveguide, aligned it by eye and used a Sharpie through the mounting holes to mark the drill points. A 1/16" drill is about right for a #6 wood screw. I'd recommend washers under the screws, as the plastic isn't all that thick/strong.

Note: do not forget pix! :-)

Or you can use one of these!:yes:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10610

Also:http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Dewalt and others make these as well.

Place WG drill center hole, put in a screw, level/plumb to taste, drill rest of the holes.
 
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DeltaliteII2512.jpg


"Preliminary"...no boost and er, uh, I gotta do somethin' about that port

This is the Deltalite II 2512 @ 100 W in a MLQW enclosure. 3 cf. Port is ~25 in*2 & 10.5" long
 
Well I am today very much enjoying my efforts on the Altecs.My BD,enjoying listening to local blues channel WGLT & beverages.Still need to paint screw heads on horns. Couldnt find black ones at Lowes or Menards. Added Altec badges after pics were taken,didnt notice till then I hadent put them on grills.Also going to add to height of base, true econo made of 2 x 4s. Didnt have room on baffles for a port. Still wondering if I need to? The Model 14 cabs my woofs are from are vented so do my cabs "need" to be? They are very sealed now.Bass is pretty good but as always wondering -- could it be better.
Thanks
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Are those the Pyle horns Gordon recommended?

You can port on the bottom (depending on how you make your "feet") or on the rear.

Might could get a pair on the front, as well, actually.... :thmbsp:
 
Yes Zilch they are the ph 714 horns. Really no room on front the way woofer is mounted.It is attached to plywood then screwed from inside. Will prob go thru bottom or back if I do. Would it be gainful to port?
 
Also if I might ask if they do need ported what size,how many? I know there are programs to use but dont have them, may not know how even. Cabinets are Approx. 14 x 18 1/2 x 22 1/2 internal.
 
Start with what M14 used.

Box modeling's going nowhere without the the T/S parameters for the woofers, though we could figure out what the tuning of M14s is if we knew the port size(s) and internal dimensions.... :yes:
 
Thanks Zilch, I will do some more looking for info... havent found much other than whats on the heritage forum.
There are members here who own Model 14s. Start a thread asking for internal dimensions or volume and port diameter and depth.

[Not everybody keeps up with this one.... :tongue: ]
 
The BMS 4540ND's finally arrived late yesterday, and I was stunned at their size compared to the standard D220Ti. Neodymium sure makes a difference in size doesn't it? Let's hope the old saying "Good things come in small packages," is still true.

Wow, really small in comparison! I thought the 220 ti was kind of small!

Russellc
 
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