AU-X1
- Thread starter Willy6
- Start date
I Can't believe I had it going then I thought nope not right and then tore the transformer back out and almost used it for an anchor on my boat...
When I pulled the red lead and the 100W bulb went dim and the soft start relay clicked and all the front panel lights lit up I honestly had it in my head that the toroidal transformer was bad and the little square 100v transformer turned everything on...I Can't believe I had it going then I thought nope not right and then tore the transformer back out and almost used it for an anchor on my boat...
This amp is the first two transformer amp I've delt with and as Kale mentioned I NEED to look at and Learn schematics something I myself know is challenging for me since my eye sight isn't what it used to be..
Well, it was a surprise for me too, that you actually took out the toroidal transformer having had those results. 
Regarding the transformer change, I believe Ron and Myself warned you about the complexities of not only the AU-X1 - but also of facing yourself with a transformer/voltage change as well...
There are no 'step-by-step-how-to's' on this, for a lot of it you are on your own... one mistake and it can be game over.
Regarding the transformer change, I believe Ron and Myself warned you about the complexities of not only the AU-X1 - but also of facing yourself with a transformer/voltage change as well...
There are no 'step-by-step-how-to's' on this, for a lot of it you are on your own... one mistake and it can be game over.
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Not really game over John things Can be fixed with $ and this x1 Will see the Light. .Well, it was a surprise for me too, that you actually took out the toroidal transformer having had those results.
Regarding the transformer change, I believe Ron and Myself warned you about the complexities of not only the AU-X1 - but also of facing yourself with a transformer/voltage change as well...
There are no 'step-by-step-how-to's' on this, for a lot of it you are on your own... one mistake and it can be game over.
Game over to me is when the Seattle Seahawks run the opposing team into the ground which IS on the Horizon
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Sorry couldn't resist throwing that out thereGame over to me is when the Seattle Seahawks run the opposing team into the ground which IS on the Horizon
Ronito6
Super Member
Ah...Oh Willy!
Step away from it and relax. Return to the project with a clearer head.
In the mean time you might wish to Google as much as you can about other restorations.
I can't help but think you are actually very close to getting it right and that your problem will turn out to be a very simple answer.
Otherwise...Dig into the machine and look for physical mistakes.
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Ronito6
Super Member
Your pics show the hFe of the mystery OP to be 95.
The hFe of the stock OP is between 30 and 200.
So whatever you got there, as far as those mystery OPs go, looks OK to me as its near dead center of those values.
Ronito6
Super Member
Please forgive me John I had a little to much to drink last night.I really do appreciate all of your help on this project.Somewhat lost on me, but I get where you are coming from
I have the sacrificial Mj21194g and 93g's in there right now and when I get the thing dialed in I'll put the sanken LP,LN 200's that I bought from Kale in there.I was just trying to figure out what those mystery transistors are.Also I only need 3 of the sanken 2SC2493's to make another complete set so I'll be keeping my eyes open for some of those.
No problem at all Willy, what I meant was that I have no interest in English football, let alone American.
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I was looking things over on board f-2781 of the parts unit in relationship with the schematic and I think the previous owner had it wired for 220v there are a few things I need to change around and It should work..No problem at all Willy, what I meant was that I have no interest in English football, let alone American.
Ronito6
Super Member
A couple of other perhaps remote possibilities.
Has trace continuity been done / tried?
I remember seeing some pics of lifted pads in the course of this thread and perhaps a connection has been lost somewhere?
Also, there is a pair of styrene capacitors in series between the output transistor rails. Could frying those possibly cause the issues Mr. W is experiencing?
(Kale always changes those styrene pairs out BTW.)
Styrene capacitors are very heat sensitive, and when soldering is occurring near them they should have heat shunts clipped to their leads to protect them from soldering iron heat.
Soooo...maybe one of those possibilities?
Has trace continuity been done / tried?
I remember seeing some pics of lifted pads in the course of this thread and perhaps a connection has been lost somewhere?
Also, there is a pair of styrene capacitors in series between the output transistor rails. Could frying those possibly cause the issues Mr. W is experiencing?
(Kale always changes those styrene pairs out BTW.)
Styrene capacitors are very heat sensitive, and when soldering is occurring near them they should have heat shunts clipped to their leads to protect them from soldering iron heat.
Soooo...maybe one of those possibilities?
Ronito6
Super Member
I actually wondered about that too.
They also have jumper wires on the adjustable plug and the schematic shows none
