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2385 reconnect PS00 to P400 pin question

I removed the speakers and tested offset on positive left and right speaker connectors, 250 mlvlt each
 
I installed the new relay... now the receiver only clicks once relay does not work.
Here is the problem...Here is a chart of the different Omron relay models.
I think the one that I gave you the Part # for is highlighted in blue (MY2N 48).
The one that you ordered is the one highlighted in yellow (MY2N-D2 48).
Screenshot 2026-06-12 191215.jpg
Here is the one that you ordered and installed.
Screenshot 2026-06-12 191311.jpg
The difference is that the D2 has a built-in diode so the coil terminals now have a polarity. (See the little + and - on pins 13 & 14 of the -D2)
Comparing the two you see that the -D2 has a diode between terminals 13 (anode) and 14 (cathode). This is showing the BOTTOM view.
Keep that in mind when we look at the schematic.
Screenshot 2026-06-12 191849.jpg
Here is your relay board layout. LN01 is the relay. Note that the board has a diode in the circuit, QN02.
This is showing the TOP view.
Screenshot 2026-06-12 192048.jpg
If I reverse the relay and insert it onto the board, you get.
But note: THE DIODE BUILT-IN THE RELAY IS THE OPPOSITE POLARITY AS THE ONE ON THE BOARD AND BOTH ARE IN PARALLEL.
No voltage will activate the relay.
Screenshot 2026-06-12 192655.jpg
In
So, what's the solution?
  1. Check you order or packing slip to make sure that they sent you the correct part.
  2. Order the correct relay.
  3. Try and remove the relay cover and remove the internal diode, then seal the relay back up.
Here is what I put in Post #107 on page 6.
Screenshot 2026-06-12 193336.jpg
 
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Here is the problem...Here is a chart of the different Omron relay models.
I think the one that I gave you the Part # for is highlighted in blue (MY2N 48).
The one that you ordered is the one highlighted in yellow (MY2N-D2 48).
View attachment 3781750
Here is the one that you ordered and installed.
View attachment 3781751
The difference is that the D2 has a built-in diode so the coil terminals now have a polarity. (See the little + and - on pins 13 & 14 of the -D2)
Comparing the two you see that the -D2 has a diode between terminals 13 (anode) and 14 (cathode). This is showing the BOTTOM view.
Keep that in mind when we look at the schematic.
View attachment 3781765
Here is your relay board layout. LN01 is the relay. Note that the board has a diode in the circuit, QN02.
This is showing the TOP view.
View attachment 3781780
If I reverse the relay and insert it onto the board, you get.
But note: THE DIODE BUILT-IN THE RELAY IS THE OPPOSITE POLARITY AS THE ONE ON THE BOARD AND BOTH ARE IN PARALLEL.
No voltage will activate the relay.
View attachment 3781800
In
So, what's the solution?
  1. Check you order or packing slip to make sure that they sent you the correct part.
  2. Order the correct relay.
  3. Try and remove the relay cover and remove the internal diode, then seal the relay back up.
Here is what I put in Post #107 on page 6.
View attachment 3781808
I pasted and copied but you are right its not the same. I called in the order so im sure mouser will not work with me, i will try and remove diode, if not order correct model.
 
I cut out the diode but it still doesnt work, will order a new one,,i tested the other for continuity, both sides had the same resistance, i also pushed the plate to engage other contacts, got same resistance. Is there any other test to see if one side doesnt work, if its ok there is still something not connected to the right side. pete
 
both sides had the same resistance, i also pushed the plate to engage other contacts, got same resistance.
You need to be more specific when you tell me that "both sides had the same resistance". Tell me the terminals that you measured the resistance between.
When you apply 48VDC across terminals 13 and 14 you should hear the relay click and see the contacts move.
After removing the internal diode, the DC polarity does not matter. The diode that you removed was connected across terminals 13 and 14... correct?

There are two "switches" in the relay.
Look at the diagram below.
  • In the non-powered state, there should be no continuity (OL) between terminals 12 and 8, test with your Ohm meter (red arrows)
  • When you apply 48 VDC to pins 13 and 14 it causes the electromagnet to activate and move the switch
  • With 48V applied you should now measure 0 Ohms between terminals 12 and 8
  • Same with the other side... with no power you should measure no continuity (OL) on your Ohm meter from terminal 9 to 5 (blue arrows)
  • With power on, you should read 9 Ohm from terminal 9 to 5
  • There should be NO connection between the terminals on the left and terminals on the right
Screenshot 2026-06-13 082348.jpg
On the relay part no., at one time when I was looking for part availability I might have provided the other part no., but edited the post to the correct part. Maybe you ordered it before I got the right part?
 
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You need to be more specific when you tell me that "both sides had the same resistance". Tell me the terminals that you measured the resistance between.
When you apply 48VDC across terminals 13 and 14 you should hear the relay click and see the contacts move.
After removing the internal diode, the DC polarity does not matter. The diode that you removed was connected across terminals 13 and 14... correct?

There are two "switches" in the relay.
Look at the diagram below.
  • In the non-powered state, there should be no continuity (OL) between terminals 12 and 8, test with your Ohm meter (red arrows)
  • When you apply 48 VDC to pins 13 and 14 it causes the electromagnet to activate and move the switch
  • With 48V applied you should now measure 0 Ohms between terminals 12 and 8
  • Same with the other side... with no power you should measure no continuity (OL) on your Ohm meter from terminal 9 to 5 (blue arrows)
  • With power on, you should read 9 Ohm from terminal 9 to 5
  • There should be NO connection between the terminals on the left and terminals on the right
View attachment 3782046
On the relay part no., at one time when I was looking for part availability I might have provided the other part no., but edited the post to the correct part. Maybe you ordered it before I got the right part?
If i read the relay correctly, the diode was between 14 and 13 as in photo 2 diode was at the bottom
 

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Can't tell from the photo, but you cut off pins 1 and 4 correct?
If you apply 48V to pins 14 and 13 does the relay click?
 
You need to be more specific when you tell me that "both sides had the same resistance". Tell me the terminals that you measured the resistance between.
When you apply 48VDC across terminals 13 and 14 you should hear the relay click and see the contacts move.
After removing the internal diode, the DC polarity does not matter. The diode that you removed was connected across terminals 13 and 14... correct?

There are two "switches" in the relay.
Look at the diagram below.
  • In the non-powered state, there should be no continuity (OL) between terminals 12 and 8, test with your Ohm meter (red arrows)
  • When you apply 48 VDC to pins 13 and 14 it causes the electromagnet to activate and move the switch
  • With 48V applied you should now measure 0 Ohms between terminals 12 and 8
  • Same with the other side... with no power you should measure no continuity (OL) on your Ohm meter from terminal 9 to 5 (blue arrows)
  • With power on, you should read 9 Ohm from terminal 9 to 5
  • There should be NO connection between the terminals on the left and terminals on the right
View attachment 3782046
On the relay part no., at one time when I was looking for part availability I might have provided the other part no., but edited the post to the correct part. Maybe you ordered it before I got the right pa

Can't tell from the photo, but you cut off pins 1 and 4 correct?
If you apply 48V to pins 14 and 13 does the relay click?
Yes i cut off 1 and 4, I connected the old relay. power off no continuity at 12 and 8 or 9 and 5, power on 0 ohms 12 and 8 also 0 ohms at 9 and 5,, i do not hear a click when the new one is installed
 
Do you have a picture of the old relay top with the part no.?
With the new relay did any of the LED lights go on?
 
No, that's AC power... you need DC. You need a power supply or you can solder a couple of wire to the board and to the bottom of the relay terminals so you don't need to install the relay. Use your Ohm meter to test continuity.
 
where do i connect to the board to get 48 vdc?
 

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where do i connect to the board to get 48 vdc?
Red arrows, exactly where the leads would go if you installed the relay in-place. You might not get 48V there if there is a problem with one of your main amp boards.
Screenshot 2026-06-13 143601.jpg
Screenshot 2026-06-13 144655.jpg
 
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What are those two alligator clips that you have connected to JN04 and JN06
Not in use i was going to use them if the power came from any of the pins, i soldered wires as per diagram to get voltage, also connected to new relay and relay closes a few seconds after first click, not sure why it doesnt work when installed?
 
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