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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

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Duffinator said:
Significantly more than the LE14H-3? :no: :no: :no:
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I'd be curious to find out about that myself... I know the LE14H-3 is a pretty special woofer, but these monstrosities I got sure do sound to be something beyond special that I've ever heard... I'd love to see a side by side measurement comparison to see how well they hold up against each other..
 
similost said:
I'd be curious to find out about that myself... I know the LE14H-3 is a pretty special woofer, but these monstrosities I got sure do sound to be something beyond special that I've ever heard... I'd love to see a side by side measurement comparison to see how well they hold up against each other..
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I'd like to see the same with JBL 2235H thrown into the mix.:yes:

Russellc
 
Russellc said:
I'd like to see the same with JBL 2235H thrown into the mix.:yes:

Russellc
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That would be pretty interesting too.. One thing you have to remember too though, is the LE14 and the 2235 are meant to be more of a sub type woofer, more so with the 2235. The xmax for it is something like what.. 17mm on the 2235? The xmax on mine is only 6mm.. and even with that small movement, I've been pretty shocked at the amount of punch I'm getting.. Because of the much lower xmax I had with mine, I really was sweating if they would be up to the job.. They FAR surpassed my expectations..
 
aaaahh.. yeah.. those numbers look a lot better... I guess I should have went to the horses mouth for the correct answer..
 
I'm trying to figure out what you need to do to figure out port dimensions and tuning. I found a couple of programs that call for the volume of the box and size of woofers and xmax and it calculates. Everything I have found seems to be talking about car subwoofers though. Would that work pretty much the same.

Is there a prefered program for this? And what do I need to know to get the right results. I have the Theile/Small parameters for my woofers.

How do I know what tuning frequencey to use?
 
Assuming there better is a bit presumptuous. I had almost pulled the trigger on the Lambda TD12M for my build when I fell into the LE14H-3's. I may now try to keep the CD JBL for an all JBL system. When I'm done with the build, I can truck them to Zilch Lab for measurements.

similost said:
I'd be curious to find out about that myself... I know the LE14H-3 is a pretty special woofer, but these monstrosities I got sure do sound to be something beyond special that I've ever heard... I'd love to see a side by side measurement comparison to see how well they hold up against each other..
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BHamm said:
Assuming there better is a bit presumptuous. I had almost pulled the trigger on the Lambda TD12M for my build when I fell into the LE14H-3's. I may now try to keep the CD JBL for an all JBL system. When I'm done with the build, I can truck them to Zilch Lab for measurements.
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I'm not assuming the Lambda's are better. I know each does something better than the other, and that's why I would love to see measurements of each in the same box to see where each shines and each is weaker comparatively..
 
wianieq said:
Thats easy enough. How did you determine what tuning frequency to use?
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With a guess, and everyone elses education... You need to try and do some box modeling and mapping using a program like Unibox or similar that will give you a good idea of what type of tuning you drivers will like best..
 
oldskl said:
Will the Kappalite woofer with the deluxe crossover work with the Std E-wave (DE220ti and jbl waveguide). Thus being a hybrid Econolux version.
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Two resistors and a capacitor aren't going to break the bank finding out. ;)

I reiterate, however, that each HF driver/waveguide combination is different in detail, and that's the realm we're working here. The DE250/QSC is particularly difficult, in part because of the increased C/C distance it imposes upon the system design and the increased depth behind the baffle I have shown in pics. You've witnessed us struggling with that for months now. The raw response curve is different from that of the D220Ti/PT combo, as well.... :yes:
 
boy this premium business must get pricey!

and here I thought I was moving into the high end world acquiring BMS drivers! I'm guessing JBL offers cost a great deal more.
 
If you can find them the JBL 476Be's run a cool $7000.00 a pair. Right up there with TAD 4003's.

The JBL 2452H-SL's can be had from JBL Pro parts for a meer $1429.00 ea.:sigh:
 
Yep.. and if I had a bottomless bank account... ;)

Kind of interesting here though.... as much as we've talked about pro speakers "supposedly" not being very good for home use, is sure seems a few of us building these wave speakers sure are crossing over into pro speakers pretty heavily...

I believe mine re-enforce that notion by the fact that at lower levels they don't sound anywhere near their potential, and after you get to playing with the volume a bit, and find the sweet spot, it's quite evident they were meant to be used for a concert...
 
similost said:
Kind of interesting here though.... as much as we've talked about pro speakers "supposedly" not being very good for home use, is sure seems a few of us building these wave speakers sure are crossing over into pro speakers pretty heavily....
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Many of the principles and technologies developed for pro audio are applicable to home use, constant directivity and high efficiency being two major ones. Except in studio monitors, Pro doesn't pay much attention to some of the details that matter in the repurposing, is all. It's the difference between A7 and Model 19, if you will, and JBL has advanced this to high art in their TOTL consumer offerings.... :yes:
 
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