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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

If you want the lazy way out, I happen to have a bunch of sims for LE14A saved. Just give the internal volume of the C36. Also, wiredbecker used that woofer in that cabinet, so you could just copy him.
 
Thanks, man! It looks like its internal dimensions are 17 7/8" x 12 1/8" x 20 3/4" which I think works out to 2.6 CF (gross volume). Does that sound about right?

I did earlier PM wiredbecker, so he may let me know, too.

Much appreciated.
 
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Okay, let's say 2.25 ft³ after subtractions (best to error on the side of too small, because the ports will end up too long instead of too short). 4" diameter by 9.75" long is about the minimum port you can get away with (you can chop off about 1/2" length if you're doing a flared end). A pair of 3"x12" would be slightly better for keeping the airspeed low. A single 5" x 16" would be better still.

This is all for tuning to 35Hz, which is what I'd do in that size, as it keeps your output high in the important 40-50Hz region. You can tune lower to get a more gradual bass roll off with a lower f10, and drop the point where the excursion goes out of control from the upper 20s to the lower 20s. If your room gain is just right, that could be better. Personally, I wouldn't do it, as you'll lose some punch and your ports will get long.
 
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Hey Zonk,

I haven't finished my C36/Le14a ewaves. They're literally buried under a dozen+ empty cabinets. I have to get the garage clear and all the cabs in there before I can get back to work on 'em. Got no space!
 
Zonker92 said:
Thanks, man! It looks like its internal dimensions (gross) are 17 7/8" x 12 1/8" x 20 3/4" which I think works out to 2.6 CF. Does that sound about right?

I did earlier PM wiredbecker, so he may let me know, too.

Much appreciated.
Click to expand...

2.6 ft^3 is correct for C36. :thmbsp:

IME, a LE14 in 2.5 cubic feet seems to work well with about 32Hz vent tuning. I'd leave enough vent length, to try that (you can always cut it off shorter, to raise the frequency to 35 Hz).

Regards,
Gordon.
 
wiredbecker, that's too funny! Mine are strictly theoretical right now, but I have a deal on the cabinets and I'm close to pulling the trigger on the rest. We should race! :D

Gordon, thanks so much. I want to make this pair as a housewarming gift for a buddy, and I'm getting really psyched about it.
 
GordonW said:
IME, a LE14 in 2.5 cubic feet seems to work well with about 32Hz vent tuning. I'd leave enough vent length, to try that (you can always cut it off shorter, to raise the frequency to 35 Hz).
Click to expand...
Note that since I used 2.25 ft³ for the sims, your suggestion is pretty likely to be the real-world outcome for the lengths I posted ;). That is, if aging surrounds and spiders don't throw a wrench in it.
 
These are C36s, yes?

I'm hoping so ...

Apparently, they used to have legs, a D-130 woofer and a 2402 tweeter, and there are JBL badges on the backs.

If I have to saw out the baffles to replace them, I wonder what the best type of saw would be?
 

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Zilch and I always used a tool he called the "Barbie Sawzall".
Basically just a cordless mini Makita Sawzall. Note: not actual size!

310QAKE7EYL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


That said, we did have some new Econowave baffles routed out for my C36's that install right on top of the old ones--there's just enough space with the new baffle in place to slide the stock grilles back into place. Here's how it worked out earlier in the thread:

c361.jpg

c362.jpg

c363.jpg
 
Ah yes; sore those! So nice. You just left an edge of the old baffle in place? Are you gluing, or screwing, the new baffles down?

I don't think the ones I found have grilles. I'll have to make some and find some vintage style fabric.

My photos above do look like C36s, don't they? (Now I'm escared.)

How did you polish the woofer frames?

Thanks!
 
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I can confirm from recent experience that if you leave a substantial portion of the old baffle, spray it with several coats of plasti-dip, place a the new baffle on top, and screw it on from through the old baffle from behind, it is rock-solid and removable. I mean, it will seal onto the old baffle pretty good, but you can take out the screws and pop it off with a mallet, which is better than having to saw it off if you make a mistake or change your plan.
 
Our new baffles were just sealed with foam tape and screwed together against the old ones! We only cut as much as we needed to cut for driver fitment. Dumptruck's plasti-dip plan is a good idea.

Oh yeah, I forgot I need to clean that old Lancer 99 black paint off the woofer basket. I'll probably end up using a q-tip and some nail polish remover. Carefully.
 
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Nice. Sounds like a plan. I have some useful Parts Express stick-on gasket material.

Oh; I see that's paint! I thought it was a mirror-finish reflection! :D

933 pages ... amazing. We're close to 1,000 now ... How the heck do you guys navigate this monster? I guess just searching it, huh?
 
Yall have been building some great looking speakers. Is time I give it a try. I am thinking about the DeltaLite II 2512 and Selenium D220Ti on Parts Express' QSC PL-000446GP. Tom Mcnally over at diytube.com is building me a three channel RH84 amp should have about 4 watts. So I need to build three speakers for the amp. I know 4 watts that's why I am leaning towards the DeltaLite II 2512 and the reason for the D220Ti is that they are $80.00 chepper than DE250 x3 saving me $240. I appreciate any thoughts. Brian
 
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