• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

AK Design Collaborative - Insubnia

lilmike said:
Got a sim or two that have some potential, but the impulse is not clean enough yet and I still have to work on the damping a bit. Definitely need to spend some more time polishing the models up, then give it a quick sanity check to make sure it can be built. Unfortunately, I really have not had a lot of time to work on it, I hope to have a few spare minutes today or tomorrow. Size is just a touch bigger when compared to yours, but the efficiency is a bit higher and it will reach 25 Hz without sitting in a corner. I think that 3/8 internal dividers would be OK for low levels, but since I'm not planning on any bracing, I'll probably suggest 1/2 birch ply or MDF.
Click to expand...

I figured you'd get more, tapped horns are pretty cool that way...more options are good...

1/2" material non-trivially increases the volume of the cab with all of my folds, and I was thinking that this sub will not see huge SPLs anyway, so no need for 1/2"....also, MDF is very consistent in thickness, and is easy to put into sketchup, unlike ply, which can vary more, but usually is around 12mm for so called 1/2" stuff....

JSS
 
And now it is time to throw a little wrench in the gears....

I've been looking at the Exodus Shiva-X2's in a tapped horn for another project, and I came across the Exodus Anarchy (which is the little, itty bitty brother of the Shiva, Tempest, and Maelstrom). It is also a 6.5, and looks to be an exceptional performer in a tapped horn sub. Just like the big brothers, it also has an XBL^2 motor.

It is currently a bit less expensive than the Tang Band, has the same excursion limits, and a slightly higher power handling limit. It is also 8 ohms, so a pair wired in parallel would present a 4 ohm load to a typical plate amp.

Stay tuned...I really am working on this.
 
Nice!! Let us know what you find out...I messed with it some, and the TB works better for a conical OD FLH than the Anarchy does....

Driver should be here next week...then it's build time...should be able to do it with 1/2 to 3/4 of a sheet of MDF...

JSS
 
Last edited:
You guys are doing a great job, I am looking forward to something I can build.

The Indignias project produced such an outstanding result.

Cabinets and wood I can do. All the developing......well, I can watch.

This is GREAT.
 
I have to call in an order on Monday, but since DIYCable is close to me, I should have the drivers in a few days. Pulling out a pair of 1139s this afternoon for break-in too.

Off to the shop for a bit of quality time with my WT2 and some 10s. :D
 
Last edited:
jimbofish said:
As I see this design, the width of the passageway is tapered, that is, it gets increasingly wider as it spirals out from the center. That is evidenced by the fact that the central 'box' is twisted in relation to the outer case. In order to do this, each of those right angle joints have to be slightly greater than 90deg, except for the first joints on the central box and the outer case.
If only the length of each panel is increased, the sides of the spiral would all be parallel to the outer case. Each section would be wider than the last, but there wouldn't be a gradual taper as shown in the diagram. As I understand the theory, that is the purpose of the design.
Granted, the angle would only be a degree or three, and caulk might be sufficient, but considering that this will be used for bass, rigidity should be important, which comes with solid joinery.
Maybe I'm just seeing this wrong... :scratch2:
Click to expand...

What I said is confusing, just pointing out that the angles will fall into place with these measurements. I'll copy the diagram and post with what I mean.

russellc
 
Apparently 3/8" MDF has gone the way of the dodo in West TX.....HD, Lowe's, nor Sutherlands stocks 3/8" MDF.....and all of them did just one year ago....

Looks like a re-fold w/ 1/2" MDF may be in order...

JSS
 
And done...

It's almost scary how quickly I can do this now...

dims increased to 20.75"x20.75"x10.25".....but response is nearly identical. Looks like a 1/2" MDF purchase is now in order...

And, since I had to increase the size of the W6 loaded Insubnia for 1/2" MDF, I looked at the W8 for a slightly bigger horn, but still only 24"x24"x12".

Here they are both simmed corner loaded, 2V into each (W8 Insubnia in grey):

Insubnia%20W6%20vs%20W8.png.jpg


Now I only wish I had real measurements for the W8 instead of using the fatory specs....maybe I'll have to order one...


JSS
 
Last edited:
Woohoo - got my tracking number today, my Anarchys (and their big brother...) will be in hand tomorrow!

Now I just have to get the fold sorted out...
 
maxmercy said:
And done...

It's almost scary how quickly I can do this now...

JSS
Click to expand...

....TWO HOURS?!?!

I bow to your Sketchup kung-fu sir.

I spent 4 hours last night on three different fold attempts, and guess what...

Zero, Zip, Nada.

I am getting closer, though the shape is changing a bit. It's not going to have a square side, more like 18X26.
 
Ha, that was with eating dinner, watching some TV, and taking a shower too...

I can do a prelim fold in about 5-10 mins......FLHs are easy that way.

THs are a LOT worse, having the ends meet up at the exact same point is tough. Have you seen this (attached)? It may really help...it's how I began using Sketchup....

JSS
 

Attachments

Thanks. That helps - I had seen it in the past, but did not remember it.

Got the drivers today. Wow. These are STOUT. The Anarchy has one massive motor, and the Shiva.....well, it just makes the Anarchy look tiny.

Other than that - not much progress on horns tonight, but I have two full corny kegs of homebrew in my keg fridge!:D
 
I just have one question:

If this design is supposed to be built in the same spirit of the Indignias, doesn't the cabinet design seem a little complex for most novice builders as compared to the Indignia project?
 
It does to me, but if there was a lot of interest, someone might be able to contact a cabinet maker and see what it would cost to have the flats CNCed.
 
marantzfan said:
I just have one question:

If this design is supposed to be built in the same spirit of the Indignias, doesn't the cabinet design seem a little complex for most novice builders as compared to the Indignia project?
Click to expand...

I may very well be wrong, but I dont think it will be that difficult. I've been thinking about it and I'm about to post my idea on assembly, was having a printer issue but seems to be resolved now. Should be able to post method tonight, and we'll see what everyone says......I built the Indignias, but bought the pre made cabs!:D We'll see if I'm full of it, or maybe not a bad idea?

Russellc
 
marantzfan said:
I just have one question:

If this design is supposed to be built in the same spirit of the Indignias, doesn't the cabinet design seem a little complex for most novice builders as compared to the Indignia project?
Click to expand...

I share your concerns.

Certainly a tapped horn is a complex cabinet. No doubt there. Design is the most challenging, especially taking a model and coming up with a set of dimensioned drawings. Once that part is done, the actual construction of a tapped horn is the easy part. I have tried to make sure that this is a design that can be built with a minimum of tools. The minimum toolkit a prospective builder would need includes a framing square, measuring tapes, a router or jigsaw, a circular saw, an electric drill/screwdriver, and some clamps.

I have not designed this to require crazy angle cuts or impossible levels of accuracy. If someone can lay out a pattern to 1/16" accuracy, cut square cuts on a straight line with 1/16" accuracy, and takes their time to maintain the level of accuracy throughout the build, this project is achievable. Clamped-down guide boards make this level of accuracy possible with a simple hand-held circular saw, layout can be done with an accurate framing square.

As it stands now, it looks like the tapped horn will require 14 boards. Of these, 12 will be the same width (and could be pre-cut at the lumber yard if needed). One of these 12 will have a driver hole cut or routed through it, another has a cutout for the access panel, the rest are simply rectangles that are cut to fit and glued and screwed or nailed into place.
 
Read up the Danley DTS-10 kit builds on AVS:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1189404

Same with THT over there, which is scratch-built from plans.

And Lab12 on ProSoundWeb.

Once this design is finalized, the build will not be difficult, and there are ways to simplify that process, such as a cut list and drill/assembly template.... :yes:
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom