Acoustat Speaker ID Needed
- Thread starter mcdmgb
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frommerstop
Super Member
1+1s
Thanks for the ID information. Another question-how does one transport them? Can the base with the transformer be removed?
frommerstop
Super Member
Yes, the base/transformer assembly is attached to the panel with, iirc, 6 screws. Best to let the speakers sit with the mains (110v) unplugged overnight, the caps hold potentially lethal charges. Once the panel is detached there are 3 color coded wire groups that must be detached, they are held on with nuts & spade connectors so very simple. As you remove each connection, lightly touch it to each of the others, this will dissipate any residual charge in the panel, if there is any it will just make one little pop... just like touching a doorknob after walking across a rug.
The panels are light, and easy to handle, but unfortunately there’s no easy way to break them down any shorter, so transport & shipping are tricky.
The panels are light, and easy to handle, but unfortunately there’s no easy way to break them down any shorter, so transport & shipping are tricky.
Thanks.
Pretty much ditto everything frommerstop said as I'm a current owner. Especially the discharging procedure!
To split hairs, there are four allen screws along the top that separate the power supply from the lower section. The lower section is removed separately. Note that the signal attaches to the blue and black screw terminals. The high voltage bias pin goes in the red jack in the middle of the two. Note your unit will look somewhat different as mine has been modified by ex-Acoustat engineer Roy Esposito who continues to work with the brand.
The panels are pretty much bulletproof, but may use heat re-tensioning which can be done (carefully!) with a hair dryer. Another level of transparency can be realized by replacing the heavy weave grill "socks" with tightly stretched spandex. I had a seamstress make a replacement set for me.
To split hairs, there are four allen screws along the top that separate the power supply from the lower section. The lower section is removed separately. Note that the signal attaches to the blue and black screw terminals. The high voltage bias pin goes in the red jack in the middle of the two. Note your unit will look somewhat different as mine has been modified by ex-Acoustat engineer Roy Esposito who continues to work with the brand.
The panels are pretty much bulletproof, but may use heat re-tensioning which can be done (carefully!) with a hair dryer. Another level of transparency can be realized by replacing the heavy weave grill "socks" with tightly stretched spandex. I had a seamstress make a replacement set for me.
frommerstop
Super Member
Yeah, it’s been years since I looked at a 1+1, I’m a model 3 guy!
