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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

That looks right.

If you want a 16-Ohm system, you've got to use a 16-Ohm woofer, too, or two 8's in series, and the components in the parts list for 16-Ohm woofers.... :yes:
 
Zilch said:
That looks right.

If you want a 16-Ohm system, you've got to use a 16-Ohm woofer, too, or two 8's in series, and the components in the parts list for 16-Ohm woofers.... :yes:
Click to expand...

Ah ok, cheers. So the mods that are in post 726, mentioned above, a 16 ohm L-Pad, and the parts that are listed in the parts list for a 16 ohm woofer. Got it.

I have one old Rola 12-UX that still has the original cone and 16 ohm coil, I'll prototype with that and if the results are good I'll get the other ones reconed (they need it anyway) with 16 ohm coils.

If they don't work I'll be looking for high efficiency 16 ohm woofers. I'm probably on a prayer...:scratch2:
 
New box concept

I am having trouble finding a pair of old boxes the E-Wave project. I promised a buddy I'd make a pair of boxes for his place this spring and I got to thinking about his design. He hangs a 1inch fabric tweeter in the port, not so elegant, but it worked on a smaller box he made. I think if the port is turned to the bottom and the wave guide built in a box to sit on the top this might work fine. I can't find another example of a similar box, so I'm not sure if the single fold is a valid design. He claims it's best to use a pleated edge woofer. The volume as around 4.317. It looks like there are plenty of woofer options but when I run the box calculators, they guide me to sub woofers. A little help please. Regards, Dave
 
Higher Efficency Version

Voice,
I don't know where you are located but some of us are just starting to build high(er) efficency version using JBL 123A 12" LF drivers. Or as another option look for Altec 414, or even early Pioneer or other 12" can be alnico 95+ 1w/1m. Maybe others will chime in with their progress...:scratch2:

If you want to know what other 12" might be suitable for flea amp versions ewaves you may want to do some more (re)searching and report back so we all might learn....:dunno:
 
similost said:
In case you didn't see this posted over in my other thread Zilch, does this look ok for the layout of the M19 crossover?
Click to expand...

It looks fine.
attachment.php
 
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DynacoDave said:
A little help please. Regards, Dave
Click to expand...
That appears to be more of a back-loaded horn than a reflex cabinet, which is likely why the numbers aren't working for you. That is also consistent with the suggestion to use accordian surround woofers.

I don't do bass horns, but there are others here familiar with them who may chime in with a competent analysis of the design. :yes:


similost said:
In case you didn't see this posted over in my other thread Zilch, does this look ok for the layout of the M19 crossover?
Click to expand...
I'm afraid my layout for it is a blank sheet of Clearprint right now, but it appears you are following good practice. See the pics of Skywave and Dgwogo's builds for some ideas, maybe.... :thmbsp:
 
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Let's not be confusing D123 and 123A; different drivers.

D123 is older, a midbass driver, really, and came in a 16-Ohm version.

I don't recall the efficiency, but I believe it's posted in this thread somewhere.... :yes:
 
Zilch said:
Did you build from the plans I posted several years ago on LHF?

That's going to work, too, I bet, and constant directivity will make a major difference.
...
Click to expand...

Yeah, your BB6 sim. Sounds pretty good with 2225's in it.

It took about a year to piece together from scraps of nice 19mm ply, 1" MDF and 5/8" particle board (as a sandwich with the 19mm baffle). I think the hardest part was finding 6" PVC pipe, cause I had to buy a whole 10' length, still have enough pipe for two more if anyone needs it... Of course the actual hardest part is moving it! I read on a Brit site a while back that running the two woofs out of phase makes it sound much better? I just brought the two leads out to a pair of banana jacks each, so reversing one would be dead easy, but it's been empty since I read that, I'm hoping to get the 2226's loaded this week. Gonna be doing a little demolition here soon...

I had A Broun Soun recone the 130's to 16 ohms, with paper domes, years back, the mids are a little smoother than stock, but roll off sooner, like 2K or so. (On axis.) I did try the pair of D131's with stock domes, but I pulled them in favor of 128H-1's until I can finish the >95 dB XO to bring the WG up to match them. The 131's are not only lower case, but italic in the boom department!
 
4343 said:
Yeah, your BB6 sim. Sounds pretty good with 2225's in it.
Click to expand...
That's nice to hear; I never knew anyone ever built it.

I'd like to say, "Bring it to ZilchLab and I'll measure it!" :tongue:

Inverting the phase sounds like a bad idea, considering the principle upon which it works.

I rarely play the big one -- it's just too much.

[Maybe if I had a big HT setup.... :dunno: ]
 
I have the itch to try another ewave project, and this one will be a more costly endeavor than my first attempt, ewaver #41.

My plans are to use Barzilay cabs 4.5 cf and JBL woofers I was considering the 2235H as in the 4430's. I would like to use LE14H's, but they are hard to find and costly.

Then, the BMS 4555 and JBL W/G. Is there a crossover design already for this combo, and how hard would it be to add the L-pads for Mid and High attenuation, like the 4430's?

Thanks for any suggestions.
 
The EWave has been designed around simple reflex boxes, either sealed or ported. Stick with the design and you'll be very happy with the results. No complicated cuts, angles, etc, etc. Easy to model. Just pick a box that has enough volume for the woofer to really work.


DynacoDave said:
Here is the box design.
Click to expand...
 
WinISD questions

Hey folks, I have been playing around with the the WinISD software and I have a question. When designing the box and the ports to get to a certain frequency, there is a square marked "Vent mach:". This is on the vents tab. SOmetime on my designs it is red and has a Qes/pi in it, other times it is green with a number. Well, I assume green is good.

But, I can mess around with vents and that number changes. It goes up and down. Does a person want to try and get that number as large or as small as it can be??

What does it mean too?

Thanks!
 
BHamm said:
I have the itch to try another ewave project, and this one will be a more costly endeavor than my first attempt, ewaver #41.

My plans are to use Barzilay cabs 4.5 cf and JBL woofers I was considering the 2235H as in the 4430's. I would like to use LE14H's, but they are hard to find and costly.

Then, the BMS 4555 and JBL W/G. Is there a crossover design already for this combo, and how hard would it be to add the L-pads for Mid and High attenuation, like the 4430's?

Thanks for any suggestions.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you want to build what I am... Same cab, or at least size wise it sounds like it is, and same guide and driver.. I'm using a Lambda woofer though...

I have a feeling Zilch will probably tell you the same crossover I'm using, the modified Altec M19 crossover.. Just not sure if that works with the woofer you want to use. As far as I understand there hasn't really be a crossover designed by anyone yet specifically for the 4555 driver.
 
For sake of flexability.....I really enjoy the improved xovers in my Model 19's. Having the flexability of dual level control certainly helps tune in/ balance the 811 gorns. My question is this, would it be worth while to also design such a network for the Econowave where one has the same flexability in having the dual L-Pads? As if Zilch and other have not thought of it all for this great design.......
DC
 
Deal me in

Ordered all the necessary parts this morning for my Ewaves:banana:

Plan is to revamp an old pair of Sony floor speakers and see if they can sound good. The cabinets are in good shape but the 10" woofers and passive radiators need refoaming. They always made decent bass but mids and highs were lacking, so these are good candidates to be hacked on. I'm going to double the thickness of the baffles and add bracing and fill to get them a bit more solid. If the Sony woofers don't work out, I may swap them out with Dayton drivers and run 2 each at 2.5.


I'm excited to get in on the fun:thmbsp:



Tony
 
Jcricket said:
Hey folks, I have been playing around with the the WinISD software and I have a question. When designing the box and the ports to get to a certain frequency, there is a square marked "Vent mach:". This is on the vents tab. SOmetime on my designs it is red and has a Qes/pi in it, other times it is green with a number. Well, I assume green is good.

But, I can mess around with vents and that number changes. It goes up and down. Does a person want to try and get that number as large or as small as it can be??

What does it mean too?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

The vent mach shows the velocity of the air through the port. If it's too fast it will chuff or whistle. From what I see, if the vent is relatively too small in diameter, you'll get into red, which you are correct in assuming is bad. I'm pretty sure the numbers associated with it are in the included user guide, but you might want to look here for more:
http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=ventcalculator
When you increase the diameter to get back in green, to eliminate the possibility of whistling, then you have to make the port longer. Suddenly a 5' port is required. Hahaha. It's a fun game, anyway.
 
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