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Pulling to the right when brakes applied.

I see a lot of things I think are a waste of time and money but they're done anyway. It's my turn now. LOL.
Put the calipers on, bleed the system and enjoy your car. As long as the pads and rotors are good there's absolutely no need to screw with them, as you've already figured out for yourself. Pic of car?
 
Thought I was going to get all the brake fluid and lines flushed but forgot clearance on the left rear doesn't allow me to get a hose on the bleeder to vac out the old fluid from that segment. The Helper will be available tomorrow to do the good old press and hold so as to squirt it out and make mess all over.
 
Thought I was going to get all the brake fluid and lines flushed but forgot clearance on the left rear doesn't allow me to get a hose on the bleeder to vac out the old fluid from that segment. The Helper will be available tomorrow to do the good old press and hold so as to squirt it out and make mess all over.

Don't forget to press brake pedal and crack the lines at the master cylinder or hydro-boost unit. Air can get trapped high up in the system.
 
The Helper will be available tomorrow to do the good old press and hold so as to squirt it out and make mess all over.
Tell helper do NOT push the pedal all the way to the floor - slowly depress about 3/4 of the way. All the way to the floor can mess with the ABS and/or proportioning valve.
 
I've never had a lot of luck with vacuum bleeders personally, for just flushing a lot of the time a gravity bleed works just fine though.
 
Thought of something else to try that might faciitate vac bleeding this left rear.

Rather than hose straight onto the bleeder, going to put a hole in the side and try 90-deg approach, pushing that over the bleeder. I'll just pinch off the one open end with a small vice grip and suction at the other end.
 
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I've never had a lot of luck with vacuum bleeders personally, for just flushing a lot of the time a gravity bleed works just fine though.
Started with gravity. After about 5 minutes and 5 drops of fluid it was time for plan B. The vacuum went very well for me other than the clearance on this one corner.

The "vacuum" tool I use is 60cc veterinary syringe with no needle and 8" of vinyl tubing. I buy them at the local fleet/farm. Two or three in a bag for bit over two bucks. The syringes, that is. Vinyl tubing is in a different aisle. ;)

About a pull n half had fresh fluid down to the longest, right rear, then finished that pull and one (or was it two??) more for good measure.
 
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Good deal. The ones i've used have been air powered and they just seem to suck air around the bleeder, makes it hard to know when the air is actually bled out of the system.

Not everything will gravity bleed unfortunately, but its handy when it does.
 
Last one I gravity bled was an 80s Mustang, not exactly a lot of rise from calipers to master cylinder on that either but it worked.
 
The saga continues.

Finishing the fluid flush, come to the left front caliper last (still the old one installed), since it's the shortest run, and nothing but a little dribble of fluid come out of the bleeder then stops.

Disconnect the brake hose from the caliper and some spills out but then stops pretty quickly and no running/dripping from the brake hose. Push the pedal and nothing come from the open, dangling brake line.

Since only the left front brake wasn't working, thinking now maybe not the caliper at all. Rather, the proportioning valve. The front left and right brakes feed separately from the proportioning valve.

Certainly I will check the brake line and hose for obstruction but fear won't be that lucky. Looks like the direct OEM-type replacement proportioning valve is NLA so if that's it will have to take a chance on a used one or some sort of will-fit type replacement.
 
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should just be a tee that splits the juice from the MC in the front circuit even if it is built into the prop valve. The only proportioning that happens is front/rear, not left/right.

Is this a new hose as well? I've had those fail in this sort of manner. I suppose its possible to clog a hard line as well, cracking it loose at the prop valve would confirm that if its not a bad hose.
 
No parts replaced so far, aside from working through the old fluid flushing when this new twist came up.

Original plan and still is/was to flush all the old fluid from master cylinder and all four corners before installing the new front calipers. But, now this.

Somewhere I have the factory service/repair manual for this car. Probably going to dig that out sooner rather than later since I'll eventually need the torques anyway.
 
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Ah, I thought you had already installed the new calipers and were doing the flush as part of the bleed process.

crack the fitting between the hose and the hard line and see if that gives fluid flow as expected. I wouldn't be surprised if the hose collapsed.
 
Ah, I thought you had already installed the new calipers and were doing the flush as part of the bleed process.

crack the fitting between the hose and the hard line and see if that gives fluid flow as expected. I wouldn't be surprised if the hose collapsed.
The few times I have replaced calipers do the hoses too.
 
I do if they aren't recent, last two sets of calipers had hoses done within the last 5 so I left the hose alone. Last hoses I did kept the calipers, they hadn't failed, they just looked absolutely terrible and I didn't want to give the lady back her car in such a sketchy condition. One of the hoses was twisted, both had visible inner cord showing. Inner tie rod ends were wasted which made it drive horribly, and one of the sway bar bushings was completely disintegrated so it made awful banging noises. I had it to fix a transmission cooler line leak but I got the OK to make it not death on wheels before giving it back.
 
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