• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

100,000 even 200,000 mile vehicle club

Alobar,

I have an 87 with the 2.9L /5 sp 4x4 and not too rusty I got for almost nothing 2 yrs ago and it will run for a bit and stop.
There isn't much to those old trucks and on mine, I think it's electrical also, but will change the fuel filter and check the pressure 1st.
I think mine only has 100 to 120K miles. Mine has an ignition module so that could be a cheap fix also.

I looked on Rock Auto and there is no ignition module listed for the 1998 and the only other cheap part is the camshaft
sensor and I read by the 90's the engine CPU's had gotten to be very reliable. The other thing to check is
the fuses and grounds.

IMHO I would keep that good ole reliable simple and cheap to fix truck, as for sure you will regret getting rid of it after!

I wish mine had the 3.0 as I think it's the best of the V6's in the Fords for longevity.
 
The only vehicle I've ever owned (so far) that hit 200k is my little 1999 Chevy Cavalier. 2.2L, 4speed auto trans.

Forgot to mention there are a few over 100k vehicles around here.

2001 Savana van @160k
2000 Silverado pickup @131k
2014 Honda Accord @ 120k
1992 Miata @ 112k
1972 Olds Cutlass ragtop @ 112k

--------------
 
1989 Pontiac Safari Wagon 146k miles
1997 Chevrolet Suburban 2500 267k miles
2000 Buick LeSabre 145k miles

My poor beloved Astro Van made it 167k when 4th gear quit. I sold it to a guy who wanted to convert it into a Tiny House.
 
1991 Volvo 740 wagon, 322k, daily driver. I've had the car since 130k and apart from basic maintenance I did a preventative head gasket replacement at 250k. Doesn't burn a drop of oil between changes and still has compression across all four in the 130s. She won't get you anywhere in a hurry, but you can repair most anything on her with a ham sandwich in one hand. Here's a pic from last summer, replacing the 2009 date coded Interstate battery. I took it to send to a friend who I had been bragging to about the 11 year old battery only a few days earlier. Guess I jinxed it!
1572.jpeg
 
1991 Volvo 740 wagon, 322k, daily driver. I've had the car since 130k and apart from basic maintenance I did a preventative head gasket replacement at 250k. Doesn't burn a drop of oil between changes and still has compression across all four in the 130s. She won't get you anywhere in a hurry, but you can repair most anything on her with a ham sandwich in one hand. Here's a pic from last summer, replacing the 2009 date coded Interstate battery. I took it to send to a friend who I had been bragging to about the 11 year old battery only a few days earlier. Guess I jinxed it!
View attachment 2214255
I had Volvo's for years. Unfortunately what got them were persistent electrical problems. The 240's were loud inside the car but would run forever. My 850 got into a minor accident at 240K mi and the insurance company would not fix it. They just handed me the money and some adverts and said "here are comps you can buy". Of course that does not account for how well the car was maintained. I hate insurance companies.
 
hey just handed me the money and some adverts and said "here are comps you can buy". Of course that does not account for how well the car was maintained. I hate insurance companies.

Similar when my recently repainted 86 Towncar got backed into and the door and fender were caved in. They looked up 1986 Lincoln with 200k and said it was worth 700 bucks. I sent them stacks and stacks of receipts and what I felt to be a more comparable car condition-wise, though without the upgraded brakes and all that. Ended up with I think 3500 out of it, but I still need to have that whole side of the car re-painted. There was an unrelated incident that caved in the quarter panel, so that also needs to be fixed or swapped. I have a quarter, just no idea who is actually competent enough to swap it and do the paint work without causing more problems than its worth.
 
Gadget,

Can you weld or are you willing to learn as really good gas Mig or even TIG welders can be quite affodable used and useful for other jobs if you buy a big enough one. Books and youtube for info.
 
All of my cars so far make it over 100k, but none have gotten to 200k yet.

2001 Chevy S10 (142k) - I liked this little truck, but rust started to cause some big problems and I needed something with more room when I started a family.

2004 Toyota Camry (135k) - A very reliable car but was unfortunately totaled in a bad accident. The safety systems did their jobs and there were no injuries.

2011 VW Jetta sportwagen (132k) - Comfortable, fun to drive, and the hatchback could hold a surprising amount of cargo. The car was also a complete and total POS. I couldn't believe how often it broke and how difficult and expensive it was to fix. The final straw was the sunroof randomly destroying itself...it would have cost more to fix than the car was worth. I was glad to sell it for peanuts and I hope it got crushed.

2013 Nissan Altima - Owned since 2015 and is my current daily driver at 144k. Still looks great inside and out, and is just as reliable as the old Camry. Other than routine maintenance, I think it's needed two minor repairs. I have high hopes for this car breaking 200k, maybe even 250k.
 
Gadget,

Can you weld or are you willing to learn as really good gas Mig or even TIG welders can be quite affodable used and useful for other jobs if you buy a big enough one. Books and youtube for info.

I'm terrible with a MIG, can't see what I'm doing and the results are as horrible as you might expect. I'm also absolutely useless at bodywork, so I'd rather find someone competent and pay them to do it right, rather than do a bunch of work and then pay someone even more to fix my screwup.

I'm way more comfortable with mechanical work. I did hang a replacement door and front fender and got that lined up, but thats just bolting parts on. Any fool with a wrench can manage that.
 
A little over 302k on the Dodge Dakota and it's officially done. I'll be sad to see it go, but it just needs too much work to make it worth fixing at this point. I priced it out and even if I do most of the work it'll still be north of $7k to get it back up and going. I just picked up a brand new Nissan NV2500 so I have to decide if I want to bother trying to sell it or just donate it. I'm leaning towards donating it just so I don't have to deal with tire kickers on a truck that's financially totaled.
 
Sorry you have to let her go @halkaloogie. My 1998 Dakota is only at 240k and still running pretty strong but she has some rust and dings. Gotta admit with gas prices climbing again, 12-14mpg kinda sucks. The $500 I could get selling it,.. nah, I'll keep it for little longer. Wifey's 2007 Volvo SUV is at 255K, trans is getting a bit weak but the 6 cylinder motor is still good.
 
It would take us a long time to put 100,000 miles on a car .. we bought a Pontiac Vibe (new) back in 2005 . Still going strong mechanically, everything works and looks great :thumbsup: after 16 years .. 88,000 miles. It's been my wife's work car for the last 9 years .. was due to be traded in this year (we bough a new car) .. but the wife wanted to keep it .. so we traded in our 2012 Nissan Sentra (51,000 miles) instead.

The Vibe will probably be our first car to make it over 100,000 miles (we swapped cars out every 3 years during my military career) .. most miles I put on a car prior was my 1999 Suzuki Esteem (bought new) which I traded in at 97,000 back in 2012.

iu
 
Last edited:
I used to be somewhat of a backyard mech, with older rigs before that sort of thing became too difficult. I'm pretty sure it is a relatively small problem but living out here in nowhere land, the mechanic shops are few and I don't fully trust any of them. I wouldn't say this pickup is a rust bucket, but it has had a hard life and is now my beater work truck. Probably could get $500 if it could be driven away. I would like to have the ability to plug in a laptop and see what that might reveal but I probably wouldn't know what I was looking at. There is always youtube I suppose, and that was where I started by changing out the crank sensor..
@Alobar....just a thought....check the timing belt. Could have slipped a notch or could be wearing out. Been there...
 
Back
Top Bottom