AU-X1

[Ronito6]

Oh yeah...I remember those pictures at http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/g9000.693759/

Still outrages me.

 

[Willy6]

Oh yeah...I remember those pictures at http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/g9000.693759/

Still outrages me.

Ya kinda pissed me off too.. but everything turned out good for me and the guy who sold it to me as well..I was refunded most of my money and was able to hang onto the reciever and though not a total restore I put alot of new parts in it and it's an awesome sounding machine now...

 

[Ronito6]

Woops...accidental repost

 

[Willy6]

Woops...accidental repost

My phone posts don't always go through before I repost sorry..

 

[Willy6]

F-2819 recapped

 

[Willy6]

Ron is the relay on F-2774 the same as the ones on F-2772?one says p20 and the other just says p

 

[Ronito6]

It's the same. Changing that one is optional. It lives a very easy life.

Trimmers...
Seems the access to your trimmers on the 2819 board may be blocked by the mounting plate.

However, I have seen one other X1 restoration use the same trimmers installed the same way BUT holes were drilled into the mounting plate to create access ports to / for the trimmer controls.

 

[Hyperion]

Sorry I didn't post a picture of how I did mine.

I used 'top adjust' trimmers, and mounted them on the track side of the board.

That way you can adjust them with just the regulated PSU cover removed.

Although in truth, much better access to the measuring points is available with the outer front panel removed. However, if you have long mini-grabbers this should not be an issue.

 

[Ronito6]

Good idea! I did the same.

I found that the leads on those Bourns multi turn trimpots to be too flexible. The darn components kept bending away when I made adjustments. So I just opted for the same single turn type that Amp8 used on his X1 restorations.

I suppose I could have just glued them into behaving.

 

[Hyperion]

I mounted mine pretty 'snug' to the PCB sensing that long lead lengths would result in that 'bending around' behaviour while adjusting, they are still a little sensitive but if one is careful no problem.

 

[Willy6]

Board F-2778 is about a pain in the you know what..Worked on it for 4 hours today and only got it half done. The glue they slathered on all the caps is tough to remove and my hakko fr-300 sucked a few pads loose..

 

[Ronito6]

Willy...How are you removing the glue?

• Apply lacquer thinner.
  
• Enclose the board in a garbage bag for about an hour
• The stuff just peals away. Easy...peezy.

Tacking down those lifted pads is do-able too.

I use high temperature JB Weld epoxy,

Just use some alcohol to make sure the area under the pad is clean.
Scrape the area under the pad carefully to both better clean the area and add some roughness to the area.

• Use a tooth pick or needle to apply the epoxy to the area under the lifted pad.
• Then use a hunk of pink or white rubber eraser that is wide enough to cover the pad.
• Clamp down the eraser/pad...somehow. (I use surgical clamps. But anything that will apply good pressure to the spot will do.)
  
• Then wait overnight.
• In the morning, remove the clamps and very gently the eraser. You should find the pad re-anchored.
• FINALLY...Scrape away any eraser stuck to the pad.

The pad should be serviceable and function NEAR ENOUGH as before it was lifted. Magic!

Tricky...yet magic.

 

[Ronito6]

Finally, regarding the glue after lacquer thinner...

Wood scrapers should leave the silk screen undamaged.

 

[Willy6]

Willy...How are you removing the glue?

• Apply lacquer thinner.
  
• Enclose the board in a garbage for about an hour
• The stuff just peals away. Easy...peezy.

Tacking down those lifted pads is do-able too.

I use high temperature JB Weld epoxy,

Just use some alcohol to make sure the area under the pad is clean.
Scrape the area under the pad carefully to both better clean the area and add some roughness to the area.

• Use a tooth pick or needle to apply the epoxy to the area under the lifted pad.
• Then use a hunk of pink or white rubber eraser that is wide enough to cover the pad.
• Clamp down the eraser/pad...somehow. (I use surgical clamps. But anything that will apply good pressure to the spot will do.)
  
• Then wait overnight.
• In the morning remove the clamps and eraser. You should find the pad re-anchored.
• FINALLY...Scrape away any eraser stuck to the pad.

The pad should be serviceable and function NEAR ENOUGH as before it was lifted. Magic!

Tricky...yet magic.

First I removed all of the components from that side and I applied lacquer thinner with a Q tip and then scraped the glue off with a popsicle stick but had to do that process about 3 times because the glue was really hard and thick

 

[Willy6]

First I removed all of the components from that side and I applied lacquer thinner with a Q tip and then scraped the glue off with a popsicle stick but had to do that process about 3 times because the glue was really hard and thick

And then I checked all the resistors and transistors and soldered everything back in took me about 4 hours

 

[Hyperion]

Well done Willy.

 

[JOMARK911]

Well done my man. Well done.

 

[Willy6]

Well done Willy.

John I overlooked a few capacitors on F-2778 c37,38,39,40 and they are 10uf 25v my question is would you use a 10uf 50v there?that's all I have.

 

[Leestereo]

No problem using 10µF 50V to replace 10µF 25V.

 

[Willy6]

Well done Willy.

Another capacitor question is what is the middle terminal on these caps for?and what does the e stand for ?