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1060 rebuild on deck

klamsoss said:
Good afternoon AKers!
I've got a 1060 on deck for a rebuild. It hasn't been powered up in a couple years and the glue on the boards has corroded most of the caps pretty well. Nothing has been touched in the power supply since it was manufactured, so it's long overdue for some attention. I've ordered a few parts, but I wanted to get a central thread going where I can AK-source info to guide my work and finish up my BOM for the rebuild. My plan is to replace anything that is out of spec, and make some targeted upgrades where they may significantly improve reliability and/or performance. Reliability is top priority.
I'm comfortable working in tubed components (Fisher X-100-B and FM-100-B, Eico ST70, and I have a tube signal generator and VTVM I've restored) but I have done literally nothing in the way of servicing solid state equipment beyond changing fuses. So, be gentle, and details are much appreciated.

To start with, I intend to replace every electrolytic, since so many are visibly degraded, and they're all past their intended design life, anyway. I've been reviewing threads on rebuilds (lots of them! a good model with which to jump into solid state!) and there seem to be two camps:
stick with stock values,
or,
JACK 'EM UP!!
I'm hoping that AKers who have actually rebuilt, or own a rebuilt 1060 can weigh in on the merits of one or the other route. I'm guessing that I'll end up in a middle ground where I'll increase capacitance for some positions, and leave it stock for others but I'm open to all options. Please note, however, that this isn't a cost-no-object restoration. I'm willing to spend a bit, but I burn most of my bread on my bike collection and my tube stuff.

I'm also wondering about replacing a lot of these smaller value electrolytics with film caps that should last until my great-grandkids are using this to blast The Clash in their underground geodesic living spheres and wondering if "London is burning" is a reference to the war with the machines. (Just kidding. They'll be using my Fisher and Eico amps because transistors won't live through the EMP that wipes out the machines).

diodes?
known problematic resistors or other parts?
recommended improvements to the circuits?

So, experienced 1060 owners and restoration experts, what say you?
Many thanks!
Click to expand...
One of the 2 Rebuilds for 1060:
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/marantz-1060-recap.568728/
 
Okay, preparing to open up the 1060 again, but honestly, it's sounding really damn good and I'm not sure I would bother to do it if not for my desire to be very thorough with my work so that I know these things in the future.

I will be adjusting the clipping trimmers, provided I get good scope signal, but I want to also address (if possible) the fairly substantial pop/thump/crack that occurs at turn on. I understand this is typical of the 1060 and other output coupled designs. I also read that a headphone adapter inserted in the jack will resolve the issue to a large extent because the headphone circuit essentially becomes a bleed circuit for the coupling caps. I also read that a speaker protection relay would completely resolve the issue, but I haven't run across a good thread that explains that in a way that makes sense to me. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Are there other solutions?
 
If that unit has main/remote speaker switches, couldn’t you use that to disconnect the speakers before you turn it off and connect after you turn it on? Kind of like a manual speaker protection. In all of my receivers, I automatically turn the volume to zero so it will be down when I turn the unit on. It’s just a habit that takes two seconds and just part of the routine. It could be the same with speaker switches.
 
This of it this way, the output coupling capacitors have to charge and discharge, whether this happens with the power switch or the speaker switches is irrelevant.
The 'thump' is caused by the output coupling capacitors, a speaker relay probably won't help. Installing the adapter to engage the internal attenuator will help tame the 'thump'.

I haven't tried it, but theory says connecting dummy loads to the remote speaker terminals and powering up and down with the Remote speakers selected and the Main speakers de-selected might work.
Once everything is stabilized you could select Main and de-select the Remote speaker switches. Reverse for power off, select Remote, deselect Main.

Tom
 
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