Advent Legacy, paint or stain?
- Thread starter Husker
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ChristopherP
Active Member
Restore ‘em stock for best resale
Kit Carson
Active Member
Paint them black and watch the resale value go down the toilet. If its wood veneer they should have a wood oil applied to restore the speakers to their original condition.
hornbostel
Well-Known Member
Advent Legacy was the second pair of speakers I bought in high school with my own $$. Boston Acoustics A40 were the first. Properly restored the Legacy is a great performer. As for finishing the top and base plate are solid pecan, not walnut veneer. You can be pretty aggressive with sanding before staining if needed. I would not personally paint the wood.
RTally
Speaker addict
I have Advent Legacy II and had Baby III speakers. Both pairs use solid pecan for the top and kickplates as noted by hornbostel above. Pecan is very easy to work with. It sands well and takes oil well. I use natural (stain free) Danish Oil.
Add the semi-gloss painted top and kickplate to the black laminated sides and the black grills and you have a very big, black ugly box.
I would think all-black speakers would be more difficult to fit into a room, which means more difficult to sell. But in my area, Legacy speakers do not sell. I've had my completely restored Legacy II for sale for $120 down to $100 for a couple years with nary a nibble. I don't mind 'cuz they are in daily use in my office.
Add the semi-gloss painted top and kickplate to the black laminated sides and the black grills and you have a very big, black ugly box.
I would think all-black speakers would be more difficult to fit into a room, which means more difficult to sell. But in my area, Legacy speakers do not sell. I've had my completely restored Legacy II for sale for $120 down to $100 for a couple years with nary a nibble. I don't mind 'cuz they are in daily use in my office.
Kit Carson
Active Member
Loads of info on AK if you do a search re restoring speaker cabinet wood veneer. Buyers will much prefer anything in original condition over something that has been modified painted black. Danish Oil, proper grades of sandpaper are not expensive and do not require a lot of skill for excellent results if instructions are followed.
dr*audio
Fish fingers and custard!
A friend gave me a pair of Legacy speakers when one of my KLH 6 bench speakers blew the woofer. I had them refoamed and was amazed at how good they sounded. They make great bench speakers but I would have no problem using them for regular listening. I don't know why they don't sell for much, the sound is certainly equal to speakers costing far more.
Husker
New Member
After reading all the replies I will be staining with the Danish oil. The reason that I asked the question is that these speakers do not match up well. One has a darker grain and the other is much lighter in color. I'm ready to get them finished and get them hooked up again with the new caps I installed. Thanks for all sending me in the right direction!
I seem to remember not very well matched wood caps on the Legacys that have passed through here. You could do a little staining to match them up better before you finish them with oil.
If by glued solid you mean the early 6s that didn't have a conventional basket but had the magnet held by struts epoxied to the baffle, reading up would be helpful - it's not easy to get inside.
If by glued solid you mean the early 6s that didn't have a conventional basket but had the magnet held by struts epoxied to the baffle, reading up would be helpful - it's not easy to get inside.
ChrisPlatt
New Member
I just bought a nice pair of refoamed Advent Legacy II speakers. As RTally states Advents of this era tops and bottoms are pecan.
There's no major damage but after 30+ years of dusting, cleaning, vacuum bumps etc. the finish is showing its age.
What's the easiest way to refresh the finish without stripping it down to the bare wood?
TIA,
Chris in Rockaway Beach
There's no major damage but after 30+ years of dusting, cleaning, vacuum bumps etc. the finish is showing its age.
What's the easiest way to refresh the finish without stripping it down to the bare wood?
TIA,
Chris in Rockaway Beach
RTally
Speaker addict
Depends on how you want them to look when you are done.
If you have dark rings, I suggest using Bartender's Friend to remove the dark rings. If there are scratches and other marks that you want to get rid of, I suggest sanding with about 120 to 150 grit paper. Use a sanding block.
If the surface is good enough for you, I would first clean the wood. Wiping mineral spirits with a rag will remove dirt and some of the oil finish. I use paper towels. Clean until the towel comes away dirt-free. Wiping with mineral spirits will wet the wood and give you an idea of how the wood will look after the finish is applied.
When the wood is clean, I would wipe on plain (no tint) Danish Oil or Minwax Wipe-On Poly Finish. A couple coats and they are good to go. I like the blond look of pecan, so I prefer to use non-tinted finishes.
ChrisPlatt
New Member
Thanks. No doubt that is the ideal way to refinish these.
However I'm not ready to go the full strip and refinish route.
As mentioned they're not too bad, so it is probably not necessary.
Is there some simpler less labor and material intensive approach to try first?
I should also mention I'm in an apartment.
Chris
However I'm not ready to go the full strip and refinish route.
As mentioned they're not too bad, so it is probably not necessary.
Is there some simpler less labor and material intensive approach to try first?
I should also mention I'm in an apartment.
Chris
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ChrisPlatt
New Member
I bought some #0000 steel wool and Watco natural Danish oil.
I will use denatured alcohol which I already have, saving $10.00
Will report my results when I have time to complete my project.
Chris
I will use denatured alcohol which I already have, saving $10.00
Will report my results when I have time to complete my project.
Chris
Agree -- their oughta be a law!
