Is your car sensitive to air pressure? My S2000 is extremely sensitive. A five-pound air pressure difference is very noticeable with even light braking.
The higher the performance tire, the more critical it is.
Pulling to the right when brakes applied.
- Thread starter whoaru99
- Start date
The higher the performance tire, the more critical it is.
I just brought it up because there have been several posts on the S2KI (S2000) site where guys have gone through brake pads, calipers, alignments, changing tie-rods, changing MacPherson Struts, and still have the car pull on braking.
Only to find out either the tires were worn unevenly or the pressures were not correct. If you have summer or track tires, the symptoms can be more sensitive.
Good luck with the brakes!
felix_katze
Well-Known Member
Yeah, that would be the general plan.
Just not into shotgun "recapping" it without first identifying the actual problem.
Nah, it's of an age that an overhaul would be the sensible choice. Rubber seaals deteriorate with age, with mileage and use shortening the life even further. I'd take this as a sign it's due.
Surely overhaul kits are available for reasonable money?
whoaru99
Epic Member
I understand the point but I'm not going to work on every corner until I have the problem identified for sure. Might get to that this weekend but maybe not. Lots of drama going on now that's not directly me or the car, but none the less affected. Will see.
felix_katze
Well-Known Member
Fronts do most of the work, and I suspect you'd barely notice an issue with the rear that wasn't extreme.
Only thing I can think of that might reveal something useful is putting some black marker on the discs and see if they disappear more or less evenly after a short application eg up the driveway and brake...
And maybe just pull the calipers and inspect.
Only thing I can think of that might reveal something useful is putting some black marker on the discs and see if they disappear more or less evenly after a short application eg up the driveway and brake...
And maybe just pull the calipers and inspect.
Some of this stuff has parts available for less than rebuild kits. I needed calipers for my mark 7, seal kit was 10, and the slide pin bushings were a couple bucks. Reman calipers with new pins and bushings were 15.
Phenolic pistons had scoring so I couldn't just throw seals in it, those were like 22.
Phenolic pistons had scoring so I couldn't just throw seals in it, those were like 22.
whoaru99
Epic Member
Actually managed to pull off the wheel and caliper this evening.
Seems to me the piston is stuck, or mostly so anyway. Caliper and pads slid off the disk real easy, put a block of wood that left a little space but not enough to spit out the piston, mashed the brake, but didn't look like it had moved at all. Apparently it moved just a tiny enough amount it was being a bugger to try to put the caliper back on so squeezed it a bit with C-clamp then it went on but still was a bit tight. So, yeah, seems like the piston isn't pistoning properly. Lol.
Set of new, red powdercoated PowerStop calipers is $130. Plain remans a fraction of that but I sorta like the red to match the car and wheel accents.
Over the years had contemplated doing the 1LE front disk upgrade (10.5" to 12" rotors and dual piston calipers) but that's approaching $1500 if I buy with spindles, about $1000 if I modify mine (and don't mess up). Don't know I drive it "properly" enough to need that. My understanding it doesn't decrease stopping distance all that much but decreases fade quite a lot. 1LE was a fairly rare factory option sorta geared toward autocross.
Seems to me the piston is stuck, or mostly so anyway. Caliper and pads slid off the disk real easy, put a block of wood that left a little space but not enough to spit out the piston, mashed the brake, but didn't look like it had moved at all. Apparently it moved just a tiny enough amount it was being a bugger to try to put the caliper back on so squeezed it a bit with C-clamp then it went on but still was a bit tight. So, yeah, seems like the piston isn't pistoning properly. Lol.
Set of new, red powdercoated PowerStop calipers is $130. Plain remans a fraction of that but I sorta like the red to match the car and wheel accents.
Over the years had contemplated doing the 1LE front disk upgrade (10.5" to 12" rotors and dual piston calipers) but that's approaching $1500 if I buy with spindles, about $1000 if I modify mine (and don't mess up). Don't know I drive it "properly" enough to need that. My understanding it doesn't decrease stopping distance all that much but decreases fade quite a lot. 1LE was a fairly rare factory option sorta geared toward autocross.
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felix_katze
Well-Known Member
If it's $130 for both fronts (L&R) then that's a no brainer...
whoaru99
Epic Member
Hardware, but no pads.
I know I'll take flak on this but, frankly, I'm thinking to use the existing pads. They have tons of material left, rotors are not scored/rough/glazed, pads not glazed, etc. Braking was fine until it wasn't.
Of course, inspection of the other side will play into that decision too.
At least you can use the old pads to see if the new calipers fix most of the pulling problem.
As long as there isn't a ridge created by rotor wear your're OK to re-use all these parts.
