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100,000 even 200,000 mile vehicle club

I inherited a set of Michelins on a used car.
I had more trouble with them than any other make of tire, including generic box store stuff.
 
1984 VW Vanagon I bought new has 350,000. Original manual transmission. Engine rebuilt around 220,000. Use to be my daily driver and surfboard to the beach carrier. Now it’s just when I need to carry something big so it doesn’t get driven much these days
 
N8Nagel said:
I kept getting sidewall splits from hitting potholes which of course wasn't covered by road hazard as they claimed improper installation. It was stupid to put tires with that little sidewall (225/30R19) on a daily driver anyway but still the stock Yokohamas didn't fail like that they just wore out super fast. I swapped to 17" wheels from a 328i when I got the BFGs, maybe I could try DWS again but I've never had a problem with Michelin Pilot Sport AS so that's likely what I'll be ordering next week.
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Michelin has a rebate this week on the Pilot AS4 making a set of four $17 more than the Conti DWS 06 Plus... I know what I'm going to order now for sure

Tires right now are BFG g-force comp-2 A/S and they've lasted OK, but they are worn out now and I haven't been happy with the way they get louder as they wear, plus they still have a tiny bit of tread on them but the rubber is so hard now (installed July 2016; I know this because I'm on Tire Rack's web site right now) that ABS braking on dry asphalt is less than impressive. I want to say I had the Pilot Sport AS on my old GTI back in 2003-2004ish, and I just bought a set of Pilot AS4s for it a couple months ago but have never driven it (it's my mom's car now and they don't want to come visit me or vice versa because virus) but my dad says he likes 'em. I have had a good opinion of Michelin tires ever since my mom bought a Golf with them already installed back around 1990ish, those wore like iron but never got noisy and had reasonable grip. Would get a set of Michelin ATs for my Jeep (which also needs tires) but oh my those are expensive...
 
N8Nagel said:
Michelin has a rebate this week on the Pilot AS4 making a set of four $17 more than the Conti DWS 06 Plus... I know what I'm going to order now for sure

Tires right now are BFG g-force comp-2 A/S and they've lasted OK, but they are worn out now and I haven't been happy with the way they get louder as they wear, plus they still have a tiny bit of tread on them but the rubber is so hard now (installed July 2016; I know this because I'm on Tire Rack's web site right now) that ABS braking on dry asphalt is less than impressive. I want to say I had the Pilot Sport AS on my old GTI back in 2003-2004ish, and I just bought a set of Pilot AS4s for it a couple months ago but have never driven it (it's my mom's car now and they don't want to come visit me or vice versa because virus) but my dad says he likes 'em. I have had a good opinion of Michelin tires ever since my mom bought a Golf with them already installed back around 1990ish, those wore like iron but never got noisy and had reasonable grip. Would get a set of Michelin ATs for my Jeep (which also needs tires) but oh my those are expensive...
Click to expand...

Also, to stay on topic, BMW has ~150K miles and Heep is gonna turn 290K very soon. Just replaced the plugs and air filter in both and they're running well. Nothing like a good old straight six!
 
N8Nagel said:
Nothing like a good old straight six!
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Depends on who makes it. The straight 6 in my Chevy was a POS! Made in the early 80s and by the time it had 60K mi on it, it was burning a quart of oil to 600 mi.. My Honda Accord V6 on the other hand has 244K mi on it and is down half a quart between 5K mi oil changes.
 
91 Dodge Caravan V6 3.0, 231000 with normal maintenance... timing belt, water pump, hoses changed out every so often, trans drain and fill, new fuel pump just because. 1990 Chevy Corsica, 2.2 four, 301512 with normal maintenance... water pump, hoses changed out every so often, auto trans drain and fill, belt tensioner... has a 180 degree thermostat,(factory is 212) and after market fan control set just above thermostat, has a trans cooler I installed years ago, a valve job a couple years ago, replaced the fuel pump just because... runs fine. 2004 Honda Accord just breaking in with 31000, four cylinder, a garage queen.
 
Well just shy of 400k, and it's just about to go. 2001 4.7 Dakota. The water pump is going, both diffs are shot, the O2 sensors went and the catalytic converter is gone. It still starts and moves, but gas mileage is terrible, and with the small water leak I have to keep an eye on the coolant levels daily. The engine still runs like a top, but everything else is pretty much shot.

It's been a great vehicle, and I'm struggling to find a good replacement. But it's just about ready to be put out to pasture.

I really wish they still made basic bare bone trucks. I'd be all over a new $20,000 truck without any fancy computer equipment and roll up windows. It's a glaring hole in the market for basic equipment work trucks.
 
Man, I jinxed myself by posting here. Ordered new tires (not cheap 'uns, either, Michelin Pilot Sport AS4) for my BMW on Monday, then drove it Tuesday for the first time in ~3 weeks. Battery is finally going as the clock reset itself when I started it, and the A/C is blowing imperceptibly cooler than ambient air. When I took it over 65 MPH on the Beltway I got a half CEL. Of course my Hazard Fraught scanner won't tell me what the code is. !@#$%@#!!!!!!

I just gave it new struts, all associated mounts, hardware, and bump stops, air and cabin filters and spark plugs within the past few months. Machines have no gratitude!
 
G'day, I have three Chevy Express vans that each have over 500K miles on them.
2008 Express 2500 has weak oil pressure but still goes down the road when needed.
2009 Express 3500 lifter failed and turned in the block. Needs the lifter bore sleeved and new lifter
2010 Express 3500 6L90E failed at 525K. Nothing ever done to it

The truck I drive to work is a 2007 Silverado with 275K and we put in a new fuel pump this winter.

My 1959 Corvette has 3 miles on the original odometer. Cluster was pulled when it went racing in 1959. I hope to put it on the road this year, roll cage and all.
 
My 98 Ranger with a 3.0 V6 has 147k on it but stopped running last fall. Cranks over but wont fire. I tried some starting fluid to rule out any possible issue with fuel but it still wouldn't fire. Then replaced the crank sensor, still no joy. Now my wife wants me to haul it to the dump, but I hate getting rid of it. Like shooting a loyal old dog because he is sick.. :(
 
Alobar said:
My 98 Ranger with a 3.0 V6 has 147k on it but stopped running last fall. Cranks over but wont fire. I tried some starting fluid to rule out any possible issue with fuel but it still wouldn't fire. Then replaced the crank sensor, still no joy. Now my wife wants me to haul it to the dump, but I hate getting rid of it. Like shooting a loyal old dog because he is sick.. :(
Click to expand...

If it's in good shape and not a rust bucket might be worth a trusted shop give it a diagnosis. Could be a small electrical part that is cheap to fix.
 
JoeShimandle said:
If it's in good shape and not a rust bucket might be worth a trusted shop give it a diagnosis. Could be a small electrical part that is cheap to fix.
Click to expand...

NH-MAN said:
Agree it shouldn't be to hard for a competent mechanic to diagnose you have a vehicle that regularly gets 200K and more on them with little in need from major parts.
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I used to be somewhat of a backyard mech, with older rigs before that sort of thing became too difficult. I'm pretty sure it is a relatively small problem but living out here in nowhere land, the mechanic shops are few and I don't fully trust any of them. I wouldn't say this pickup is a rust bucket, but it has had a hard life and is now my beater work truck. Probably could get $500 if it could be driven away. I would like to have the ability to plug in a laptop and see what that might reveal but I probably wouldn't know what I was looking at. There is always youtube I suppose, and that was where I started by changing out the crank sensor..
 
Alobar said:
I used to be somewhat of a backyard mech, with older rigs before that sort of thing became too difficult. I'm pretty sure it is a relatively small problem but living out here in nowhere land, the mechanic shops are few and I don't fully trust any of them. I wouldn't say this pickup is a rust bucket, but it has had a hard life and is now my beater work truck. Probably could get $500 if it could be driven away. I would like to have the ability to plug in a laptop and see what that might reveal but I probably wouldn't know what I was looking at. There is always youtube I suppose, and that was where I started by changing out the crank sensor..
Click to expand...

Most problems are common amongst the same vehicle

I recommend the https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php Nice people there and a ton of knowledge to help you track it down.
 
Last edited:
Alobar said:
My 98 Ranger with a 3.0 V6 has 147k on it but stopped running last fall. Cranks over but wont fire. I tried some starting fluid to rule out any possible issue with fuel but it still wouldn't fire. Then replaced the crank sensor, still no joy. Now my wife wants me to haul it to the dump, but I hate getting rid of it. Like shooting a loyal old dog because he is sick.. :(
Click to expand...

Check all your ground connections and ignition coil.

My truck would not start in wet weather for the longest time, finally saw that the heavy rubber sealing gasket at the top of the firewall was missing, letting all kinds of water get the distributor wet.

When I replaced the gasket, the problem stopped.
 
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