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2250B is not powering on at all

dankik said:
Capacitor C009 is shunted across the switch. It could be that this cap is shorted, which effectively bypasses the power switch.
But what is puzzling is that if that switch is shorted and you have 120V available after the switch, why don't you see it at the wire going into the F1 fuse?
Things that you can do to isolate the problem:
  1. Unsolder one side of C009 and see if the switch now works.
  2. Check fuse F001 again to make sure it is not open and, with power off, check continuity across the two wires that come from the fuse holder.
I can't help you too much more because you need to find a bad component that is preventing 120V from getting to the transformer.
The good news is that I don't think that your transformer is bad and once you get this wiring sorted out it should work.
Click to expand...
OK, thanks for your help. It is getting late here in New York State and I do not want to unsolder while I am tired. I will update you tomorrow.
 
A photo would be nice.
I would guess that it is soldered directly across the switch terminals?
Probably something like this.
1790615304592.png
While you have power off, please double check the resistance between the power switch leads with your DMM both in the OFF position and the ON position.
 
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dankik said:
A photo would be nice.
I would guess that it is soldered directly across the switch terminals?
Probably something like this.
View attachment 3846052
While you have power off, please double check the resistance between the power switch leads with your DMM both in the OFF position and the ON position.
Click to expand...
I took of the front plate to see if I could see the capacitor. I am sure that it is there but I will have to dismantle too much to get to it. Is there something else I could do instead?
 
I think you just need to take off the bottom cover and the switch will be under the foot mount and headphone jack. You should be able to unscrew the two switch mounting screws and remove the whole switch. If the switch is bad, then you will need to remove it to replace it. The 120V that you measured before does not make any sense. Do you, or do you not have 120V getting past the power switch to the main fuse?

1790649474943.png
 
You were correct, getting the switch out wasn't bad at all. There was no capacitor across it. The switch did work, that is I only had continuity across the two terminals when the switch was in the on position. I checked the voltage from the wire connected to the mail fuse holder to the power switch and got 120vac regardless of the position of the switch.
 

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Jomo1960 said:
Is Pin 7 to Pin 1, the same as red to brown on the voltage selector? If yes, then the voltage from Pin 7 to pin 1 is 0 vac.
Click to expand...
Jomo1960 said:
10vac and 11vac from one end of the fuse holder to the brown wire
Click to expand...
Regardless of whether the power switch is working or not, there is still an inconsistency with what your previously said.
Please check the following:
  • You said the voltage from Pin 7 to Pin 1 is 0VAC
  • You said the voltage from the fuse holder to the BRN wire is 10VAC
  • You also said that you measured 120VAC on the switched outlet
  • We measured 0V on any of the transformer primary wires instead of 120VAC
  • I need you to first unplug from AC, then using your DMM set to measure Ohms
  • BLK lead on the AC plug tang that connects to the Power switch
  • Check for continuity?
  • Next, put the red lead on the input side of the fuse F001
  • Check for continuity?
  • Next, red lead on the output side of fuse F001
  • Check for continuity?
  • Next, red lead on the voltage selector Pin7
  • Check for continuity?
  • Next, red lead on the voltage selector Pin 5
  • Check for continuity?
  • Next, red lead on the voltage selector Pin 3
  • Check for continuity?
  • Next, red lead on the voltage selector Pin 1
  • Check for continuity?
  • Now, BLK lead on the other AC plug tang
  • Red lead on voltage selector plug Pin 1
  • Check for continuity?
1790694618855.png
 
By pin 7 do you mean the Brown wire? In my plug, see diagram, there are not 10 terminal so that is where I am confused about. I attached a picture of my plug. Thank you for your time.
 

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Whatever color wire goes from the fuse to the multipin connector.
I can't see any numbers because your photo is not focused and not enough light.
Here is what I assumed the wiring pin numbers and wire colors are when matched to the schematic.
It looks like Pin 7 and Pin 8 (white arrow) are connected to the black wire and jumpered together. Is this correct?
This wire should go to fuse F001.
It also looks like Pin 1 and Pin 2 are jumpered together with a BRN wire, correct?

So what I am asking is could you measure the ACV from Pin 1 (BRN wire) to Pin 7 (BLK wire).
It should be 120VAC because you said the power switch is always on and you previously measured 120VAC on the switched terminal.

1790709440662.png
 
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There are no numbers on the multi pin connector.
7 & 8 are jumped together and 7 is blacked. Yes, 1 & 2 are jumped together.
Voltage across 1 & 7 is about 7 vac
 
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