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AK Design Collaborative - Insignia-Class Economy Speakers (a.k.a Indignia)

AngelArs said:
Does anyone know if these ribbon tweeters would work well in these speakers? I was thinking of using the same crossover that's in the kit. Thanks.
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That has almost nothing in common with the one used in the project. You'd need to do at least the upper portion of the crossover to integrate it. Keep in mind that, as designed, the Indignia sensitivity is about 85dB@1W1m while the AC ribbon is 96dB. You'd be throwing away over 20dB in sensitivity.

Russellc said:
That's what most did. I did too, made a nice curvey snorkle.

Russellc
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Is that a curvey snorkel in your speaker or are you just happy to see me?:naughty:
 
Ok placing my order with parts express for a few additional items Do i need to stuff the cabinet with any material? seems like I saw a pic in one of the threads that had polyfill inside the cabinet?
 
For a ported enclosure you generally want to line the walls with something. You don't want to stuff it full of polyfill or anything like that. You can get by doing 1 of each pair of parallel walls. I think (it's been a while since I made them) that mine have plain poly quilt batting from Walmart and it works ok. You can use carpet padding, rock wool (very good), or construction insulation. Look at Z's pic of the snorkel and you'll see his.
 
RayW said:
For a ported enclosure you generally want to line the walls with something. You don't want to stuff it full of polyfill or anything like that. You can get by doing 1 of each pair of parallel walls. I think (it's been a while since I made them) that mine have plain poly quilt batting from Walmart and it works ok. You can use carpet padding, rock wool (very good), or construction insulation. Look at Z's pic of the snorkel and you'll see his.
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Ray - Thanks again...... this is what Parts Express recommended

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-317
 
Well, over the weekend I wired both crossover boards, point-to-point wiring on plywood, with rubber bumpers on the underside to lift the board up from the cabinet.

More questions:

1) I'm going to buy a 1-lb bag of "Acousta Stuf" damping material from PE, catalog write-up says to use about a half-pound per cubic foot of cabinet interior. Cabinets are .38 cu-ft, so what affect will adding about 1/3-lb per cabinet do to the output?

2) I have a jig-saw to cut the speaker openings but I don't have a router that can cut the surrounding recess. Any problem with surface mounting the speakers?

Note: I did a trial cut on scrap lumber to test the hole size for the PVC port tubes. A 1-7/8" forstner bit yields a hole that is about a 1/32"-to-1/64" shy of the needed diameter of the PVC. I think sanding down the outside of the PVC pipe should get a perfect fit.

I'm getting antsy now -- can't wait to order the cabinets (my wish list at PE is starting to get crowded).

Al
 
Yeah, what he said. Unless you're going to spray the walls with an adhesive like 3M 77 and stick some Acousta-stuff to the walls, it's not really the right stuff. The ones Pat linked are much better for a ported box like ours.
 
I agree with both Ray and Dave on stuffing the cabinet. I've seen a lot of people, including professionals, absolutely kill the sound of their speakers with too much stuffing. I've built a couple of BR speakers and didn't use any stuffing at all. FWIW: They took prizes at several speaker contests.

The port situation is difficult without a router. I've got one, so here's what I do. Get the tubing cut the right length, minus the thickness of the cabinet. Epoxy it in place over a predrilled one inch hole. After letting it cure for a couple of days, use a trim bit with a ball bearing follower to route it to the exact dimension of the inside diameter of the tube.

Best Regards,
TerryO
 
The 1.875" forstner gave me similar results. I think that PVC seems to vary in OD because some of it slid in with a very tight fit, others needed at least another 1/32.
 
On the group baffle milling that I did I used a combination of what Dave and Terry said. Used the 1.875" Forstner to go 1/2 way through the baffle and got the PVC to fit (required a little sanding). Then drilled the center hole out big enough to fit a flush trim router bit. With the PVC in place use the flush trim bit to match the hole through the rest of the baffle to the PVC ID.
 
Very cool guys.

Audio_Karma.jpg
 
Hi,
sorry if this has been posted in the thread before but I have dug through it and not found what I am looking for.

Can anyone post a frequency response of the low end(bass-midbass) of the finished speaker (with stuffing and port and all) ? Even if its just an ungated farfield with all the ambient cr@p included. A CSD of that region would be great too.

Thanks!
 
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