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AK Design Collaborative - Insignia-Class Economy Speakers (a.k.a Indignia)

Mark Walters said:
I just noticed that the "Karma Indignia" are on the front page of the Parts Express catalog I just received in the mail. :thmbsp:
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Yep, really cool to get something in the mail with a piece from a forum you are a member of. Better yet, I didn't even know of such a thread, and I may very well build a pair:yes:. Going to be quite a bit of reading though...
 
Surprised me as well. After simulating the design with WinISD I want to look at the entire thread (perhaps a year of reading :sigh:) though. WinISD shows a bump in the bass response at about 75 Hz that I don't like. Not sure if that really happens or not so I will do the research in an attempt to find out.

Shelly_D
 
Note to folks new to this thread...the design is pretty much done by about page 20. After that there might be a little more documentation but mostly it is member projects after that. So if you're reading up to get into the design, you could stop at about 25 and skip to the end with no ill effects. However, seeing all the different versions built by AKers is half the fun.
 
shelly_d, you are correct, there is a bump in the response around 70-75hz. I'm sure in addition to going quite low for it's size, that is aiding in the impression of a lot of low bass energy. Running them sealed, with the exception of some loss of power handling is a viable option and I can confirm it sounds very good sealed. It also simplifies the build and baffle work.
 
RayW said:
Note to folks new to this thread...the design is pretty much done by about page 20. After that there might be a little more documentation but mostly it is member projects after that. So if you're reading up to get into the design, you could stop at about 25 and skip to the end with no ill effects. However, seeing all the different versions built by AKers is half the fun.
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Thanks for the info. I got the PE catalog yesterday and the speakers looks like a fun little project. Then I see this 98 page thread and my eyes started to glaze over!
 
Just received my bag of parts from PE. For some reason, maybe old history, I expected to find a dot or "+" sign or some other indicator on the capacitors to indicate polarity, in case it needed to be oriented a certain way for purposes of the circuit. Is my ancient history all wet and can these capacitors (C1, C2, C3) be installed without regard to polarity or orientation?

Al

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Getting old sucks.
 
I got the latest copy of PE and saw the community based Karma Indignia Speaker. I quickly ordered all of the parts and only have two questions for you guys......

1. I bought the pre-frabicated .38 curved cabinets - What is the best way to build the crossover and mount it in the cabinet so it does no hinder performance? I was going to use a small piece of diy circuit board that I have left over from a prior project- but how to mount it?

2. I did not buy any of the baffle material as I was not sure I needed it..... Do I and how do I know how much?
 
1.) There are crossover boards available, but if you read through the thread, people used plywood, perf board, chopped up clipboards, etc. All of them are viable and don't have any serious drawback.

2.) the baffles come wiht the cabinets and do not have any holes cut. You'll have to cut them yourself.
 
dnewma04 said:
shelly_d, you are correct, there is a bump in the response around 70-75hz. I'm sure in addition to going quite low for it's size, that is aiding in the impression of a lot of low bass energy. Running them sealed, with the exception of some loss of power handling is a viable option and I can confirm it sounds very good sealed. It also simplifies the build and baffle work.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the confirmation. I'm glad to know I'm not going nuts and imagining things. According to WinISD the sealed version tames the bump down to less then 1 dB (certainly reasonable response) and raises the overall Q to 0.92. The question I have there is how are the transients at that point? (I haven't built to that spec before).

Thanks

Shelly_D
 
Bassmantweed said:
I1. I bought the pre-frabicated .38 curved cabinets - What is the best way to build the crossover and mount it in the cabinet so it does no hinder performance? I was going to use a small piece of diy circuit board that I have left over from a prior project- but how to mount it?
Click to expand...

As there were only twisted wire connections on the back side of my board (masonite from a school slate, equivalent to clipboard stuff, holes drilled by me, and not that different from your perf board) I could flat mount it to the inside of the cabinet with small wood or sheet metal screws that don't pierce the cabinet side. I used the back, you will probably have to mount it on the bottom plate due to the curved sides and smaller back, maybe. So you will need different wire lengths to go to the input connectors and the speakers.
 

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webbb said:
As there were only twisted wire connections on the back side of my board (masonite from a school slate, equivalent to clipboard stuff, holes drilled by me, and not that different from your perf board) I could flat mount it to the inside of the cabinet with small wood or sheet metal screws that don't pierce the cabinet side. I used the back, you will probably have to mount it on the bottom plate due to the curved sides and smaller back, maybe. So you will need different wire lengths to go to the input connectors and the speakers.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip.
 
Ok so Now I am overwhelmed........

I bought al of the parts and have started to put these speakers together...... i have a few questions but will ask them As I go first question is, if i lok at this schematic haw do i know which is the positive and which is the negative wire/ input and connection to the speaker????

attachment.php
 
OK so Now I am overwhelmed........

I bought all of the parts and have started to put these speakers together...... i have a few questions but will ask them As I go first question is, if i look at this schematic how do i know which is the positive and which is the negative wire/ input and connection to the speaker????

attachment.php
 
Positive/Negative is in reference to the speakers, generally. Because, prectically everyone will get them mixed up between the preamp and the speakers somewhere.

But, for better information, red is positive, black is negative, that is, the plastic for the connectors on the amp, and speakers. I've never thought about that before as that makes no sense.


And then, just to make sure, I checked the back of two sets of speakers and then googled 'speakers red and black'. I'm getting old.
 
Thanks for the information i am pretty clear on that but from a schematic perspective there is no indication of which wire is the positive and which is the negative?
 
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