AU-317 running warm?

[vigman]

Welcome to the next evolution~

 

[h3ll0]

Welcome to the next evolution~

I don't get it, are you referring to the next generation of audiophiles?

 

[stereofun]

My respect to you! - most your age, have no interest in good sounding gear. I call them the ipod generation - its a shame, but their interactions with great sound reproduction is mostly limited to compressed digital formats from handheld devices, ear phones, or cheap department store sets.

At least you signed up for AK, are asking questions, and are ready to learn. And we are ready to help. Kudos for trying.

 

[vigman]

What I meant was .. Your 16, and just opening your ears to " quality sound" now your going take an ACTIVE role in learning about & doing something about making it better..

My two were 22 till they went OH WOW, this IS better ( First listen to my prototype 70 watt per channel tube amp ).....

 

[h3ll0]

My respect to you! - most your age, have no interest in good sounding gear. I call them the ipod generation - its a shame, but their interactions with great sound reproduction is mostly limited to compressed digital formats from handheld devices, ear phones, or cheap department store sets.

At least you signed up for AK, are asking questions, and are ready to learn. And we are ready to help. Kudos for trying.

The reason I'm into Hi-Fi is because my Dad had a kickass sound system with a harmon kardon receiver, technics SL 1200 MK2,A pair of floorstanding speakers, and ceiling mounted NHT Superzero's as surrounds and when I was little I use to dance to earth wind and fire on full blast.

I wanted a good Hi-Fi system because I'm consistently listening to music (over 10,000 songs) and don't want to wear headphones 24/7 in order to get good sound quality.

I have also built my own computer and I guess I'll get into fixing my receiver now. Now I just need to learn how to solder :scratch2:

Also for the capacitor that vigman pointed out is leaking do I need to replace the glue or just solder? And what kind of solder and iron would I need?

 

[Karl vd Berg]

I found a place in town (wytek) that stock some the caps I want to replace at the moment.

So I put 6X 470uF 63V caps and 2x 2.7K 2 watt resistor on hold for a total of $9. Going there tomorrow to check it out.

(...)

Now I just need to learn how to solder :scratch2:

Also for the capacitor that vigman pointed out is leaking do I need to replace the glue or just solder? And what kind of solder and iron would I need?

You don't have to be obsessed with that capacitor, lol

Just put the 6x 470uF caps, adjust the bias and enjoy your amp.

And I believe it's only one 2.7k rated 2 watts resistor in the AU-317. During my first AU-317 restoration attempt I put a 2.7k rated 5 watts..

http://audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=401072&d=1357658830

And for your first tools, you need a common DMM (don't buy a Fluke for now), a common soldering iron, some commom solder and desoldering pump.

I don't want to fill your head with a lot of info at once, but you can proceed slowly, and don't have to do everything tomorrow same.

Soldering tutorial: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYz5nIHH0iY

Just ask for more info and folks here will come to help you.

..

 

[h3ll0]

You don't have to be obsessed with that capacitor, lol

Just put the 6x 470uF caps, adjust the bias and enjoy your amp.

And I believe it's only one 2.7k rated 2 watts resistor in the AU-317. During my first AU-317 restoration attempt I put a 2.7k rated 5 watts..

http://audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=401072&d=1357658830

And for your first tools, you need a common DMM (don't buy a Fluke for now), a common soldering iron, some commom solder and desoldering pump.

I don't want to fill your head with a lot of info at once, but you can proceed slowly, and don't have to do everything tomorrow same.

Soldering tutorial: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYz5nIHH0iY

Just ask for more info and folks here will come to help you.

..

I know I don't need two resistors but they only come in packages of two at the place im buying them. Maybe I'll ask if I can just have one. Thanks for all the help so far guys I really appreciate it.

Should I get some 2.2k ohms Vari. Resistors for the bias too?

Would the 63V 470uF caps work with all the other components as the ones on the board right now are 50V?

would this work?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/a...digital-multimeter-0251031p.html#.U3_9NfldVfx

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-30w-pistol-iron-0586310p.html#.U3_9w_ldVfw

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/tools...gsAndReviews&utm_content=Default#.U3__avldVfw

 

[Karl vd Berg]

I know I don't need two resistors but they only come in packages of two at the place im buying them. Maybe I'll ask if I can just have one. Thanks for all the help so far guys I really appreciate it.

Should I get some 2.2k ohms Vari. Resistors for the bias too?

would this work?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/a...digital-multimeter-0251031p.html#.U3_9NfldVfx

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-30w-pistol-iron-0586310p.html#.U3_9w_ldVfw

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/tools...gsAndReviews&utm_content=Default#.U3__avldVfw

Normally the old trim pots (variable resistors or VR) used for bias are replaced with more precise 20 (or 25 and even 28) turns VRs. That's why they are called multi-turn VRs. In AUD101's board, you have good VRs.

You have to be carefull while replacing these VRs, because if you don't know their preset value (or turn it completely anti clockwise before soldering) you risk to have all your power transistors cooking and smoking in your room.

For your first tools I'll leave the answer with someone here in your area (BC) because he/she might give you good tips.

 

[whoaru99]

Incredible. What a train wreck.

 

[h3ll0]

Incredible. What a train wreck.

You are post 69 lol.

 

[h3ll0]

Normally the old trim pots (variable resistors or VR) used for bias are replaced with more precise 20 (or 25 and even 28) turns VRs. That's why they are called multi-turn VRs. In AUD101's board, you have good VRs.

You have to be carefull while replacing these VRs, because if you don't know their preset value (or turn it completely anti clockwise before soldering) you risk to have all your power transistors cooking and smoking in your room.

For your first tools I'll leave the answer with someone here in your area (BC) because he/she might give you good tips.

So I should just leave them alone?

 

[whoaru99]

You are post 69 lol.

Just lucky, I guess.

 

[Karl vd Berg]

Lol

So I should just leave them alone?

I'd leave them alone for now.

 

[h3ll0]

Lol


I'd leave them alone for now.

So are the 63V 470uF caps compatible with everything else on the board as the caps that are in there now are 50V 470uF?

 

[whoaru99]

Higher voltage is fine. The only concern is if they fit.

Generally in your favor is that higher voltage caps today are typically same/smaller physical size than equivalent capacitance but lower voltage values of yesteryear.

 

[h3ll0]

Higher voltage is fine. The only concern is if they fit.

Generally in your favor is that higher voltage caps today are typically same/smaller physical size than equivalent capacitance but lower voltage values of yesteryear.

Thanks well I should be all set I'll replace those caps and when I have more money I'll do a full recap with some help and make a thread about it.

 

[whoaru99]

It takes a little bit more research, but it's not a bad idea to check lead spacing of the caps you have vs. what you're considering for purchase.

 

[roger2]

So are the 63V 470uF caps compatible with everything else on the board as the caps that are in there now are 50V 470uF?

The voltage ratings on capacitors indicate maximum working voltage that the cap is able to handle. It is acceptable for replacement caps to have a higher voltage rating than the originals, but not lower.

 

[Karl vd Berg]

As roger2 and whoaru99 said on higher voltage ratings (safer), modern capacitors and fitting dimentions, a couple of pictures here from a previous recap.

Newer caps (2012) at left. Older ones (1976) at right.

Same size, diameter and capacitance - 10uF -, but the newer cap at right is 4 times voltage rated than the older at left.

So, don't worry if your new 63V 470uF caps appear "smaller" than original 50V ones... Pay attention with polarity though.

 

[vigman]

See LOOK at all the cool stuff your learning......!! and all REALLY good advise...
As you master skills.. things get easier...

Mike