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4500x Network

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I have 2 top sections for my k-horns (K55/K400/SMAHL/DE-120 on one top section, and the 18x10/PRV2200/SMAHL/DE-120 on the other top section) that I periodically swap out.

With the help of Boxler I made a set of the 4500x networks and use them when I am using the K55/K400 and SMAHL/DE-120 combination. Sound wonderful. Better than the universal networks I made.
 
I have LSIs, with AAs and SMAHLs, as the main speakers in my garage system and have always found the mids to be just a bit "shouty". When I built a set of Lascala clones this year with LMAHLs, I decided to build a set of the 4500x for them. I played around with the autoformer settings, and while they sounded great, it seemed like the mids were a little too muted (?). I decided to switch the crossovers for the 2 systems and, weirdly enough, there was big improvement in both systems. The LSIs are perfect with the 4500x and the clones like the AAs. I think lots of things could account for this: the space, different type capacitors, K400 vs K401, etc but it really doesn't matter to me since both systems are sounding great.
 
I have LSIs, with AAs and SMAHLs, as the main speakers in my garage system and have always found the mids to be just a bit "shouty". When I built a set of Lascala clones this year with LMAHLs, I decided to build a set of the 4500x for them. I played around with the autoformer settings, and while they sounded great, it seemed like the mids were a little too muted (?). I decided to switch the crossovers for the 2 systems and, weirdly enough, there was big improvement in both systems. The LSIs are perfect with the 4500x and the clones like the AAs. I think lots of things could account for this: the space, different type capacitors, K400 vs K401, etc but it really doesn't matter to me since both systems are sounding great.
Interesting
 
Crossover building is not for the faint of heart. I purchased generic PCB’s to see how they might help. The one on the left will be a second order cross woofer to autoformer. If it works out I’ll populate the right pcb to handle the low pass to the Squawker and the high pass to the tweeter.

IMG_0419.jpeg
 
I soldered the LF PCB and ran a sweep. My XXX-400/D2200ph combo were already installed so I hooked up to it. The white plot with the dip around 400hz was my first test. I reversed the squawker polarity and it flattened out. For the hard of hearing this almost looks good enough for a two-way.

Will start populating the HF next. Gotta cut a big trace to get it to work.

PCB 4500x.jpg
 
Most people never show their work. Bravo. Admirable first try.

The edges of those red Jantzens are conductive. Make sure they aren’t touching anything.

Couldn’t help but notice you’re on the full out setting. I removed that setting from my build.
 
Most people never show their work. Bravo. Admirable first try.

The edges of those red Jantzens are conductive. Make sure they aren’t touching anything.

Couldn’t help but notice you’re on the full out setting. I removed that setting from my build.
Thank you. I'll take another look again at the edges of the caps...particularly that one next to the barrier strip.
I started with full out, but am currently on the -2 tap.
 
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