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Pulling to the right when brakes applied.

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Safe to presume it's probably the front left caliper sticking/hung up if the car and steering wheel pull to right when brakes are applied?
Check by feeling the wheels near the bolt patterns after stopping. Right wheel noticeably warmer than left? Then yes-unless possibly left caliper is compromised by external contamination or a brake pad issue reducing the friction of that assembly compared to the right.
If braking is uneven as in it ferls like something is sticking at the rate of wheel rotation (like a tight spot on the rotor) also, there's where to address with a wrench session.
 
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The pulling/bias could be either suspension or brake system related.

If suspension, could be spring/tie rods, or some other related issue.

If break related, it could be brake calipers sticking/brake line/warped rotor or brake pad worn out.

What ever the cause, it is critical that this braking problem be looked after.


And if it's pulling to the left, the problem will be on this side of the vehicle.


Q
 
There are some other possibilities like bad brake hoses or clogged brake line but if the car's not too old, calipers or pads are probably the most likely issue.
 
Its older '91 and not driven much. Fairly low miles for the year (50k). This is why I suspect stuck caliper or along that line. Was fine when parked before winter storage
 
Its older '91 and not driven much. Fairly low miles for the year (50k). This is why I suspect stuck caliper or along that line. Was fine when parked before winter storage
Could easily be a corrupted flexible hose from the body to the caliper. If you can crack open the bleeder screw on the suspect caliper you should get an immediate fluid drip from it. No juice, probably the hose -unless its really low on fluid.. Had that happen on a car long ago. Took my young brain a while to figure it out. New hose, problem solved.
 
Old enough to warrant a detailed brake inspection. Full caliper/rotor removal in order to address any sticking slides, dragging caliper pistons, rotor defects. Disc brakes not at all hard to do, given proper tools.
 
Preventive maintenance is never a bad idea. Yer gonna have to get in there & inspect/ diagnose regardless, hope the cause manifests itself readily!:thumbsup:
 
may be worth a fluid flush if have to open the system. Have to bleed it anyway, may as well change the juice in the reservoir and get fresh in the lines.
I do do that stuff. Flush coolant, change oil despite low miles per year, etc., so it's not like all that stuff is 1991 OEM. But, yes, that would be part of it too because it has been some years. It's basic 4 wheel disk brakes. No ABS of any sort on the 3rd gens to potentially complicate matters.
 
I only mention it because changing brake fluid is one of those things many don't even consider.

I actually need to change it on mine. One of the cars sat about 5 years in the garage. The other two got fluid changes in the last 2 years because I had to do front calipers.
 
To isolate I would put it up on 4 jack stands and have someone slowly apply the brakes and release (car in neutral) while you turn each wheel manually. If something is not catching the wheel, or catching it late, address the breaks on that axle.
 
I'm going to approach one wheel at a time for the diagnosis starting with front left. But, won't be happening in the immediate future as we have other plans for tomorrow and the weekend that don't involve driving this car.
 
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I don't know the net but early on I had the alignment tweaked with about as much negative camber as they could get (which I understand isn't a whole lot with the stock mount/plate) and a bit more positive caster. I understand those things would tend to cause scrub radius to move in the negative direction but, again, I don't know what the overall/net might be.

It's never pulled until this driving season.
 
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