screenersam
aka Blind Sugar McGee
any of your wheels make it to 100k miles? even 200k?
2006 Ford Ranger. bought used. just passed 200k this week.
2006 Ford Ranger. bought used. just passed 200k this week.
100,000 even 200,000 mile vehicle club
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JesusChrysler
...drives a Dodge ; )
09 Challenger.
147,000
My daily girl.
Baby 5.7 going strong.
Matt
147,000
My daily girl.
Baby 5.7 going strong.
Matt
Music2Myear
Addicted Member
99 vw passat 260,000 k 2.8 v6 30 valve...
2006 Sonata V6 my commuter car purchased new 135k runs great
dr*audio
Fish fingers and custard!
1998 Toyota RAV4, 150K. Would have made it to 200K but the front subframe under the engine was rusting out. Could have had it fixed for around $1500, but it had the original clutch, original starter motor, original alternator, original master cylinder, original manual transmission, original radiator, original water pump. We just knew that stuff was going to wear out sometime so we bought a new car. I loved that RAV4!
Everything I have owned has made to 100k, even my HD will be there this summer. Most have made it well past 200k before something else catches my interest and I past it along. Quite a few Volvo’s above 250k (just getting broken in) sold one to one of my sailors about 15yrs ago with 350k, we keep in touch, last time I talked to him (couple months back) it had just passed 600k. 1996 6.5l Suburban with 300k my daughter still uses.
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halkaloogie
The Jerk
Somewhere around 360,000 on my 2001 Dodge Dakota 4.7L. Motor and trans are still going strong, but the rest of it is starting to turn to dust. I need to do the rear differential and the parking brake just stopped working, but it still gets me where i need to go and has never left me stranded.
Had an 04 Jetta TDI with 236k when someone rear ended me about 5 yrs ago. I would probably still be driving it.
infullview
Super Member
2007 Honda Accord V6, 237000 mi..
old blue...my 1990 ford truck....got cut up for parts by me at over 250K - front frame, my first 2010 tdi wagon was killed a week after i paid it off at over 250K. all the rest were hundred somethings cept for 2 - 1990 escort gt, traded at 56K on a corsica....love racing that car at limerock - and the 2016 rav4, traded at 32k for hildy last year. by my own logbook I am pushing 3M miles on CARS, this does not include my truck driving days.
whoaru99
Epic Member
94 Chev K1500 ext cab 4wd. 200-something, most of the miles pulling a 16ft enclosed trailer. For quite a while now typ less than 1k miles per year. Just don't have that much truck stuff to do.
Experimental extended drains on synthetic oil 20-25k. Engine and driveline run like a champ. Can't say as much for the body. Got the cancer pretty bad. That said, I've seen lots of newer Chevs with as much or more.
Rain, sun, cold, hot, sitting long periods of not driving/starting. Always starts. Always.
Experimental extended drains on synthetic oil 20-25k. Engine and driveline run like a champ. Can't say as much for the body. Got the cancer pretty bad. That said, I've seen lots of newer Chevs with as much or more.
Rain, sun, cold, hot, sitting long periods of not driving/starting. Always starts. Always.
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Mark IV, baybee! I had a 2000 Jetta.
beat_truck
Addicted Member
I always drive old beaters that usually have at least 100k or even 200k when I buy them. In this area, with the high deer population and the ridiculous amount of salt and calcium chloride that the state dumps on the road in the winter, I refuse to spend a lot on a nice vehicle that I would end up getting attached to.
My current beaters are:
2005 Dodge Grand Caravan C/V (cargo van w/ no options except air)
It has 177k and is still mechanically very good. Cold A/C, too. It has some rust starting in the rockers, rear dog legs, and the bottoms of the doors. If I decide to hang on to it for a while, I'm going to weld on new rockers and dog legs and treat the doors as best I can. It is still worth fixing as the undercarriage is still in great shape.
2004 Chevy Silverado regular cab 8ft bed 4.3 v6 auto 2wd
I just bought it at the end of last year, and really have barely driven it. It has 240k and is in great mechanical shape, besides needing a tune up and having a very slow battery drain that needs attention. It even has cold A/C, too. It has had a Jasper reman transmission put in at some point. It has the usual Chebby rust in the rocker panels that has been patched (although somewhat poorly) and over the rear wheels behind the fender flares. The underneath is VERY clean, though.
The highest mileage vehicles I've had:
1997 Ford Aspire
It had 282k when I bought it for $150. It ran like a top, used basically no oil, and shifted great. The body was pretty rusty, though. I made the mistake of paying for and taking possession of the car without getting the title at the same time, and the previous owner kept avoiding me and giving the run around when I'd see him.
So, I bought another cheap Aspire with a good body, low miles, and a bad transmission and combined the two cars. The parts car had 286k when I dismantled it. It even had the factory clutch in it.
1990 Volvo 240 DL wagon
The odometer didn't work when I bought it, and was stuck at 225k. I suspect it had a lot more miles than that on it. I fixed the badly leaking cam seal it had when I bought it, replaced the oil soaked timing belt, and tuned it up. It ran OK and shifted good, but the clutch was getting weak. Then the steering rack started going bad. The steering would stick/not return to center when making a turn. The check engine light came on, and I couldn't figure out why. The clutch got weaker. The rear part of exhaust fell off. The rear calipers seemed like they were hung up/not engaging. It had various electrical quirks, too. I liked the car, but really didn't feel like fixing everything that was wrong with it, so I unloaded it for $100 MORE than I paid for it.
My current beaters are:
2005 Dodge Grand Caravan C/V (cargo van w/ no options except air)
It has 177k and is still mechanically very good. Cold A/C, too. It has some rust starting in the rockers, rear dog legs, and the bottoms of the doors. If I decide to hang on to it for a while, I'm going to weld on new rockers and dog legs and treat the doors as best I can. It is still worth fixing as the undercarriage is still in great shape.
2004 Chevy Silverado regular cab 8ft bed 4.3 v6 auto 2wd
I just bought it at the end of last year, and really have barely driven it. It has 240k and is in great mechanical shape, besides needing a tune up and having a very slow battery drain that needs attention. It even has cold A/C, too. It has had a Jasper reman transmission put in at some point. It has the usual Chebby rust in the rocker panels that has been patched (although somewhat poorly) and over the rear wheels behind the fender flares. The underneath is VERY clean, though.
The highest mileage vehicles I've had:
1997 Ford Aspire
It had 282k when I bought it for $150. It ran like a top, used basically no oil, and shifted great. The body was pretty rusty, though. I made the mistake of paying for and taking possession of the car without getting the title at the same time, and the previous owner kept avoiding me and giving the run around when I'd see him.
So, I bought another cheap Aspire with a good body, low miles, and a bad transmission and combined the two cars. The parts car had 286k when I dismantled it. It even had the factory clutch in it.1990 Volvo 240 DL wagon
The odometer didn't work when I bought it, and was stuck at 225k. I suspect it had a lot more miles than that on it. I fixed the badly leaking cam seal it had when I bought it, replaced the oil soaked timing belt, and tuned it up. It ran OK and shifted good, but the clutch was getting weak. Then the steering rack started going bad. The steering would stick/not return to center when making a turn.
The check engine light came on, and I couldn't figure out why. The clutch got weaker. The rear part of exhaust fell off. The rear calipers seemed like they were hung up/not engaging. It had various electrical quirks, too. I liked the car, but really didn't feel like fixing everything that was wrong with it, so I unloaded it for $100 MORE than I paid for it.
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beat_truck
Addicted Member
We also had a 2000 Jetta with the 2.0 and 5 speed. The engine, transmission, and body themselves were basically OK overall, but literally EVERYTHING else on that POS car went wrong.
An example: One day I went to pull the POS into the garage to fix something that failed the last time it was driven, and I couldn't even pull it in the garage because the coil pack suddenly failed and it refused to run.
It was perfectly fine less than 24 hours before that. I ended up having to fix both problems outside.
It was ALWAYS something with that car.Even though it sickened me to think about the small fortune spent on parts and all my labor working on it, I was so glad to see it go when I drove it to the scrap yard. I just wish I had been there to see it when they crushed it into a pancake.
The only car we had that was even worse, if that is somehow possible, was a Ford Tempo. That was many years ago, and I still get a little angry when I see one of those colossal turds on the road.
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