• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

AK Design Collaborative - Insignia-Class Economy Speakers (a.k.a Indignia)

Bassmantweed said:
Ok so Now I am overwhelmed........

I bought al of the parts and have started to put these speakers together...... i have a few questions but will ask them As I go first question is, if i lok at this schematic haw do i know which is the positive and which is the negative wire/ input and connection to the speaker????

attachment.php
Click to expand...

Great minds think alike, Bassmantweed! http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=1995967&postcount=369

I had only a vague notion of what I was doing when I built mine. We're here for any questions you have (or anyone else).
 
Thanks guys for all of the help - I have my crossovers wired. Now I have to mount them. Next step is milling the baffles - which leads to my next question:

This diagram has no relative starting point. Does it matter as long as the drivers and baffle is the correct distance from one another? I know the woofer is centered but how far up from the bottom edge is the center of the speaker?

attachment.php
 
All dimensions are referenced to the center of the baffle (7"). Start from there and go down 2.5" for the woofer, up 3.5" and over .5" for the tweeter, etc.

If you're not sure about how to do the machining, there's a thread for that referenced in the first post of this one.
 
RayW said:
All dimensions are referenced to the center of the baffle (7"). Start from there and go down 2.5" for the woofer, up 3.5" and over .5" for the tweeter, etc.

If you're not sure about how to do the machining, there's a thread for that referenced in the first post of this one.
Click to expand...

got it thanks!
 
If you use the PE curved sided cabs you'll have to either do a snorkel port or do some trimming on the internal bracing.
 
RayW said:
If you use the PE curved sided cabs you'll have to either do a snorkel port or do some trimming on the internal bracing.
Click to expand...

Crap - I knew this was turning out to be too easy....... I did not see any info on porting on the first post where can I found out information about how large - long and how to install this......

I have to place another PE order tomorrow is there something else I need to order?
 
Port is 1.5" x 8". I don't think PE has one that works. Most folks used PVC.

You can build them sealed and see how that works out for you. Z says that the bass is still pretty good if you back them up against a wall. If you want more grunt then pull the baffles and put the ports in.
 
Bassmantweed said:
Crap - I knew this was turning out to be too easy....... I did not see any info on porting on the first post where can I found out information about how large - long and how to install this......

I have to place another PE order tomorrow is there something else I need to order?
Click to expand...

I think that you can go to Lowes and get the parts that you need for the port tube .
 
RayW said:
Port is 1.5" x 8". I don't think PE has one that works. Most folks used PVC.

You can build them sealed and see how that works out for you. Z says that the bass is still pretty good if you back them up against a wall. If you want more grunt then pull the baffles and put the ports in.
Click to expand...

So it does not matter what shape the port is just as long as it is 1.5 x 8.....

is the 1.5 Inner diameter or outer diameter

P.S. - ray thanks for all of your help here.
 
Edit: Others beat me to a response but here is more info:

The port is both the hole in the baffle and a tube (made of PVC plumbing tubing) of specific length inside the speaker that connects to the hole. The tube's length is important in achieving the parameters of the design.

While a straight tube would normally be used (a single piece of PVC with no other fittings), the bends provided by the angled fittings were necessary to "bend the tube" around internal cabinet bracing and/or avoid cabinet walls due to diminishing cabinet space at the rear of curved cabinets.

Seems to me the length specified at several points in the lengthy thread is approximately 8" but slightly different port lengths are mentioned. The length you use will result in corresponding changes in speaker performance but Ray can explain that much better than me.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, what they said. It's 1.5" ID and you can use whatever shape you want but you need to keep the ID at 1.5". So if you're putting bends in it you need to use large radius ones because the smaller ones just use a "corner" inside the elbow to turn the flow. That will change the ID and will, in effect, become an acoustic filter.
 
Does anyone know if these ribbon tweeters would work well in these speakers? I was thinking of using the same crossover that's in the kit. Thanks.
 
RayW said:
If you use the PE curved sided cabs you'll have to either do a snorkel port or do some trimming on the internal bracing.
Click to expand...

Even with the snorkle, you'll need to take a little barrel sander and dish it on the inside just a mite. If you look back in the thread where I'm building mine, I ran into that problem and believe I even took some pics.

Russellc
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom